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Electronics for Homemade Wingers

33K views 70 replies 26 participants last post by  Misty Marsh 
#1 · (Edited)
So I made a winger from Kwik's postings, but am having some problems with my electronics. I am using a bow release and a servo from R/C parts. Works perfect every time when the winger isnt loaded. Unfortunately, when the winger is loaded, there is too much tension on the caliper release for the servo to handle and I can't release my bumpers. For the last couple weeks I have been trying to mess with the set up I have to get it to work, but no luck so far. Does anybody have any suggestions/ideas or other products they would recommend?

I have heard about Elsema but have no clue on what trasmitter/receiver to use, and I have a hard time finding prices on their website.

Does anybody know if I can run a power door lock off of a 9V battery? I just dont want to have to carry around a 12V because once I get this figured out I want to build a few more.

Thank you!
 
#2 ·
How are you connecting the bow trigger release to the pouch?

I use actual bow string material tied to an eyebolt in the pouch. The bow release is very strong at holding a load and the trigger is very sensitive. If you have a small eyebolt directly being held by the trigger mechanism.......that may be the problem.

 
#5 ·
How are you connecting the bow trigger release to the pouch?

I use actual bow string material tied to an eyebolt in the pouch. The bow release is very strong at holding a load and the trigger is very sensitive. If you have a small eyebolt directly being held by the trigger mechanism.......that may be the problem.


Thats a good thought. I will try bowstring. I am using 1/16"" wire but will try the string to see if it works. Good idea and thank you for the suggestions.


I got the remote from a hobby store. It was actually a kit that came with a transmitter, 2 servos, battery pack, a receiver, and a switch. It is a 2-channel system and will work with 2 wingers as long as you get another receiver. The maker of the kit is Futaba. Let me know if this helps.
 
#4 ·
Where do you get the remotes?
 
#6 ·
Remember who you is talkin to here!:razz:

But,,
If the release is like the Kwick pictured, and you really do feel that the strong tension is what is binding the release.....

If you look at Kwicks pickture, and notice the square shoulders on thr release mechanisum.
Thats a 90 degree shoulder that COULD make it hard, and require a stong force to open the fingers. That corner COULD actually be holding the release closed.

If yours is like this,, and it is requiring to open against that 90 degree or similar corner, how about trying to take a small Dremel tool, and grinding an angle on the sharp corners, so that there is not so much surface to bind the release!

Always a good idea to just take a little at a time, and then experiment to get what you want.

Gooser
 
#7 ·
P.S.

ANNNNNNNND once you decide to try what I sugested,, POLISH, POLISH POLISH the area very well.
You might just want to try this first!

Gooser
 
#8 ·
The door lock actuator is designed to work at around 13.6-14.2 volts. This is the normal voltage of a car while running. If using a 9 volt battery I would use two and connect one negative to one positive and then modify the battery wire connector so you can connect it to the positive on one battery and negative on another. This will give you 18 volts which should solve your problem. Another option would be to go to a Radio Shack type store and buy a 8 AA battery holder and wire that up, that will give you 12 volts and a bit more amps.
 
#10 ·
Just wanted to say thank you for everybody's suggestions and help. I ended up goin to the junkyard and pulled a couple power door lock actuators and it worked. I will try and get a pic posted if anybody is interested and wants to build their own.

Again, I really do appreciate everybodys help.

And...

Gooser, you had an awesome idea and I tried it. I also polished to try and create less friction. However, I had a poor design with a 90 degree turn that I believe made it more difficult on the servo. Anyways, thanks for the advice! :)
 
#11 ·
hmmm, gives me an idea or two for a remote potato gun......
 
#12 ·
Here is a picture of what I came up with. I may have done more than I actually needed but it works and thats what matters. In the pic you ill see a gap between the momentary switch and the power door lock actuator. I am going to put another switch in between those two parts and connect the Piezo mini siren from radioshack to it so I can have an alarm. The servo moves in two directions, therefore, you can run one channel function per servo. Turn the R/C transmitter wheel forward to move the servo one way, and then turn it back to move the servo in the opposite direction. This will allow two momentary switches to be set off independently.

I hope this helps somebody!
Thanks again for everybodys help!


Sorry if I didnt add pictures the right way. I couldnt figure out how to do it through the "Insert Image" button, so had to add as attachments.

And for the record....I do not take credit for any of this. The final product came from a collection of suggestions from many people! What I tried to do on my own didnt work!
 
#15 ·
I felt like I should report back....finally, I think I figured out a decent design for the homemade winger and electronics. As I said last year, I used Kiwks design for the frame...it is great, sturdy, lightweight, and folds up very nice. I went to a Scuba Store and bought the latex tubing for the bands. I used a ZingerWinger pouch and Hardware from menards (pulleys, etc). I also used a bow release with a power door lock actuator. Also, I use the piezo mini siren (9V) from Radioshack for the attention getting device.

The electronics are from CaryMart.com. I bought the 6 channel transmitter that came with 6 receivers. They program the setting and label the receivers, so all you have to do is "plug and play". The transmitter and receivers all each run off 9V battery. I have put them through quite a bit of use and havent had a problem with the original battery yet.

http://www.carymart.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=151&zenid=cdgrtle3o4ab0j5f0ctd4qqk27 (unfortunately, these are made in china)

One problem I have is that I cant hear the mini siren from from my max launch distance which is about 115 yards. The ideal launch distance from the company says it is 300 meters. However, I may not have the receiver set up in my box to utilize the maximum distance, either. Also, you have the option to purchase an antenna for the receivers....I goofed up and only bought one receiver with an antenna, so I havent used that one yet (I only have 2 built...I plan on building the 3rd soon).

So, each winger has 2 receiver...one functions to pull the power door lock actuator (I got from a Junkyard from Ford Explorer), and the other receiver operates the mini siren.

I do not currently have pictures, but can post them or email them for those interested!

Hopefully this helps somebody! And thanks to Kwik and all the others who have helped me finalizing the winger!
 
#17 · (Edited)
And the last one...looks like it worked! I hope this helps somebody and let me know if you have any questions...my PM is almost full but feel free to PM...I will try and clear some space tonight but not sure if I will get the chance. I will check the forum...good luck!



Again...I am not taking credit for ANY of this! The idea came from tips from many people! Also, I used Kwik's design, which is GREAT! Nice work from everybody! Much appreciated!



Also, here is the website for the transmitter/recerive package I used
http://www.carymart.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=151&zenid=1su16ukcpsrs6mutifkk2221v6

And here is the URL for the Piezo mini siren...I would recommend that you be sure you have the high intensity siren...mine are not and they can be tough to hear if you are about 100 yards out and training where there is alot of noise "in the background"
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062405

Radioshack project box...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062284

Switches
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3097458

9V Battery Clips
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062220

9V Battery power wires
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062218

TruFire Patriot Jr Caliper Release (ebay...this one is $22 with shipping; I found them as cheap as $12.00 before...keep an eye out!)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TRU-FIR...817?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53ebc68639

Power Door Lock Actuator - There are cheaper ones than this out ther ($5). The ones I used came from a Ford Explorer. I went to the junk yard and paid $1 a piece (had to take them out myself though..not too difficult!)
http://www.amazon.com/HIGH-POWER-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR/dp/B0002KR9PW

Stumbled upon this website as I was searching...didnt spend time looking into it but it may help somebody with "pull" function for winger electronics
http://www.kocomotionus.com/products/linear-actuators.html


I think that just about does it...let me know if ya got questions!
 
#19 · (Edited)
Im not sure on that one...I have never used Elsema electronics. I called their company last year when I was really looking hard for a good setup because I heard quite a bit of good things about them...they told me they didnt really sell what I was looking for anymore...however, I may have dont a horrible job explaining the type of product I needed. the CaryMarts I am using have only been up and running for a few weeks...so far no problems, but I havent had them long enough to say for sure, either
 
#20 ·
Does anyone have a website for a servo that would work to push the rrt to fire like the following youtube video?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=einY6g53jqk

I am looking into making one like this, but need some help with the servo. I am going to try and use the carymart.com electronics like jecartag. But, I am not sure how on the youtube video he pushes a button and it actuates the servo and them the servo goes back to the home position. I understand how it would do it on a remote control car steering, but not with just the push of a button to turn it and letting off the button returns it to the home position.
 
#21 ·
I dont have an answer for ya right now on the servo. I dont know too much about them and have only really dealt with servos one time (the first time I attempted electronics which was last year).

However, I do know that the receivers have 3 control modes...latched, momentary, and toggle. This means you can program it (real easy...I was able to do it! You just use the transmitter to do this and the instructions on doing this are included) to adjust to your function. I would imagine that if you have the proper setting the servo arm would return back to resting position. I know it did on my RC car when I used it.

For instance...the receivers came in the mail, they were all programmed for the latched mode. This meant that when I pushed the button, the door actuator would do it pull function, but instead of pulling and returning back to resting, it would keep pulling. So, in order to relieve the pull function, you would have to push the buttom again to turn it "off". But, I switched to a different mode (cant remember the difference between momentary and toggle, but I used one of them, ha ha) so now when I push the button once, the door actuator pulls and then returns to normal position. Hope this helps and hopefully somebody can help you out with the servos. This would be my best shot, but like I said, I dont know too much about them...Good luck!

http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/173-servo

This servo may be too small for what you want to use it for...but just thought I'd try!
 
#22 ·
I've built a launcher for my 2" avery hexabumpers that uses the carymart electronics. I got the 12 channel reciever/transmitter with antenna. I have used it out to 200yds with no problem(they claim 500yds). My launcher can hold 3 bumpers, I used door actuators as well. Mine is a catapult(sp) design and only launches the bumpers 15-20ft and around 10' high. I also put a piezo buzzer. In the end I will have 3 of these using all 12 channels and will be able to launch 9 different bumpers.
 
#23 ·
Well, it took me a couple weeks to get all my parts in, but take a look and see what you think...

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj630/robbiecox2/ElectronicsforBumperLauncher.jpg

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj630/robbiecox2/Launchers.jpg

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj630/robbiecox2/Solenoid.jpg

I had a couple issues with the batteries falling out when I launched, and the battery wires disconnecting when I launched. That is why the battery pack is all taped up. Those launchers throw a jolt when they fire.
 
#26 ·
hey guy having some problems with my electronics bought the cary mart 12 channel remote and 6 two channel rec ever things works fine and is hooked up to 12 volt batt . the problem is that my door actuator are over heating and burning out . what can this be from to much batt or do in need to add something to my wiring to help prevent this
 
#28 ·
still waiting on my electronics but it sounds like you have the receivers in latched or toggle (press buttong and it doesnt quit pulling until you let off button/press button and it keeps pulling till you press again.). they need to be in momentary (press button and it pulls and lets go instantly.

the battery could also be the cause. i'm using a 12 volt 1.4 mAh and i havent had any problems using the battery in the yard (sans electronics)
 
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