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Thread: It's getting warm. Dog box air flow question.

  1. #21
    Senior Member rboudet's Avatar
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    I have an Ainley two hole with insulation and a Fan. I have never had the fan hooked up. There is no substitution for SHADE!

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewB View Post
    I hadn't give the battery separator a thought. Was the only reason to keep the deep cycle from drawing off the starting battery? If I hook the batter just to the alternator and ground could it still draw out of the starting battery through the alternator?
    I think it could (the wires will be touching the same post on the alternator...right?)

    Lots of folks like to use battery isolators (and/or some sort of solenoid system) to make sure they don't drain their starting battery. As I understand it, the isolators allow the alternator to charge 2 batteries, but function as sort of a one way valve that prevents the fan (and anything else that is hooked to the 2nd battery) from draining the starting battery.
    Stray labs make great pets.
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  3. #23
    Member teacher504's Avatar
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    More (or maybe just as) importantly...the insulation is key. I have a stainless topper (Deerskin) and even without the fan on, it stays cool in direct sunlight because of the 4 inches on top and 2 inches on the side. The fan hardly has to be used. In fact, I spoke to a local custom chassis mount builder who does NOT recommend fans because he goes through great lengths to insulate the top of the box and he questions why one would then go and cut a big hole on top. He firmly believes that the fan's hole (thus fan) sacrifice the insulation properties and advices against them.
    Bobby Baldwin
    Troy Creek Chesapeakes
    www.troycreekchesapeakes.com
    Fredericksburg, VA

  4. #24
    Member AndrewB's Avatar
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    Hey guys thanks for the awesome advice. I might just see how well it does without the fan. And if I decide later on I'll add a fan. I never given it any thought but it makes perfect since. Why take the time to put all the insulation when your just going to cut a big hole in the box. I can always do it later if I decide it is a necessity.

  5. #25
    Member teacher504's Avatar
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    I just installed a battery isolator on my truck to charge the deep-cell that runs lights, fans, etc. on my topper.
    Here's what I learned: you need the isolator to charge your battery, because you WILL drain your starting battery if you do not. There are four types of isolators: 1. A solenoid type (contacts and switches...will wear out in few years...inexpensive); 2. a pure isolator that looks like a box with heats fins; 3. a combo solenoid and micro-chip; 4. a total electronic type that is more of a micro processor. I went with #4 because it was about $70 online and was pretty simple to set-up. I went with Battery Doctor because it has an override switch that allows one to jump-start the main battery from your axillary battery in case you happen to drain your starting battery. I went with the 150 amp isolator because my alternator puts out 136 amps. You need to know how many amps your alternator puts out before choosing the correct isolator and then go with the isolator near or above that amperage. You'll also need an inline fuse or breaker. I got a 150 amp 12 volt breaker on eBay for $19...new at auto parts store it was close to $60. Lastly, you'll need 4 gauge stranded wire (get it from Lowes and make your own lengths). Good luck!
    Bobby Baldwin
    Troy Creek Chesapeakes
    www.troycreekchesapeakes.com
    Fredericksburg, VA

  6. #26
    Member AndrewB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by teacher504 View Post
    I just installed a battery isolator on my truck to charge the deep-cell that runs lights, fans, etc. on my topper.
    Here's what I learned: you need the isolator to charge your battery, because you WILL drain your starting battery if you do not. There are four types of isolators: 1. A solenoid type (contacts and switches...will wear out in few years...inexpensive); 2. a pure isolator that looks like a box with heats fins; 3. a combo solenoid and micro-chip; 4. a total electronic type that is more of a micro processor. I went with #4 because it was about $70 online and was pretty simple to set-up. I went with Battery Doctor because it has an override switch that allows one to jump-start the main battery from your axillary battery in case you happen to drain your starting battery. I went with the 150 amp isolator because my alternator puts out 136 amps. You need to know how many amps your alternator puts out before choosing the correct isolator and then go with the isolator near or above that amperage. You'll also need an inline fuse or breaker. I got a 150 amp 12 volt breaker on eBay for $19...new at auto parts store it was close to $60. Lastly, you'll need 4 gauge stranded wire (get it from Lowes and make your own lengths). Good luck!
    Hey! Thanks that helped a lot. I do still want hook it up that way to
    run "airing lights" and if I need to a portable fan I can just out on the doors to start with. Obviously if I do that I'll probably be adding a big fan. I should have my metal from the vender this week
    sometime. I think I will start a new thread and post pictures to update how's it coming along. Does any one have any ideas what kind of insulation would be the best?

  7. #27
    Senior Member suepuff's Avatar
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    I did something similar to what David did. I have a Yukon though and wire crates. I use three wire crates, soon to be four. I have these fans, hooked up to a deep cycle battery. I travel with a charger. The dog are alway cool.

    http://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-Ven...eywords=Rv+fan
    Sue Puffenbarger
    Wirtz, VA
    www.boynelabradors.com

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