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Thread: Keeping dog steady and in place on hunts

  1. #1
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    Default Keeping dog steady and in place on hunts

    I have a YLM that is breaking on the shot during hunting and also crowding me when we're hunkered down waiting for birds, so hopefully posting here will help me kill 2 birds with 1 stone. He is 1/2 way through MH tests, so he does well in training and tests (usually ), but hunting with him is turning into a pain.

    Problem - 1A
    He'll break on the shot, and sometimes on me or anyone nearby shouldering. I've tried (tried, real hard) not shooting and letting others shoot, and there is progress there, but the moment I shoot, we're back to breaking. I thought of giving the controller to someone else, but not sure how eager another hunter will be to interrupt their hunt and let me hunt. Plus, I hunt by myself sometimes, so still need a better solution.

    Problem - 1B
    In the field, we typically hunt from the back side of a levee or ditch, and occasionally a blind. He loves to lay right up against me, or even worse right above me on the levee. He's good in that he'll sit/lay quietly the whole time, but its not fun having a wet dog laying on me for a couple hours. I've tried picking him up and moving him away (usually restricted to just 2-3 feet away), but he keeps slowly crawling back to me. Any collar correction, because of the close proximity, just makes him rush towards me instead of sticking in place.

    Problem - 2 thru infinity - his owner

    I'd like to use possibly a mat or platform that could work in low-profile places like a rice field and/or adjust to deeper flooded fields, if any exist. I've also thought of a dog blind, but wonder how they work for passing birds that come in from all angles some mornings. I know staking him out, some believe leads to him honoring the stake and not me, but was thinking I could use the stake as backup and "punishment" for breaking if he's off the stake, by clipping him back up once he breaks, and not letting him get the next few birds. I just wonder if these tools help to correct the problem or avoid the problem, and so I'd have to use a platform or blind every time I hunt him?

    Any tips, would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Ken Bora's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flywheel View Post
    I know staking him out, some believe leads to him honoring the stake and not me, but was thinking I could use the stake as backup and "punishment" for breaking if he's off the stake, by clipping him back up once he breaks,.
    why wait until he breaks?
    the joy of the rope is he, like you, is able to relax!
    enjoy the hunt
    "So what is big is not always the Trout nor the Deer but the chance, the being there. And what is full is not necessarily the creel nor the freezer, but the memory." ~ Aldo Leopold

    "The Greatest Obstacle to Discovery is not Ignorance -- It is the Illusion of Knowledge" ~ Daniel Boorstin

  3. #3
    Senior Member yellow machine's Avatar
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    Do you practice with an ecollar? Do you have an ecollar on the dog hunting?
    A cold nose feels good on a hot day.....
    Majestic Oaks Liberty Belle JH

  4. #4
    Senior Member Gary Southall's Avatar
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    I agree with Ken. They made rope for a reason. I'm guessing he is a young dog being he is 1/2 way through his Masters Title. I don't think you should let him break and then try to correct that, stop the breaking and if it takes rope then use it. If it takes rope and a E-collar then use that.

  5. #5
    Senior Member HNTFSH's Avatar
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    I've no shame staking my young dog in this first season. For lots of reasons, especially 4-6 hours in the ground blind (which is pretty big). He did decide to chew through the rope quietly.

    Then after I tied the two ends together he untied the knot.

    Now it's a light chain.

    Not sure how old/how many hunts your dog has been on but I don't count on a blind veteran dog till about 3 years or two full seasons. Especially running Roosters one day and hunting ducks the next. Doesn't mean they can't be stellar test dogs before then though.
    We shoot dogs with a Canon

  6. #6
    Senior Member jd6400's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flywheel View Post
    I have a YLM that is breaking on the shot during hunting and also crowding me when we're hunkered down waiting for birds, so hopefully posting here will help me kill 2 birds with 1 stone. He is 1/2 way through MH tests, so he does well in training and tests (usually ), but hunting with him is turning into a pain.

    Problem - 1A
    He'll break on the shot, and sometimes on me or anyone nearby shouldering. I've tried (tried, real hard) not shooting and letting others shoot, and there is progress there, but the moment I shoot, we're back to breaking. I thought of giving the controller to someone else, but not sure how eager another hunter will be to interrupt their hunt and let me hunt. Plus, I hunt by myself sometimes, so still need a better solution.

    Problem - 1B
    In the field, we typically hunt from the back side of a levee or ditch, and occasionally a blind. He loves to lay right up against me, or even worse right above me on the levee. He's good in that he'll sit/lay quietly the whole time, but its not fun having a wet dog laying on me for a couple hours. I've tried picking him up and moving him away (usually restricted to just 2-3 feet away), but he keeps slowly crawling back to me. Any collar correction, because of the close proximity, just makes him rush towards me instead of sticking in place.

    Problem - 2 thru infinity - his owner

    I'd like to use possibly a mat or platform that could work in low-profile places like a rice field and/or adjust to deeper flooded fields, if any exist. I've also thought of a dog blind, but wonder how they work for passing birds that come in from all angles some mornings. I know staking him out, some believe leads to him honoring the stake and not me, but was thinking I could use the stake as backup and "punishment" for breaking if he's off the stake, by clipping him back up once he breaks, and not letting him get the next few birds. I just wonder if these tools help to correct the problem or avoid the problem, and so I'd have to use a platform or blind every time I hunt him?

    Any tips, would be greatly appreciated.
    Flywheel,if you want a well behaved dog and steady you should be prepared to put your gun down for this season and let your buddies shoot and you make corrections when needed.If your consistent (which 95% owners aren`t) and get plenty of exposure for your animal by the end of this season he should fine.

    Be prepared next season to repeat process for a few hunts and you should be good to go.But always be prepared to go back.CONSISTENCY is the key.What you have explained is the norm and it`s like pulling teeth tryin to get OWNERS TO LISTEN.

    Tim Doane put a video up of a dog he sold to a client awhile back......My reply was "looks like you got a good client"...That dog was a rock,and I know damn well the owner had done alot to keep him that way.

    I truly believe that tying him up is going to TEACH him anything.But collar correction to "sit will. Good luck.Jim
    Jim Weitzel
    Proud member of Ole Roy prostaff

  7. #7
    Senior Member Brettttka's Avatar
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    tie him up or put a slip lead on him and stand on one end. My dog is steady as can be but the first few shots in the morning he wants to break as soon as the guns go off.
    Lone Oak's Marley Man.. (My first)

  8. #8
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    RULE 1. You train to go hunting ! You do not go hunting to train. This pisses people off and lessens your chances to be invited back! A dog must be solid in everything to be in a blind or boat.
    2. If you are not willing to tie your dog to a stake or forsake shooting while others do to control your dog, then the dog is not ready to go hunting.
    3. You alone are responsible for your dogs actions, manners, etc.. Everybody wants to hunt with their dog, but there are times when everybody can not take their dogs. KNOW when it is your time to not take your dog.
    JB

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Brown View Post
    RULE 1. You train to go hunting ! You do not go hunting to train. This pisses people off and lessens your chances to be invited back! A dog must be solid in everything to be in a blind or boat.
    2. If you are not willing to tie your dog to a stake or forsake shooting while others do to control your dog, then the dog is not ready to go hunting.
    3. You alone are responsible for your dogs actions, manners, etc.. Everybody wants to hunt with their dog, but there are times when everybody can not take their dogs. KNOW when it is your time to not take your dog.
    JB
    What he said!!

  10. #10
    Senior Member HNTFSH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jd6400 View Post
    Flywheel,if you want a well behaved dog and steady you should be prepared to put your gun down for this season and let your buddies shoot and you make corrections when needed.If your consistent (which 95% owners aren`t) and get plenty of exposure for your animal by the end of this season he should fine.

    Be prepared next season to repeat process for a few hunts and you should be good to go.But always be prepared to go back.CONSISTENCY is the key.What you have explained is the norm and it`s like pulling teeth tryin to get OWNERS TO LISTEN.

    Tim Doane put a video up of a dog he sold to a client awhile back......My reply was "looks like you got a good client"...That dog was a rock,and I know damn well the owner had done alot to keep him that way.

    I truly believe that tying him up is going to TEACH him anything.But collar correction to "sit will. Good luck.Jim
    Jim, largely agree but then I've seen dogs that break only when the handler shoots. Then there's the guys that mostly hunt alone.

    I do think more handler shot flyers in training helps. As does NOT allowing the dog to break hunting by sequester. Putting the gun down early in the dogs career is a good idea, but an entire season seems unrealistic. Particularly for a shot breaking issue. And I sure has heck don't want a dog nestled up to me the whole hunt either.

    Learning the 'game' in the blind is as important as learning to be steady IMO.
    We shoot dogs with a Canon

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