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Thread: Drills to get straight line to aof

  1. #21
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    Has he always run at the gun with his marks? Is this a typical behavior of his?

    Angie

  2. #22
    Senior Member Carol Cassity's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angie B View Post
    Has he always run at the gun with his marks? Is this a typical behavior of his?

    Angie
    That was my thought as well.

    For a dog that marks the gunner and not the bird, I like big gorilla marks flat from the gunner. We use the big white of BW bumpers and get one of the young guns in the group (Joe) to throw as far away as possible from the gunner. This encourages a dog to work the mark, not the gun.

    Also, walkaways help keep the dog on the mark and not the gun.

    Singles are a given until the dog is consistently working the mark.
    Carol

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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbr View Post
    If it's a master level dog you may want to just run singles on multiple gun set ups for a while.

    Bert
    +1

    This approach is part of what Lardy writes about in Training with Mike Lardy, Volume III, in the Preseason Training article - writing of TWML in the other thread.
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  4. #24
    Senior Member Kelly Greenwood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carol Cassity View Post
    That was my thought as well.

    For a dog that marks the gunner and not the bird, I like big gorilla marks flat from the gunner. We use the big white of BW bumpers and get one of the young guns in the group (Joe) to throw as far away as possible from the gunner. This encourages a dog to work the mark, not the gun.

    Also, walkaways help keep the dog on the mark and not the gun.

    Singles are a given until the dog is consistently working the mark.
    x2 Big throws or close marks teach dogs to go to mark not gunner. Then you can handle off of gunner with older more experienced dogs. While a dog should not bounce off gunners it also should use gunner position to help it find the bird if needed. Hidden gunners during the throw also help.
    Dogs Dog, Handlers Handle, Judges Judge

  5. #25
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    I agree with you Carol, also retiring the gun will help. But I have to ask why change it?? If he's been doing it all his life, and he's been successful, (MH), why mess with it?

    I had a dog that did his marking this way for a long, long time. I did everything to try to fix it. It all made him really nervous which created more problems. So I decided to leave him alone. As he got older he quit doing it. Go figure??

    If I see a dog start with this habit, I usually handle and then repeat. It may take a while but they usually give up this behavior.

    Angie

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Angie B View Post
    Has he always run at the gun with his marks? Is this a typical behavior of his?

    Angie

    he has not always done this. he was doing it on the long mark yesterday. had an issue with it last year some though

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carol Cassity View Post
    That was my thought as well.

    For a dog that marks the gunner and not the bird, I like big gorilla marks flat from the gunner. We use the big white of BW bumpers and get one of the young guns in the group (Joe) to throw as far away as possible from the gunner. This encourages a dog to work the mark, not the gun.

    Also, walkaways help keep the dog on the mark and not the gun.

    Singles are a given until the dog is consistently working the mark.
    what do you mean by "walkaways"?

  8. #28
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    Walk aways, drive aways and organized confusion drill are all pretty much the same thing and are exactly what they say they are. The bird boy throws a bird and he then walks away or drives away to the next station after the bird hits the ground.

    Also go out and throw for your dog, watch how he attacks the mark. The dog I pointed out in my post is an area of the fall marker. He's better now but that's how he marks. It helped me to understand why his behavior was the way it was. His eyes never really addressed the bird until he was almost in the fall area.

    Angie

  9. #29
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    Have gunner throw bird.
    Bird hits the ground
    Gunner immediately starts walking away from bird
    You send dog when he looks at mark
    And a hundred variations of this using different timing of sending dog ,and walking away. See what helps the dog learn faster and then change the sequence when he understands. All training morphs to fit whats happening in the moment. So it doesn't stay exactly as I originally stated.
    It could be the thrower moves immediately upon throwing the bird or waiting till the dog gets to the gunner or, or, or,.or or or ect ect ect.
    And sometimes you gotta play a part in it

    You gotta figure that part out. Thats part of learning how to handle the dog ( not neccessarily talking about hand signals)

    good luck

    Pete

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete View Post
    Have gunner throw bird.
    Bird hits the ground
    Gunner immediately starts walking away from bird
    You send dog when he looks at mark
    And a hundred variations of this using different timing of sending dog ,and walking away. See what helps the dog learn faster and then change the sequence when he understands. All training morphs to fit whats happening in the moment. So it doesn't stay exactly as I originally stated.
    It could be the thrower moves immediately upon throwing the bird or waiting till the dog gets to the gunner or, or, or,.or or or ect ect ect.
    And sometimes you gotta play a part in it

    You gotta figure that part out. Thats part of learning how to handle the dog ( not neccessarily talking about hand signals)

    good luck

    Pete
    thanks, i will try this. although it seems that it would distract dog to much or cause head swinging

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