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Pond Design Considerations

13K views 23 replies 18 participants last post by  Tim West 
#1 ·
Hello RTF,

I have been lurking and learning for a very long time with very few posts and no formal introduction.

I am currently training my first dog 5yo BLM. I train for hunting primarily but run the occasional HT. I am very active in Badger State HRC.

Now to the original point of the post.

I am looking for input with regards to the design of a 2-3 acre pond for retriever training and tests. Some questions I was asked and looking for input on are listed below:
  • Prefer more naturalist or squared off shape?
  • More open water or lots of islands and fingers?
  • Bank slope? 3:1? 2:1?
  • Minimum water width between fingers/islands?
  • What types of algae/weed control are typically done? What would make it easier?
  • Any simplistic amenities that would be useful?

Here are the images included with the questions.
Organism Adaptation Ecoregion Landscape Plant


Looking for opinions and reasons if possible.

Thanks for the assistance.
David
 
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#2 ·
Well, if you're looking at building a pond like that, the A number one, absolute key biggest most important thing is location. About 10 minutes from my house is clearly the best place to build something like that.
 
#3 · (Edited)
for hunt tests and duck hunting i'd probably go pond number 1. number 3 for AA and Q work in field trials. number 2 seems to give a little of both. Two biggest things to keep in mind A) remember that your pup will probably be doing at least 6-9 months of "non-cheaty" marks before you get to handling so you want to keep it simple in parts of it (no chance to cheat...straight in straight out) and B) I'd want at least double the land size surrounding the pond. so if your pond is 2 acres i'd want 4 acres of land to run from and around. nothing like taking your "water honest" dog and backing up 150-200 yards from the pond and watch that dog run the bank. "NO HERE!! scoot up re-run...repeat"

take some of that dirt from the pond and make mounds on all sides of the pond to run from an elevated platform so you can see the dog and adjust running location based on wind. Lardy has a great article in his third voulme of books about pond designs

me myself i'd take pond #2 if i had the money if i didnt #1 seems cheaper and easier to make and could probably get by with "my" needs

edit: i echo Jerry's comments...also need GPS coordinates of the 3 ponds in the picture

edit edit: nevermind i know exactly where pond #2 is and train there often :)
 
#6 ·
I started with 3 islands in mine, down to one now. Why? Got tired of cutting them with the weedeater. Now if I want I can get a tractor onto 2 of them to knock things back. I also have realized I have too much open water. Requires big swims to getin any re-entry concept training and such. But...I have access to ponds that compensate for that so it's not a deal killer. My next pond I'm working on is going to be more technical. I think you need a balance of both or access to different ponds that provide both.
 
#9 ·
Make sure points and islands are not so high that you loose sight of dog for too long. Keep swims on the shorter side but, have some areas/directions longer swims are possible. Looking at ponds that are currently used and thought of as being good training ponds will help.

Marilyn Fender is near Oshkosh and has built a number of ponds. She would be able to help you with some do's and don'ts.

Tom
 
#10 ·
And another thing to consider is entry and exit, you want space/land around the pond so you can do long water entries and exits, don't build in a corner!
 
#13 ·
Islands are a great feature but put them in a place you can throw a mark to them from a few areas( don't limit yourself). Probably the biggest thing is don't make it to busy( I think pond number was too busy) points just for the sake of having points. You would also like to have a few places to run channel marks and blinds with a run at the water, don't back yourself into a corner, less water with entry's and exits rather than the bird or bumper is always at the edge or in the water. Your points should be wide enough for a dog to make a decision on not get on and fall in the other side. Mounds to run from around the pond at different distances to the water. Last thing make sure your points are leveled so you can see the dog after he enters the other side.
You should probably draw it and look at the marks and blinds you can do on it and tweak it before you start to dig. Most amateurs( not bashing) design a pond for all the blinds they can do and never take into consideration about the marks.
 
#14 ·
I learned a lot about pond design from a friend who worked a backhoe and other heavy equipment in the design of the Ocean Course at Kiaweah Island and other courses for Dye designs...wouldnt even think about digging a pond without making a call to someone like Chad Baker who not only knows what he wants in a pond but actually digging one properly...goes a whole lot further than just moving some dirt
 
#15 ·
Funny, I've trained on and tested in pond #3. Small but technical. Endless amounts of set-ups, but I would have made the water about 1-2 acres bigger if able and like a previous poster said made the land strips wider to get equipment (truck/tractor/mower) on it.
 
#16 ·
Great thread.

I'm planning the same thing. I'm thinking of picking up a used bulldozer.....letting my father in law do it......then selling the bulldozer.

The costs of ponds is astronomical. I looked at a water skiing pond that awesome tech features. I asked how much to build that pond. My guy who build ponds said $500k-$1M. I asked another guy and he said $500K too. It's a really nice pond but come on.....
 
#21 ·
Great thread.

I'm planning the same thing. I'm thinking of picking up a used bulldozer.....letting my father in law do it......then selling the bulldozer.
A good plan unless the dozer breaks down then expect a hefty repair bill that might make you wish you had contracted the project. You will need to have a survey done or do one yourself to insure that the water level is below the spillway or pipe outlet and the obstacles, no small task for a do it yourself project unless you have experience in that area.
 
#23 ·
I know several people that have done same to clear brush, financially makes a lot of sense. Normally then they can work on them themselves, if not as Ed says it gets very expensive.
Even more important......make sure the bulldozer is in good condition and has some sort of cab to protect you if it rolls. Many people die every year just in Texas while digging out stock tanks with old dozers, last one I remember not much more than a stone throw from my house. Old dozer with no cab, rolled and no way you can do anything even if you are there. And this happens to experienced operators, engine stalls, brakes fail, dirt gives way......So if you do it yourself buy a good, safe bulldozer - cost a lot more but you will get it back after anyway - and then it is just down to luck about the maintenance cost.
 
#24 ·
Mike lardy told me that he doesnt want a training pond he can't do marks on. His has points, channels, etc but also enough open water to do marks on. None are huge swims.

I have one that is under one acre and has plenty of stuff do do everything from cheating singles to AA marks. No big swims though. I go to my big ponds for that. Mounds make the difference. You can't have enough of them. I would also try to make a bank in a gentle "C" that allow you to cast off what looks like a point to you but to a dog looks like land. Very tough concept to teach without it. Here is my little pond which has lots of land around it that you can't see here. Unfortunately this pic was taken recently by Google and shows the lack of water. My pond well died and I'm saving up to replace it. The depth is very shallow and I'm on a hill with little runoff. Aerial photography Geology Rock Photography Geological phenomenon
 
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