Does anyone have an article to explain walking singles? How to do them and why. I have a puppy owner that could really use it. They train on their own or with one person quite a bit. I have videos....but need something to send.
TIA!
Sue Puff
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Does anyone have an article to explain walking singles? How to do them and why. I have a puppy owner that could really use it. They train on their own or with one person quite a bit. I have videos....but need something to send.
TIA!
Sue Puff
Dennis Voigt's DVD explains things well and if you have his recent magazine Retrievers Online, there is an article on stand alones in there. Quite effective when training by yourself and you can accomplish much.
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I would like an explaination as well if anyone would like to share....thanks in advance...
Constructive walking singles is usually a simple matter, if you have a helper who can and will follow direction. The length of the routes, and considerations like bird placement are according the what the dog needs. But the mechanics are pretty much the same. Give your bird boy a blank pistol and a bucket of birds, and tell them in advance what you want them to do. If you want high, arching throws, tell them. If you want long, low, flat throws, as you might with a pup, let your BB know in advance. If there are any other specifics you want from your BB, make sure you get as much explained in advance as possible.
I usually run mine by predetermining a route the BB will walk; a slanting route from short distance to long - each mark being slightly longer, for example. Again, I tell my BB to move 15-20 paces as he/she progresses along the route to keep the marks distinct from each other. I also generally throw the marks away from the direction the BB will move along the route. For example, if your BB will move to the right along the route, I instruct them to throw to the left, so they're backing away from each old fall. I don't always do that, but it's a good general rule.
Does that help?
Evan
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Pretty simple really. Send your helper out with a bucket of bumpers (or better yet, dead birds) and throw a mark. Stand still, prepared to help the pup if needed. When the pup picks up the mark, the helper walks/runs to a new location and repeats.
Vary the distance and direction of the throw as appropriate for the pup. You don't say how old the pup is but use all the good judgement for the pup's age/training level; e.g., if a brand new pup, toss the mark inward so the pup will not be tempted to bring it to the helper, etc.
Make the throws long and flat for a young puppy. For an older , more experienced one, vary the angle of the throws ... flat, angled back, an occasional angle in, etc.
Instruct your thrower on how you want them to help the pup when needed.
JS
Sorry, Evan ... didn't mean to step on your toes.![]()
Last edited by JS; 10-29-2012 at 09:22 AM.
When I say, "always", I mean "almost always".
When I say, "never", I mean "almost never".
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Sue I sent you a pm ML
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Yorkton's Ironwood Chief
Thanks guys! You explained it better than I could. I do them regularly, both in open fields and thos with round bales of hay. Was trying to find a coherent way to explain them to her! The 'pup' is two. Is out of transition. The problem is she needs to see more marks. When she can get someone, I thought walking singles would be a great way to go. I showed her how to remote throw and then return and send and also the beginnings of remote send. Pro did the initial training, she's doing all the rest. I will also suggest the Hillman, Voights and Evans stuff. I only have Lardys stuff and haven't seen any of the others.
Thanks!
Sue Puff
A fun addition to Evan’s explanation is to do single retrieves off of multiple gunners in the field. Set up 4ish stick men in the field angled away and spaced out. Have your 1 helper stand at one, then another and another stickman.
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