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Thread: Choke size for flyers

  1. #21
    Senior Member Joe Brakke's Avatar
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    The more open the better, you do not want to destroy the birds because they should be reused for the test or other training days. When we get the ol' hunter guy out there shooting flyers at a test, we always need to re-choke them because the birds are coming back with the guts hanging, heads gone or in pieces. They still have last seasons goose choke in. I've seen a hole punched straight through the bird just under the wings, a 4 inch gap between the wings and feet.
    Last edited by Joe Brakke; 02-11-2014 at 03:12 PM.
    Joe B.

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  2. #22
    Senior Member Todd Caswell's Avatar
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    It is really amazing what a good thow does for a flyer bird. That throw makes all the difference in the world IMHO..
    More important than the shooter's in my opinion, I love throwing the flyer, I would rather do that than any other job.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Russ's Avatar
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    Steel is required by Federal law when shooting ducks, even pen raised mallards.

  4. #24
    Senior Member Golddogs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Caswell View Post
    More important than the shooter's in my opinion, I love throwing the flyer, I would rather do that than any other job.
    I have an opening for a bird thrower.

    I like it too. Was lucky enough to be taught by a very good LBT. I have been told I toss a nice bird. Hope I have a few more years left in the old arm.
    Never trust a dog to watch your food!

  5. #25
    Senior Member Golddogs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russ View Post
    Steel is required by Federal law when shooting ducks, even pen raised mallards.
    Funny how so many don't know that.
    Never trust a dog to watch your food!

  6. #26
    Senior Member Old School Labs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MooseGooser View Post
    Since everyone is just repeating each other.....
    I am going to ask a question for some tothink about.

    Why do most people get in such a hurry to shoot a flyer?

    I think it because of the throw!

    A weak throw, Like I deliver, encourages the bird to not fly that far, so many willhuryy the shot to hit it in the air and kill it. A very close shot results..

    It is really amazing what a good thow does for a flyer bird. That throw makes all the difference in the world IMHO..

    If the throw is good, and you have healthy strong birds, the distance from the gun, will be farther, considering an average shooter..
    You get what we all want! A flyer! A bird that flys some distance that the dog watches its path, and then works through the excitement and marks the fall..

    Many times, Flyers look the same as a dead bird station,because folks throw weak,, and shoot to fast..

    Get a good thrower, and while an open choke is still a good sugestion, I bet you will feel more comfortable with the second barrel being a bit more tight..

    Gooser
    I agree totally Mikey, we are fortunate to have my training partner John M to throw fliers. He makes hitting a flyer so much easier, even when you "Let 'em ride Robbie".

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  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Brakke View Post
    The more open the better, you do not want to destroy the birds because they should be reused for the test or other training days. When we get the ol' hunter guy out there shooting flyers at a test, we always need to re-choke them because the birds are coming back with the guts hanging, heads gone or in pieces. They still have last seasons goose choke in. I've seen a hole punched straight through the bird just under the wings, a 4 inch gap between the wings and feet.
    Yep, you know you're in trouble when the Judges have the flyer thrown into a stiff breeze and the gunners have their guns shouldered before the bird is in the air.

    When I gun at a test, we alternate; one person is the primary shooter and the other backs them up. We also try to let them fly a bit.

    If you are throwing birds from a winger, don't load the bird until the first bird is called for, unless the flyer is to be shot first. after about 45 seconds in a winger they start to suffocate as the pouch squeezes them tightly enough to keep them from breathing properly. Also, DO NOT tuck the head under a wing and DO load them on their back. This allows them to get their wings going much more quickly.

    I shoot a stack-barrel. SKEET on the bottom and MODIFIED on the top. The mod barrel is much more effective sluicing a cripple.-Paul
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  8. #28
    Senior Member MikeBoley's Avatar
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    not much need for anything more than a Skeet choke, unless Eddie Noga is throwing a hen phesant with the wind. In that case you could be shooting a very long shot. As others have said the throw makes all the difference. The birds of late have not been real good. You can throw a duck in the air but you cant make him fly.
    'I make my practices real hard because if a player is a quitter, I want him to quit in practice, not in a game.' - Bear Bryant / Alabama

  9. #29
    Senior Member archer66's Avatar
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    I do the vast majority of my actual duck hunting with a skeet choke.....I can't imagine why skeet wouldn't work for thrown birds. A tighter choke not only results in more damage to the bird but also might result in a miss at close range which I assume would be a bad thing in this scenario??

  10. #30
    Senior Member Micah Duffy's Avatar
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    Most of the clubs are now buying #7 to #9 steel shot for the licensed events around Idaho and Utah. I typically shoot a IC for first shot if weak thrower for pigeons or ducks. Then a skeet for a second if needed. If its really windy or shooting Cock pheasants I use a Modified. But as stated before a good throw helps out immensely.
    "if it flies it dies, then it fries"

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