Electronics for Homemade Wingers

[jecartag]

So I made a winger from Kwik's postings, but am having some problems with my electronics. I am using a bow release and a servo from R/C parts. Works perfect every time when the winger isnt loaded. Unfortunately, when the winger is loaded, there is too much tension on the caliper release for the servo to handle and I can't release my bumpers. For the last couple weeks I have been trying to mess with the set up I have to get it to work, but no luck so far. Does anybody have any suggestions/ideas or other products they would recommend?

I have heard about Elsema but have no clue on what trasmitter/receiver to use, and I have a hard time finding prices on their website.

Does anybody know if I can run a power door lock off of a 9V battery? I just dont want to have to carry around a 12V because once I get this figured out I want to build a few more.

Thank you!

[KwickLabs]

How are you connecting the bow trigger release to the pouch?

I use actual bow string material tied to an eyebolt in the pouch. The bow release is very strong at holding a load and the trigger is very sensitive. If you have a small eyebolt directly being held by the trigger mechanism.......that may be the problem.

[Newf]

you could try using a small eye or two to increase your mechanical advantage...think pulley system....

[Jerry Beil]

Where do you get the remotes?

[jecartag]

How are you connecting the bow trigger release to the pouch?

I use actual bow string material tied to an eyebolt in the pouch. The bow release is very strong at holding a load and the trigger is very sensitive. If you have a small eyebolt directly being held by the trigger mechanism.......that may be the problem.

Thats a good thought. I will try bowstring. I am using 1/16"" wire but will try the string to see if it works. Good idea and thank you for the suggestions.


I got the remote from a hobby store. It was actually a kit that came with a transmitter, 2 servos, battery pack, a receiver, and a switch. It is a 2-channel system and will work with 2 wingers as long as you get another receiver. The maker of the kit is Futaba. Let me know if this helps.

[MooseGooser]

Remember who you is talkin to here!

But,,
If the release is like the Kwick pictured, and you really do feel that the strong tension is what is binding the release.....

If you look at Kwicks pickture, and notice the square shoulders on thr release mechanisum.
Thats a 90 degree shoulder that COULD make it hard, and require a stong force to open the fingers. That corner COULD actually be holding the release closed.

If yours is like this,, and it is requiring to open against that 90 degree or similar corner, how about trying to take a small Dremel tool, and grinding an angle on the sharp corners, so that there is not so much surface to bind the release!

Always a good idea to just take a little at a time, and then experiment to get what you want.

Gooser

[MooseGooser]

P.S.

ANNNNNNNND once you decide to try what I sugested,, POLISH, POLISH POLISH the area very well.
You might just want to try this first!

Gooser

[Kelly Greenwood]

The door lock actuator is designed to work at around 13.6-14.2 volts. This is the normal voltage of a car while running. If using a 9 volt battery I would use two and connect one negative to one positive and then modify the battery wire connector so you can connect it to the positive on one battery and negative on another. This will give you 18 volts which should solve your problem. Another option would be to go to a Radio Shack type store and buy a 8 AA battery holder and wire that up, that will give you 12 volts and a bit more amps.

[Todd Caswell]

If you go to battery plus you can get really small 12 volt batterys, there about 2 inches by 4 inches. Rechargable with a small plug in charger same one that is used on a "Vexlar ice fishing rig". Using a 9 volt or AA battery holder would seem like a pain, and exspensive over time...

[jecartag]

Just wanted to say thank you for everybody's suggestions and help. I ended up goin to the junkyard and pulled a couple power door lock actuators and it worked. I will try and get a pic posted if anybody is interested and wants to build their own.

Again, I really do appreciate everybodys help.

And...

Gooser, you had an awesome idea and I tried it. I also polished to try and create less friction. However, I had a poor design with a 90 degree turn that I believe made it more difficult on the servo. Anyways, thanks for the advice!