RetrieverTraining.Net - the RTF banner

TY 7mths, FTP, Simple double and a frozen mallard

4K views 22 replies 8 participants last post by  grnhd 
#1 ·
Been a while since i posted anything on my new addition. Ty will be 7mths on the 11th and we have been working daily. We have been finding places to train through the cold and snow. He is coming along very well in my eyes. We work very thoroughly through each step in training. We used Hillman's pup dvd then moved on to Fowl Dawgs.
This is my first pup that i am training following a system and steps so please provide feedback on what you see, and maybe a way to rectify any problems you see with him or I.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-nbuUAfMJ4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocR_XcQ-1wo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krrJu4pgLhU
 
#2 ·
What camera are you using that gives you that vertical (portrait) orientation?
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the info. I would like to suggest that due to the aspect ratio of computer screens, you should always do your videos (that you wish to post) in horizontal (landscape) orientation. It makes for much better use of the area of the screen.

Cool stuff by the way. I'm not sure my 34 month old would ignore the other dog running around like that.
 
#6 ·
Looks like Ty is doing good. Mine would not ignore the other dog, I'm sure. Why did you nick him at your side with the first back and then later on but I forget the number of the cast?
 
#7 ·
Wayne,
I just re watched the vid and im not sure about a nick later on. I have been having alot of issues with my collar lately, I think the Canadian cold may have pooched the battery. It seems as though my burns are becoming very inconsistant. I get occasional head shakes, or a occasional yelp but there seems to be several strides in between. I have to sharge the collar after every use. I am waiting to here back from dogtra as its only a couple years old.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Hello great video. Ty appears to be doing well. He sure sits nice by your side and comes in nice. I noticed maybe just slow down before you send Ty again-just thought it was a bit quick. Probably the cold weather makes you move fast. You certainly have alot of snow. Yes I agree it is challenging training in the snow.
I concur with Wayne - watch Lardy's FTP.
Meant to add my Dogtra acts up in the cold. Don't use it now b/c it is so old! I have a new vibration collar which is easier to adjust. Could not tell you why but it might be better to get a newer collar that will take the cold especially for training a young dog.
Thanks for sharing.
 
#8 ·
The second time the dog yelped was at 1:53 in the video. It looked like you had your hand in your pocket on the ecollar.
 
#9 ·
Yup your right, he got a very light burn all the way down. I was under the impression that these were to be mixed in once or twice per session.I am using Rick's FD and have watched it several times in particular this portion as i have never attempted this with a dog. His are very light, when he yelps his collar is at 25 out of the 127 the unit goes up to.
This right here is the reason i post on here, i appreciate your help. I just wish more would join in. It really seems like theres a "boys" club on here and some of the newer board members sometimes get past over.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I don't know about Fowl Dogs but I use TRT by Mike Lardy. Generally the force process is to have them in a remote front sit position and cast them back and on the spin nick the dog in momentary mode (assuming left and right backs do on both sides). Lots of freebies. After that goes well a couple of times, then nick him enroute to the pile (say between 1/3 to half way to the pile) but not at your side. If his is going straight through the force points and going with enthusiasm to the pile that is probably enough. the Lardy FTP distance is about 35 to 45 yds. I use 40 yds.
Hope this helps.
 
#11 ·
I watched all three videos a couple of times and did not post up immediately. The reason was I needed to reflect on what I saw. First off, I want to compliment you on making great progress with such a young pup. You obviously have succeeded in teaching him quite a bit and he is definitely a keeper!

The distractions by the other dog were amazingly ignored and the pup using the hide hints that your primary purpose for this pup may be to hunt (just a guess). I use a hide often in training, but I never release my dogs directly from the hide. The reasoning is to avoid making an expectation out of the hide becoming a launching pad. They come to heel before making any retrieves.

It is very good to have a precocious pup for your first. You've succeeded in getting him to focus and be responsive. That's a huge advantage down the road. His delivery at that age is outstanding and consistent. He obviously is having a great deal of fun and that is because of your approach. Good for you!

I really only have a couple of things that jumped out at me. First of all, he was sent on his name for the first mark and on "back" for the second. Then again, I need to balance that with the fact that he is only is only 6 months old. I would be sending him on all marks with his name for the release and pile/blind retrieves use "back". Make the difference a clear distinction.

One last thing, the release to go could be a bit slower and calmer...don't rush it. The "hand down" cue is best issued slowly with no distracting motions. I believe you are trying to convey enthusiasm to the pup, but I like to release my dogs quietly from the line (most of the time) to avoid feeding anxiety.

Thanks for the videos....they are very cool (and not because of the snow). ;)
 
#16 ·
The distractions by the other dog were amazingly ignored and the pup using the hide hints that your primary purpose for this pup may be to hunt (just a guess). I use a hide often in training, but I never release my dogs directly from the hide. The reasoning is to avoid making an expectation out of the hide becoming a launching pad. They come to heel before making any retrieves.

Awesome, I love this idea. Will be incorperating this into my program.
 
#13 ·
I get everything being said here and am very thankful for the help as the only retriever club in my area is a touch over an hour away (which is no prob) but there is a real doucher member, very opinionated, his way or now way kinda guy that is keeping a few of us young guys from going. I dont need to be be-littled or talked to like that by anyone. Im a veteran damnit and dog training is suppose to be me. I am so so happy that all the inconsistanies are on my end. I added this thread to my favs to read daily before training, i also keep notes on my Iphone.
I may just keep posting videos so you all can keep helping me out.
 
#14 ·
Our dogs are a very similar in age. I agree with the comments on sending....only because i caught myself doing something similar. Have you FF this dog? I imagine you have, i just noticed he was slower picking up the duck. I myself would be interested in hearing what works/doesnt to improve live bird handling. We are working same drills with frozen ducks a lots of yard obedience w ducks in mouth to improve ours. Only other comment, i use Smartworks and force on a send in FTP, but i delay it slightly. Try to get the command out & dogs first step then later its en-route force with original back....then nick-back in 5 yd increments each send out to 40. Jealous of TYs return, my girl likes o come in hot & burn up the brakes :)
 
#19 ·
Yes he is through FF.
Ty is generally very very speedy when it comes to getting a bird scooped up, this one wasn't thawed at all. He was trying to grab the body but couldnt grip it, so he switched to the neck. This little guy is bird crazy, always has been... He was handled pigeons, doves, ducks and geese.
 
#15 ·
As Wayne said you dont want to nick the dog until it is 1/3 to 1/2 way down the line. That is how R. Stawski shows it in his video Fowl Dawgs 2 reason behind the whole thing is to get the dog to pick up speed as most dogs slow way up when doing T & Double T work, as they are trying to anticipate the whistle sit.
 
#21 · (Edited)
grnhd, the quote was about using a hide during training. I use it in very specific training sessions which emphasize focus, control and responsiveness. I don't use it when doing advanced marking.....just in expectation drills and maintenance. The original OP is dealing with a very young pup where the process of steadying is just beginning.

By the time my dogs are actually hunting, the expectation of "I am available whenever you need me." is well established (from training). When I am hunting...the dog's release depends on the situation. I can either give them a call name release or say "here". The fully trained dog understands the difference (in theory). ;)

If I am field hunting geese, I will call the dog from his/her hide which is almost always near (behind) my layout blind and then send them. However, on a duck hunt late this fall, my dog was placed about a hundred yards away from me in his hide. In that situation, I released him directly to head for a downed, long fall, crippled teal.

To provide some balance in training vs. hunting, here are photos of those two situations.

goose hunt hide positioning with Daisy


duck hunting Gunny in a hide at position #1 and me at #2
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top