How do you correct?

[Laminarman]

In two different situations, how do most folks correct? I'm talking about an adult 9 year old dog who knows better but occasionally just flips me the bird, figuring he has more testosterone than I do. Yes, I know, I should ALWAYS have the collar on him and transmitter in my hand, but I occasionally take it off around the home as he develops a hot spot.

How do you correct when he's 50-60-70 etc yards away and call here and he looks at you, hears you and doesn't come? I've seen a trainer drag them yelping by an ear, others walk out and when they start to come and just leave it at that. What do you do when you don't have a collar to make that dog know he better not ignore you next time?

How do you correct when he breaks during marking drills? Can't wear a collar during hunt tests, and he's collar smart, so if he breaks, ignores the whistle to sit and is hellbent on making the retrieve, how do you correct this? Run out and meet him on the way back and give a case of whoop ass or what? He breaks rarely during training, but may when he's had a few and gets really hot and anxious to go, especially in water. Not sure if correcting him while coming back with the bird is correct as he might have forgotten the reason I'm a maniac is he broke or am I over analyzing?

Thanks for the dumb questions, just wanted to see if there were any techniques different than what I use (which resembles a mad man chasing down a 90 pound dog, frothing at the mouth).

[Mike Boufford]

I usually just calmly walk out and grab them by the collar and walk them back in. Don't make a big deal because then the dog just runs off.

With regard to the second question, have someone standing behind you with a heeling stick ready to wallop him on the can if he even so much as thinks of picking his backside off the ground.

[Laminarman]

Thanks. I guess in regards to the first question, once I walk out and take a few steps he comes right in. I just don't want to have to take that step and have to threaten him. Good idea about breaking, never thought of that.

[Pete]

You can pick up a rock,,,meander close enough to him for accuracy then hit him in the ass with the rock and time the word "here" as the rock hits his ass. Or a sling shot is better,,,but who always has a sling shot on them.

Or better yet run the dog through some sort of program designed to re-condition him away from this behavior.

but since he is 9 and he is this way,,, it means that you have done what you can and still he is like this,,,,which probably means get help some someone local that can help you.

Good luck ( even though I don't believe in luck)
Pete

[marshmonster]

I hold up a riding crop and ask him WTF?


he always comes back in and starts fresh

[greyghost]

Give a "Burn"" (not a nick) and give the call in whistle. Stop your dog with the sit whistle and "Nick" a few times on the way in (Whistle Sit "Nick" Sit) and call in and repeat a few times.
The "Burn" get's your dogs attention and he realizes he better pay attention.
The "Nicks" and sit whistle re-enforces your control over your dog.

You will see results.

There are many, many opinions on breaking and what to do for different circumstances. Do a search for breaking. I guess the easy answer is do not let your dog be rewarded for breaking and don't let him get the bird in training if possible. That can be having a helper pick up the bird or take your dog off the line and return to the truck. There are many different ways and opinions on working thru this problem.

Having your dog obey your commands in the first part of this message will go a long ways in establishing control on the line and in the field. I'd work on that and get it under control quickly, and it may only take one session with the "Burn" and "Nick" sequence and that may make a big difference. The line issues with breaking will take longer and may never be fixed, it's a tough problem, especially with a dog that has been getting away with breaking for a while.

Just being honest.

[Laminarman]

Give a "Burn"" (not a nick) and give the call in whistle. Stop your dog with the sit whistle and "Nick" a few times on the way in (Whistle Sit "Nick" Sit) and call in and repeat a few times.
The "Burn" get's your dogs attention and he realizes he better pay attention.
The "Nicks" and sit whistle re-enforces your control over your dog.

You will see results.

There are many, many opinions on breaking and what to do for different circumstances. Do a search for breaking. I guess the easy answer is do not let your dog be rewarded for breaking and don't let him get the bird in training if possible. That can be having a helper pick up the bird or take your dog off the line and return to the truck. There are many different ways and opinions on working thru this problem.

Having your dog obey your commands in the first part of this message will go a long ways in establishing control on the line and in the field. I'd work on that and get it under control quickly, and it may only take one session with the "Burn" and "Nick" sequence and that may make a big difference. The line issues with breaking will take longer and may never be fixed, it's a tough problem, especially with a dog that has been getting away with breaking for a while.

Just being honest.

Thank you Greyghost, but he's a gentleman with the collar on. I was specifically asking about when he doesn't have it on. He got a hot spot and I had to keep it off for quite a while, and now it's recurred and the collar's off and it's during those times that he occasionally breaks or won't return. For the most part he's great, but he just now and then pushes my buttons to see what he can get away with. I wish I had the luxury of a bird boy, but I don't most times, and I'm not fast enough to get to the bird before him. I've just considered not working any drills with him while he can't wear the collar, but that doesn't help if I want to run hunt tests with him again (he ran years ago and got his SH). Might want to run him again for fun, but don't want to waste his or my time.

[Scott Greenwood]

What I always think, don't know if it is right or not, is if the dog is breaking or even fidgeting you have to go back and reestablish that sit means sit. No moving until given the signal.

Don't do it in a setup scenario, this is yard work and should be taken care of that way.

As far as the first question, it should also be taken care of in the yard. Here means here. Redo the rope with the pole training.

[PintailAle]

For the here command. First don't give a here command you can't enforce. I realize that is not always possible but try to stick to that rule. If the dog is 60 - 70 yards away with no collar on and doesn't listen stop giving the here command. This is how they learn they can get away with it. Go out and get the dog immediately and do some "here means here" drills with a check cord or choke chain. Give the command and enforce it close in then gradually stretch it out. During that session remove the cord/chain and give the command with good distance between you and the dog to complete the session. That has worked for me.

[DSemple]

9 years old, I would sit down with him and negotiate a deal. Offer him beer and cigarettes for the carrot part of the equation and threaten to take away his arthritis medicine for the stick part of it.

Let it go. He is getting old and you need to make some allowances. …..Don