Half full water bottle, tied to a leg; enables the bird to flush, fly a bit, come back to earth and then get flushed again. I love this for quail as they can walk a bit and the dog has to hunt them. I keep a ring on the birds leg so I can clip on the bottle when I use them next time. With a soft mouth dog you can get several training sessions with a couple of birds. Duck we blind-fold them, then at the end of the session take the blind fold off, gets you work with cripple & divers.
Last edited by Hunt'EmUp; 07-09-2014 at 03:17 PM.
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We tie the wing together with flagging tape up close to the body of the bird. They can still flap but not fly
Those primaries will grow back in about a month, where clipped ones won't be replaced until late Summer's molt.
Best hooding arrangement I've found while pointing dog training is a dark baby sock on a string:
But I don't see that as useful for retriever training.
Something I do find useful with my flushing retrievers is pulling just the outer seven primaries, which will allow a strong bird to fly 100yds or so before landing.
Last edited by Rick Hall; 07-10-2014 at 05:43 AM.
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We have used tape on the wings, it can be cut off easily and the bird does not lose the use of the wings. If you use homers then just let it fly back to the coop.
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Thanks guys for all the help, just clipped primary feathers. Pup went nuts over, worked great and pigeon no worse for wear. Pup very soft mouth, so no casualties lol. Thanks for all the help
I use a lot of pigeons and use them over and over for months. I cycle through 5 birds so they aren't too abused and can recover. I just pull the first six or seven longest flight feathers and re pull as needed when they grow back in. If you clip them and the bird somehow escapes its done for because the feathers will take a long time to fall out and grow back if they've been cut.
That's what I do and its been working very well. I can leave the cage door open and if they do get out they come back before dark after I've had them a few weeks.