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Thread: Single Bark when leaving line on blinds

  1. #11
    Senior Member John Robinson's Avatar
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    In your case I would take all the line fussing out of the equation. Make sure you use a holding blind while training. Walk from the holding blind to the line already lined up, say sit, dead bird and back. These high momentum dogs are usually pretty good at lining out there if you sit them with their head and spine lined up correctly. If he goes off Lind, handle from there.

    After a while he will get used to running blinds a may relax a bit. Your instincts are correct, this is anxiety related to all the fussing trying to get that perfect line.
    Last edited by John Robinson; 10-21-2013 at 11:36 AM.

  2. #12
    Senior Member 2tall's Avatar
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    I agree 100% with John. I have a dog like this and what works best is to bust him out of the chute without fussing. Then handle for any variations from the line, and you have the opportunity for corrections that will make a far bigger impression on the dog. He doesn't like being stopped or corrected, so he settles down at the line and pays attention when I line him up. If you try to "wait him out" on blinds, he is just going to think he is looking the wrong way and start fidgeting and worrying more.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member Mary Lynn Metras's Avatar
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    I think I would recall still if it is a blind. You want to let him know barking is not in the game. I like the ideas about less fuss, less pressure and what about doing shorter easier blinds and no collar pressure.
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  4. #14
    Senior Member Howard N's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mary Lynn Metras View Post
    I think I would recall still if it is a blind. You want to let him know barking is not in the game. I like the ideas about less fuss, less pressure and what about doing shorter easier blinds and no collar pressure.
    Mary Lynn, what would you do if/when he barked on the way out, then popped or came back on his own?
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  5. #15
    Senior Member John Robinson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mary Lynn Metras View Post
    I think I would recall still if it is a blind. You want to let him know barking is not in the game. I like the ideas about less fuss, less pressure and what about doing shorter easier blinds and no collar pressure.
    How are you going to communicate to the dog, that he was recalled because he barked once on the send? Don't forget the spinning issue, that is commonly related to popping because the dog isn't sure he's going as sent or is anticipating being stopped and recalled.

  6. #16
    Senior Member Scott Adams's Avatar
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    There is a differance between dealing with an issue in a drill setting and dealing with the same issue in the field.
    If you recall, and resend, you put more stress into the situation. You will have to fuss again to reset. All this time & fussing makes matters worse.
    I think if you stop them at the point of infraction, and deal with it there, you will be better off.
    In a cold blind situation I would kick them off with no fussing at all. Who cares how good their IL is here. Just go and don't spin or bark.
    Handle after at least 1/3 of the distance is covered.
    Some dogs can be fussed with and be mostly unaffected. They are the exception.
    Last edited by Scott Adams; 10-21-2013 at 12:57 PM.
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  7. #17
    Senior Member Purpledawg's Avatar
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    IMHO Stop running blinds and fix it at the root. Not knowing how he went thru his yard work just ideas, The bark, or turning head back complaining about the force way back at force fetch, or back to the pile, spin a pressure reaction, nerves, hesitancy, wilefulness and as you mention a bit of go to H-LL, as you said you doubt you can't recall for short blind why not here means here. A Spin is a hard one to solve and most pros wash it as a too serious problem to spend the time to do such. I'd say step back fill the holes if he had some in force fetch, walking fetch, stick fetch, and find where this first surfaced fix it and then move back up thru the steps to where you are now so he understands its not a matter he has a choice on to do or not.

  8. #18
    Senior Member Mary Lynn Metras's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mary Lynn Metras View Post
    I think I would recall still if it is a blind. You want to let him know barking is not in the game. I like the ideas about less fuss, less pressure and what about doing shorter easier blinds and no collar pressure.
    I am thinking right at the time he barks stop no bark and call him in. I don't think I would let him go on??? Totally wrong maybe??? Tell me another way. I agree with all the no fussing but that stopping the dog for barking is not fussing it is dealing with an issue. I think there is more to it than I am understanding let us say.IMO
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  9. #19
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    Seen a bad one at barking and spinning stop doing it with a few hard and well timed burn and "back!!!" start to make progress. Also have seen it make another worse. Good luck as always im little help and use on RTF. I never say never and rarely post advice unless it had to do with ponds or my favorite alcohol.

  10. #20
    Senior Member DarrinGreene's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Beil View Post
    It is a full on bark, not just a yelp. He also will do it the first time, and then maybe the second time, but if I run more blinds that day it seems to get better/go away, unless more pressure is involved. Pressure in this case being a long time lining up, or recalling him for a bad initial line. He kicks up dirt on the way out on blinds like he does on marks.

    He only spins when he's especially amped up. He spins and barks - like saying bleep you, it's about time you let me go.
    You answered your own question.

    Step into the blind three or four steps so he's lined up correctly and launch him. Deal with the initial line if it's off. Handle with attrition only (except go, stop come) and see what happens.

    Don't frustrate him so much. See what happens.
    Darrin Greene

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