So I made a winger from Kwik's postings, but am having some problems with my electronics. I am using a bow release and a servo from R/C parts. Works perfect every time when the winger isnt loaded. Unfortunately, when the winger is loaded, there is too much tension on the caliper release for the servo to handle and I can't release my bumpers. For the last couple weeks I have been trying to mess with the set up I have to get it to work, but no luck so far. Does anybody have any suggestions/ideas or other products they would recommend?
I have heard about Elsema but have no clue on what trasmitter/receiver to use, and I have a hard time finding prices on their website.
Does anybody know if I can run a power door lock off of a 9V battery? I just dont want to have to carry around a 12V because once I get this figured out I want to build a few more.
It definitely sounds like they are latched, 12 volts is 12 volts, AH is simply how long the battery will run. I bulit my launchers using actuators and dont fight this problem
If you bought the three finction receivers (momentary-latched-toggle), refer back to the insert that carymart sent you woth the receivers. If you cant find it, let me know, and i will search for mine. As they said above, you need to be on momentary mode. The battery shouldnt b the problem. What size wires are you using? Are they all the same size or smaller? I doubt that is a problem, but keep that in the back of your mind if you are already set on momentary mode.
If you bouth the three finction receivers (momentary-latched-toggle), refer back to the insert that carymart sent you woth the receivers. If you cant find it, let me know, and i will search for mine. As they said above, you need to be on momentary mode. The battery shouldnt b the problem. What size wires are you using? Are they all the same size or smaller? I doubt that is a problem, but keep that in the back of your mind if you are already set on momentary mode.
I have mine handy in my shop, I can reference it when I get home if needed. For wire to be the problem, it would have to be probably 18 gauge or smaller.
Jecartag - Could you throw another link up to the Carymart transmitter and receiver you used? The link you posted in 2012 takes me to a "product no longer available page." I've been working on building a pair of wingers but used walkie-talkies for the electronics and i can't get any consistency out of them. Thanks!
just bought mine it takes 10-20 days of shipping just FWIW. i'm on day 11 now still waiting. i went with the 8 button transmitter (4 wingers 2 channels each) and magnetic antennas
For future reference, in case CaryMart decides to change the form in which they sell these receivers or change the exact web address for this specific receiver, the product code below is for the 2-channel receiver (multiple series possible). Just copy and paste in the search bar on Carymart.com.
0020410
Hope this Helps. Dont hesitate if you have more questions!
can you explain lacthed . is their a setting on my rec that i can change the only thing that i cna see is a black peace that goes over to metal post and their are to post not covered
Latched means when you push the button on the transmitter for the appropriate receiver, the receiver sends power to the power door lock actuator and maintains this power. In order to turn the actuator off, you have to push the button again. So, for instance, if you have button #1 on your transmitter controlling winger 1, and you want to launch a bumper from winger one, it goes something like this "push button 1 - power goes to actuator, releases caliper and bumper is tossed - push button 1 again - power is shut off to actuator" Basically, if you push Button 1, your actuator maintains is PULL function until you push button 1 again. If you do not push button 1, the actuator will continuously be in the PULL state.
Momentary is the function you want to be using. Momentary mode is just that...you push button one, and power is momentarily supplied to the actuator. Your series is then something like this "push button 1 - actuator gets power for a split second and performs a pull function - power is shut off to actuator through receiver - actuator arm returns to neutral position" Notice, you do NOT need to push button 1 more than one time. Does this help? I will go look for my instructions right now...
Here are the instructions for changing the mode that I was sent by carymart. I figured out the reason that nobody can get to the website I posted earlier for the CaryMart receivers is because they must have updated them. I emailed CaryMart about a month ago to get the part number for the appropriate receiver (I explained my purpose), and that is how I came up with the part number for the current model in the above post. Hopefully the programming is still the same. If not, let us know and maybe somebody with a similar model number can help you out. Here is what came with my receivers....
Lets hear some opinions on those guys that are using the 12V system. I will be quite honest; I went with the 9V system because I figured 9V batteries were smaller, lighter weight, and just seemed more convenient. However, they wear out pretty quickly, and since I did not buy the rechargable ones, it is becoming quite expensive. I get about 2 days worth of hard training out of them, and then they need replaced. I will likely get the lithium ion rechargables in teh near future, and will update everybody once I do. In hindsight, it seems to me like the 12V system may have been a better idea...
Straight-Gut- I am getting a 9V battery to operate the actuator sufficiently. I actually am running (2) 9 V batteries in parallel with the actuator. I can get a single battery to work the operator pretty well, but lasts even shorter amount of time. If you havent invested in the 9V system, I would wait to hear some feedback on the 12V system. If you have already invested in the 9V, it may be a good idea to use rechargables...hope this helps.
i got the 9 but then i realized that the actuators are rated for up to 12 and i wanted to be able to run my receiver, speaker, and actuator off one batter without it draining so i sent an email and had them change it to 12V
i'm using the 315Mhz for the wingers. it doesnt really matter. next time when i build my launcher's i'll go with the 433 since i'm likely to be using them at the same time. if you have any buddies with the same setup make sure you dont use the same Mhz. its like when my dad flew RC planes you went over to the cupboard at the airport and grabbed a chip with the frequency on it that no one was using that way someone else didnt have control of your plane.
i'm using the 315Mhz for the wingers. it doesnt really matter. next time when i build my launcher's i'll go with the 433 since i'm likely to be using them at the same time. if you have any buddies with the same setup make sure you dont use the same Mhz. its like when my dad flew RC planes you went over to the cupboard at the airport and grabbed a chip with the frequency on it that no one was using that way someone else didnt have control of your plane.
if you dont have any kind of hardware stockpile (pvc, nuts, bolts, zip ties, etc) on hand like i didnt then around $600-650
electronics 180
pouches and rubbers 200
actuators, bow release 75
pvc, hardware, zip ties 150-200
but considering i just saw 4 used ones plus electronics for 1825 then i think i came out ahead. especially when you look at new prices.
i would reccomend only attempting this if you have access to major power tools. i went to my dad's house and we had to use his band saw, mitor saw, belt grinder, drill press, and his foot pedaled dental drill (he uses it for jewelry work). we used kendell stefensen's design
Straight-Gut: I recently made a set of wingers for a buddy; I have a generic price list saved on my computer. I made a set of 3 wingers, and the cost per winger came out to be APPROXIMATELY $175. I did some very rough rounding, but I would suspect that this would be very close to the actual cost. This included the cost of the electronics and the Piezo siren from radioshack.
Speaking of sirens, has anybody used something like this with any luck? The peizo siren I am using is nice for younger dogs at close marks, but it seems like once I get outside of 40 or 50 yards, I cant hear it.
Thanks Jeremy, I read Kwicks thread about these a while back and your recent posts got me back on the task.
Gonna try and order the electronics part for 4 and get to buildin.
To follow up with Blake's last comment...sounds like he did a much better job than I did. I used two power tools: a jig-saw and a power drill. My wingers are probably not as precisely built as blakes, but I have not had any problems with them.
My winger frame design is very similar to Mr. Boyer's, aka, KwikLabs, and all the credit goes to him!
I used 1/2" PVC for main frame...was unsure about its sturdiness, but it has held up just fine. I have also seen the frame made out of 1/2" conduit. Be creative with what you have, and do waht you have to do to make it work!
Good luck, and let us know if you run into any problems. This forum is full of people who are way smarter than I am, but I will help you out with what I can!
Here is a picture of a winger I found made out of EMT conduit. I have had this saved to my computer for a few years now, and did not build this myself. I dont remember where it came from, but could be another idea for those who have experience bending EMT.
ok thank you . when i rec my electronics in the mail i just opened the up and started wiring like the example 1 shows was i susposed to rest the rec to mometary like it says in the dircretions .thank you again i have no idea what i am doing when it come to electronics. i uselly just throw away any thing with directions. lol
i wasnt even going to put the speaker except my Mon.-Fri. training grounds is in the city and i cant pop off a 209 shot so thats what the speaker is for just to get him looking that way. i dont really care what sound it makes. although i wouldnt mind having a tritronics buzzer sound instead of an alarm
the HRC guys may want that though.
oh i knew it was kwik's design except the difference is that kendell used this rotating bushing and made his bigger. i'm pretty sure all homemade pvc winger's are based on kwik's design. this is just kendell's version of kwik's.
jeremy thanks for all your help i see your kankakee river hrc member.i belong to the saint clair flats hrc and all i hear is how good of hunt test your club puts on hope i can make one this year if not next year for sure
Tom P - Thanks! It was made by Mr. Todd Caswell! Very nice of him to do that for me!
Bird Barrel - You are welcome. Any time! Dont hesitate to ask if there is something I may be able to help with. I have only been with KR HRC for a couple years and have been nothing but impressed. Couldnt say enough good things about the club and the guys in it. Alot of nice people with a lot of nice dogs! My hunt test experience is limited, but I do know that at the last 4 hunt tests I have been a part of with HRC, a lot of work is put in (as I am sure that is the case at most places). Hope to see you in the near future!
Heres mine, i throw bumpers but think it could throw a teal 5 ish yds. I like that i can throw 3 or however many you design it for. It'll throw a bumper 10-15 yds long and 15ft high depending on placement. Peizo mounted to jbox, only negative is I need a car battery to weigh it down to keep from shaking bumpers off the arms. I built 2 of these, used them for 2 weeks then got a sweet deal on 4 max 5000s. Id sell them if antyone was interested.
those are sweet. nice work! Have you thrown Dokkens in them?
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