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Thread: Puppy

  1. #11
    Senior Member Rick S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by okiereb View Post
    yes I was in the back yard. I put a 30 ft check cord but was worried about forcing her to early. Just watching videos on 12 week labs bringing it back had me frustrated because she has incredible bloodlines. I will keep it fun until 4 months then try to get more aggressive. thanks for the feedback.
    Stop comparing your progress to others!!! Your pup will progress in time. I'd suggest more casual exploring type walks to get the pup used to all the new sights and smells. Keep her excited to chase an object, thats a good start.

  2. #12
    Member okiereb's Avatar
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    Ok thanks rick! I just want the best lol. With the advice from here I will just keep doing what im doing and she should come around

  3. #13
    Senior Member Rick S's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by okiereb View Post
    Ok thanks rick! I just want the best lol. With the advice from here I will just keep doing what im doing and she should come around
    I was in a similar position a year ago with my young dog when he was about the same age. He'd retrieve like a mad man and then try to play keep away. What worked for me was short sessions of obedience, sit, heel, and here. Then I'd throw a few bumpers for him and when he started to play keep away, I'd immediately put the bumper away and go back to obedience work. It didn't take long for things to click, and he realized that he wouldn't get another bumper if he didn't bring it back. Keep up your standard on the "here" command, and it will come together. This is what worked for me. Good luck!

  4. #14
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    okiereb,

    I'd say your pup sounds like it is doing great! Don't look at pup not bringing the bumper back as a retrieving problem but a she just hasn't learned here yet. You don't want to be doing any formal obedience but it's never too early to start treat training obedience. 99.9% of pups are highly food driven so start working on sit and here with food rewards. Make your pup think that coming to you always means something good and its the greatest thing in the world. I don't think I'd treat while retrieving because most really young pups are more food motivated than retrieve motivated so they may end up ignoring the bumper or spitting it out etc. Work on them seperately.

    And remember, very short sessions for both OB and retrieving. I would normally say 4 or 5 retrieves max but it depends on the dog. Always leave the dog wanting more.

  5. #15

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    at 12 weeks its pretty normal to be easily distracted. I would not cut out go or training outside. At this point, socializing a pup is really important. like other posters said, take the pup out and show him good controlled new experiences. Especially other dogs and children. The instrict to retrieve is there and will be easier ot train when a little older.


    on a side note I also have always sorta messed/pet with my pup while he was eating and he has absolutely no food aggression now as adult.

  6. #16
    Member okiereb's Avatar
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    okay rick I just didn't know how far was to far to push a pup. dpate I have actually been doing sit and here with not really treats but with dog food. and she does it great. but its like outside is a whole new world. so im going to start my sit and here training outside. sounds like that could help a lot. straightsix, luckily I have a 2 year old son who gives her zero alone time. weather shes eating or just trying to sleep he is in her face tormenting her. I think he is doing a lot more good for me then he knows lol. we also go on a walk a day through town exposing to other dogs and cars and birds flying around. so sounds like I just need to wait and let it all click. im trying all of you alls suggestions and know they will work. I have been doing about 4 throws per session about 3 or 4 times a day. her tails wagging when I put the bumper up so guess that means shes having fun

  7. #17
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    Sounds like you're doing fine. When training obedience you'll want to gradually up the distraction level just like you're starting to do. First, in the hallway, then to the backyard, then maybe to a school yard or or baseball field, then with add in some kids playing close by, etc. etc. Don't be afraid to throw in some really high value rewards like hotdog pieces, liver, or whatever. I'm sure the dog likes his kibble but hotdogs or liver or something like that will make the reward of coming or sitting extra special to him.

  8. #18
    Member okiereb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpate View Post
    Sounds like you're doing fine. When training obedience you'll want to gradually up the distraction level just like you're starting to do. First, in the hallway, then to the backyard, then maybe to a school yard or or baseball field, then with add in some kids playing close by, etc. etc. Don't be afraid to throw in some really high value rewards like hotdog pieces, liver, or whatever. I'm sure the dog likes his kibble but hotdogs or liver or something like that will make the reward of coming or sitting extra special to him.
    okay thanks! I will try this and see if I cant get anywhere, hopefully get her excited outside like she is inside.

  9. #19
    Senior Member RookieTrainer's Avatar
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    One thing that might help you is to think of it not in terms of forcing the pup to do something, but not allowing the pup to do anything other than what it is supposed to. It's really all you can do at this point in the pup's development.

    You don't have anything taught to the pup at this point that you could really force, so all you are really doing is trying to shape habits. One thing that you may have been told to do is throw retrieves in the hallway at your house. The reason everybody tells you to do that with pups is that there is nowhere to go but back to you, ensuring that no bad habits get established and starting to condition the pup to the fact that delivery follows retrieve just like day follows night. I go get it, I come back to pops. Lather, rinse, repeat.

    With the check cord same thing. Gently reel pup in while using the "command" you are going to use (here or come, most likely), so that you never allow the pup to start a habit of not coming back to you with a retrieve. I put that in quotes because you won't have real commands until you start to formalize OB, which comes later.

    Sounds simple, I know, but I unwittingly allowed a couple bad habits with my first pup that I will be fighting until he draws his last breath. Better to keep them from ever getting started. Ask me how many objects I will allow my next pup to retrieve with any movement at the line.

    Good luck with your pup.
    Steve Wyatt

    HR Belle's Rolling Big Rig "Jimmy"

  10. #20
    Senior Member swampcollielover's Avatar
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    I have been where you are many times and I learned early on to listen to folks who know dogs and training. I also learned by reading and watching training CD's..Sound Beginnings by Jackie Mertens and Training a Retriever Puppy with Bill Hillmann...are what I use...but their are others. Also reading every thing I could find on training. Plus taking my pups to obedience classes when they were around 12wks. All of this taught me how little I knew and how important knowledge is when training your dog. You can mess up a dog and not realize you are doing it.....

    By the way, I would NEVER force a puppy to retrieve....way to young,

    Anyway, that's my $.02

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