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How About Sharing Tips on Becoming A Better Handler

33K views 104 replies 72 participants last post by  drunkenpoacher 
#1 ·
I have been slowly but surely consolidating my handling notes. My most recent task has been redoing my notes from my seminar with Pat Burns in Bristol a month ago.

I thought it might be interesting if each of us put down a tip that we have used to improve our handling.

I will start.

When I began running Field Trials, there was just too much information for me to process. So I tried to streamline that information and just put a few key phrases on a 3x5 card, which I reviewed in the truck, and then again when I was waiting in the holding blind for my number to be called.

So my tip: Use a 3x5 card to list just a few key things that you want to focus on when you come to the line.

Ted
 
#11 ·
And be cognizant to not cast faster (keep consistent timing of casts throughout the blind) as the dog approaches the blind (when we generally need the most control). Counting to 5 after each whistle sit is what was suggested to me.
 
#6 ·
Ted, for the longest time I used your 3x5 idea. Helped me focus. Pulled it out in the holding blind before I ran. The biggest thing I've learned is to watch the dog's eyes, not necessarily their heads. Head could be still eyes could be moving.
 
#12 ·
My take away from that DVD was "Don't be a spectator " a long with that train of thought it was also brought to my attention that if I thought the dog was going to do X ( jump behind bush, get out of water, etc.) most likely the dog will...... act don't wait.....
 
#10 ·
As I get to the line I look for something fairly close on line to the blind or marks, a rock, clump of grass,not the end of the blind or the full distance to the bird. Helps me get a better initial line. First and foremost is SLOW DOWN. Been beat into me, but still not enough at times.
 
#13 ·
Keep your mind "in the zone" the whole time your dog is working. Mentally run every step your dog is taking in your head while your dog is doing it physically. I can't tell you how many times I've seen handlers lose that focus to talk to somebody for a second, and it seems the second they do, the dog messes up. Keep the connection.
 
#15 ·
A few years ago I went to the line in a master test. The birds went down, left, right, center deep flyer. I kicked my dog off on the center go bird (flyer). I took my eyes off of the dog for an instant to find the right hand outside bird. I looked back and he had popped. (On the flyer no less). I thought "Oh ****..we're done...
Then I realized both judges were turned around talking to the next handler and the very close gallery.

I quickly brought my hand up to my chest and gave a silent cast. He went and picked up the flyer. The outside birds were no problem. He one whistled the blind. PASS ...

Remember, be you judge or handler.... never take your eyes off of the dog.

Luck happens regards, JD
 
#19 ·
Know your dog and its body language. As soon as I see my dog's shoulder drop, I know she is changing direction and I blow the whistle. Do not wait, as soon as you read the intent, correct the dogs line. The longer they stay on the wrong line the more they want to continue. So be ready to hit the whistle, always have air in your lungs.
But mostly learn to read YOUR dog.
 
#63 ·
Once you get good at this, work on using your peripheral vision so that you can watch both the dog and the bird at the same time.
 
#22 ·
1. All blinds have a start , middle and end - handle with care.

2. Fast dog handle slow , slow dog handle fast.

3. Watch your competition and how they handle or mishandle their dogs starting from entering the last holding blind to their exiting the competitive line. Attempt to take the best and apply it to your dog.
 
#24 ·
Building on Chads comment. Use the mat to open up the field when things are tight...step towards danger.

Ronan Bill
 
#34 ·
#25 ·
To expand on slowing down:
When your dog returns with a mark, give them time to settle down and "lock in" on the next one before you send them again.
 
#26 ·
Slow down. The handler should be precise, don't be sloppy. Give crisp casts and hold them a moment or two
 
#48 ·
Slow down. The handler should be precise, don't be sloppy. Give crisp casts and hold them a moment or two
last week, after a cast, pat burns advised me to "slow down" a bit.

the next time i sat the dog, i waited a four count and eased my left arm up for the cast.

pat laughed and said, "john don't take slow down so literally. slow down, but still make a crisp cast!"
 
#27 ·
Great thread to help Ted

Just yesterday this happened to me

We were out, weather was great and a nice day
As usual I had a lot of stuff going on and when I brought the big dog up.
I was not ready mentally and just sort of went thru the motions.
We didn't do well

This has happened before so the lesson is be focused or leave the dog in the truck.
Dk
 
#29 ·
In training I like to bring my dog top the line, sit him, and let him survey the gunners for approx. ten seconds. Then I will show him the long gun, push or pull to the middle gun, cue easy if it's retired, and not even point him to the go bird. Then redirect to the long gun.
The best handling point I can share is that when the dog returns on a multiple and after he sits, keep the bird in his mouth as he looks out where the next bird to be picked up is. Let him sit there for at least five seconds with the bird in his mouth before removing it. Send with the bird in your hand, don't chuck it behind or to the side.
Another good handling tip is to vary the time your hand is over the dog's head before you release him. So many dogs are in tune to leaving almost as soon as they notice the hand over head. Sometimes I will wait two seconds and will vary the time up to approx. eight seconds.
 
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