Originally Posted by mostlygold
That is the purpose of the the WW with the extra rings ...to build team work and convince the dog to go where sent....I have had some people that just couldn't get themselves to a state of perfection to do the extra rings..It wasn't the dogs couldn't do it, the handler wasn't exact enough to communicate with the dog ...Steve S
Well we worked on it for quite some time. I trained 5 previous dogs and had no trouble working with them and getting them to understand what was wanted. She just seemed to get more bugging/confused the more we worked at it. I have to think there are some things each dog is very good at and some things they struggle with, just like people. She went through T, TT and swim bye with no problems and those lessons stayed with her well. She understood pattern blinds and handling came very easily to her.
If there is any correlation, she gets nervous with tight lines on marks also. Possibly a confidence issue and I do a lot of singles or single/double combinations with her to work through the tight line nervousness. She has gotten much better in the past year and her confidence levels this year are better.
Dawn you obviously have trained a few dogs past the JR level and have trained one that just doesn't fit the round hole peg and making widgets that your other dogs have. Presently I have one of those I am training now, I understand.
My training partner has a very nice QAA dog with a couple of MH passes. He has the tendency as you have described.
What we have done isn't really a drill but has helped. He uses remote dummy machines (Max thrower) quite often, a lot when the dog in the derby. On the machines he is perfect, blinds under the arc, diversions etc. On double blinds he flares. We started using bird techs. (17 year old grandson with a terrific arm) and doing under the arc blinds, sometimes a poison bird, sometimes pick up mark do blind, some times double blind, under arc, outside the thrower. We have set up a quad, two or three machines, a person or two throwing, shot a flyer, do ABC drill, under arc of flyer, then on the outside. It seems to help with a person standing, as you do blinds. As Steve indicated the W drill is good too. I have done a short blind 25 yards, then a blind over the top pf the picked up short blind, driving another 200 yards plus.
I have also set up a permanent land blind 300 to 400 yards run it the entire life of the dog, sometimes only a few times a year, all kinds of wind, no real factors of land just flat. Helps with a dog that gets lax on it's land blinds. Hope some of this helps no quick fixes, as you already know. Advanced work is tough progress is measured in months or even years.
Thanks to everyone who responded
Many good suggestions, especially the multi throwers (ABCD) drills and W drill. Another note regarding this dog. She was absolutely hell to FF. It was a fight from the beginning and she is really not a tough dog. I had never dealt with this amount of avoidance prior in a dog. Once we got through the FF, all else seemed to flow seamlessly along until we hit wagon wheel drill. Due to my work schedule, I do most of my training alone with either walk out throws or using BB and Gunners Up electronic throwers. I also started doing a "key relationship" drill with her involving 1 thrower and 2 blinds, one tight behind the gun and one under the arc of the throw. I do this 3-4 times a week in different combinations (throw mark, pickup mark, run blinds; run one blind, throw mark, pick up then run other blind or throw mark and use as poison bird in any combination with the blinds). The mark is short maybe 50-75 yds, the blinds are 200 + yards. This has helped on many levels.
Thanks for starting this thread.....learned alot from you and the posters!
Lining on the wagon wheel
Your welcome Chris
There are always good suggestions and it keeps me thinking about new ways to approach the problem.