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left-sided and both sided dogs

24K views 153 replies 55 participants last post by  Pattie 
#1 ·
Who are some well-known pros and others that train their FT dogs to be one-sided? I am curious.

KM
 
#3 ·
LOL that is a good start!
 
#6 ·
I have been told by at least 6 pro's, that the 2 sided training is done at the request of the dog's owner. They say it takes many years to properly read a dog from one side and that to effectively read a dog from 2 sides takes a long time. This is just for one dog, let alone 15 or 20.
 
#10 ·
I prefer two sided. Jim Gonia was asked about it and replied "yes I think it is the way to go...I just haven't had a dog live long enough to train on the other side"

Bill
 
#11 ·
This is interesting! I thought most trainers taught two sided heeling.... FWIW, I dont.
 
#15 ·
If I was ambidextrous I might give it a try but after forty years I am not always accurate on one side, pushing and pulling from the left has served me well, why change now?
 
#17 · (Edited)
I would sure like to hear some thoughts from the pros, especially the added length of time teaching it. My first dog only heals to one side, but I have two others that im training two sided healing and it is definitely taking more time, and work to get a nice clean heal.
 
#40 ·
After teaching them to heel on the left, walk them down a fence line on the right - tightly. They learn it pretty quick.
 
#18 ·
I run my dogs on the left.

I believe that there is a theoretical advantage to running on both. But, I have not been able to utilize it. (A long time ago, I had two two sided dogs - brothers FC/AFC Freeridin Wowie Zowie and FC/AFC Sky Hy Husker Power)

In my judging assignments, I have found that few handlers are able to make the theoretical advantage an actual advantage.

Until I retire, and I can train 5 days a week on a full time basis, I will remain one sided. But, I think that it requires a ton of practice time to realize any benefit on game day. And maybe not even then.
 
#19 ·
With regard to left healing, of which i suppose by far is the most common, why the LEFT and not the RIGHT? Considering most shooters (UKC) are right handed if healed on the left shooting right shouldered you can't exactly see the dog that well....right? If healed on the left, and shooting left shouldered you have 100% view of your dog at heel while "on he bucket". Fortuantely i'm left handed so it works well....not to mention you'd get a better "gun follow", but never understood why a right hander would want a left healer. I'm sure there is a reason i'm not aware of. (?)
 
#32 ·
I started my dog out when he was a pup working off of both sides and he runs equally as well on both sides. I find it comes in handy on poison bird blinds I line him up on the side the poison bird is on then after it's down I say dead and have him go to my other side to run the blind when he come back I then have him heel on the side the poison bird is and send him for that.
 
#36 · (Edited)
I try to use it. I think it's helped me occasionally, for the things already mentioned. Of course there have probably been times where it hurt too. I try to do it in training enough that the dog is at least comfortable with being there. Helps in pushing a dog to the right.

You sometimes see a test where handlers think having the dog on the right is an advantage. Someone usually goes up with a one sided (left) dog and tries to get him to sit on the right, the dog sits then realizes where he is and goes to the left. Dogs that aren't used to it sure don't want to be there.

If you see he's committed to going where other dogs have headed and failed, if he won't move you can at least try the other side. Might give him a chance to see things your way. Kind of a "break the spell" thing.

Most of the big name handlers I see are usually left side only. Impressive to watch a Pro run all the dogs. I have trouble recognizing who's who, let alone remember which are two sided.

I remember reading long ago that dogs are heeled on the left because most shooters are right handed and the gun is on the right.
 
#38 ·
granted my guy is only 11 months and just going through TT but i have found two sided very advantageous. in doubles and triples i send him from right for right bird and left for left bird. maybe this isnt what its intended for but it works for him. when he is returning from a mark i stick my hand to the side i wont him to heal to and he does. if i dont stick my hand out (for example after picking up go bird on a triple) i let him pick the side (im assuming this is secondary selection) and line him up for that side's respective bird.

i could see later down the road where the poison bird blind heeling trick could help down the road

one question that i did think of is if on marks if after the retrieve and on his return i give him a here whistle and motion for the side i want him on is that considered handling and a fail? without a whistle is it?

i would like to know if the way im using the 2 sided is correct as well?
 
#39 ·
I think it is advantageous, and not for blocking the flyer. that never works. It's for blocking where a dog has been ie: the young derby dog that wants to look short and to the left again at the flyer station. Step up on them for the memory bird and talk them into it. Same for an AA dog.

When the birds are going down, and let's say you have an out of order flyer to the left, and the last bird down is to the right, you can use your leg to push their pointed little heads back to the right.... gets their attention back to the right.

Definitely, some people are better at using it than others... and it can get a lot of over analysis. But, I want every tool in my took box I can get.
 
#44 ·
I keep reading about pushing with 2 sided dogs. Never does anybody say a thing about pulling them & I have heard that 2 sided dogs just don't pull.
I'm not sure what is intended by the term "never".

If one trains to push and pull with a 2-sided dog in training, he will likely find that his dog will push and pull in a trial. If one does not train to push and pull with a 2-sided dog then he should not expect him to do it in a trial.

I would agree, however, that if one has a 2-sided dog, they will naturally, in a trial, tend to work on a push, more than a pull since it is a more positive, strong-side move. If one only trains one-sided, they have no choice but to rely upon a pull, in situations where a 2-sided dog may not need to that as much.
 
#42 ·
My opinion only, and you all are invited to disagree:

All 4 of my dogs that I handle on a daily basis are 2-sided. I have found it extremely easy to teach, if taught from the beginning. (only one of these runs trials. Only one is eligible. The rest are just for fun)

An older dog who is one-sided can be a real bear to teach otherwise. I don't think it is worth the effort to dog or handler.

If you take a 7 week old puppy and do all the basics yourself, and do the transition, and do the advanced training, 100% yourself, it is not a big deal. Even if you have ALWAYS done one side (with previous dog experience), you and the pup, together, will become comfortable with both sides equally, if that is how you train. I personally believe one can become quite proficient as a handler of a 2-sided dog, if they start from scratch doing it all from start to finish 2-sided with a new pup.

If you are one-sided by habit, and you have someone else help with the training, you will likely not have enough exposure to become confident and accustomed to 2-sided work.

Chris
 
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