Simple Answer Jen,
As Lisa Van Lou, or as Jerry called her Lisa Dam Who?, used to type,
Many, Many, Many of us do “Yard work” and “Field Work” on the same day. Just like how most all of your flow charts are split in half? Many of us start the day with some yard OB and whatever we have for our own “Work with me” Drills in our lawn. Pull into the driveway of half the members of every retriever club represented on the RTF and you will see a random holding blind or two on the back lawn. The same with arriving at your favorite training field. I have set up a wagon wheel more than once while waiting for training partners to arrive. You need to use caution not to over train or over drill. It can be done. You need to be mindful of the progression and what you are building upon. You can definitely do more than one thing a day as long as you are not hop-scotching through the flow chart of the program you are using.
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The TRT stuff is not super fresh, but the pattern blinds teach dog to line to the known destinations and to learn angle backs. The drills you mention I believe are much more difficult for dog to learn, at least they were for my dog, and so for me it makes sense to do them after dog learns lining and angle backs from doing pattern blinds. I believe their intention is more for lining up for blinds (not marks), and so it also doesn't make sense to use them to teach lining for marks in a young dog.
Newbie regards, FWIW.
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Casting Wagon Wheel right after a solid dose of TT.
then after acting WW, straight to cold blinds.
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I like the dog to be able to move with me, so right out of t-pattern the wagon-wheel in introduced, sometimes during the t-pattern. I run them both as separate sessions, it becomes tedious to try and line a dog up on any blinds when they don't know how to move with yah. I'll often use the t-pattern stakes as lining poles and teach different angled straight backs to finish up a session. So for me, the wagon-wheel movement is usually taught as an extension of heel. I can't really see how it would effect a dog negatively, teaching it either way. Wagon is close up work, pattern blinds are far out. only positive for wagon-wheel first is the trained dog will already know how to move with you in your pattern field.
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get your dog out and TRAIN! caryalsobrook 2013
I don't mean to try to lead you away from whatever practices you've chosen. I'm only answering your question about these two procedures. I don't think both in the same session is a good idea, but I do think both during the same developmental period is fine. Start your sessions with marks. Then spend a bit of time on WWLD. Then something involving marks, if you can, before running your pattern.
I like pattern blinds, and use them during development of all dogs. I do not believe in over using them, however, and I don't use them for lining purposes at all. WWLD has two essential goals; moving right and left with the handler, and learning to take an initial line. The actual lining portion doesn't really enter the drill until you have moved on to the 16-bumper, 2 tiered drill.
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I am through straight patterns and am going to patterns w/ diversions. Crosby does not lock on at all, so I am going to teach him wagon wheel tomorrow, and continue in the pattern field .
I don't believe there is a problem doing ww and patterns at the same time,but know that you doing ww lining is not going to fix your live bird crate issue. EXPOSURE to live birds, gunners and training those elements fixes that
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The following is JMO:
In my experience, a pattern blind drill is ultimately a 3 legged, widely spaced set of blinds that are "identified" by white piles (at first). They are built ONE leg at a time (usually outside leg to outside leg with middle being last) from up close and gradually lenthened to become "taught" blinds. The blinds themselves are used as a bridge between other known pile drills, like that used during TT, and real cold blinds. So....precise lining isn't what you're looking for, but rather momentum. Too much fussing to get proper lines can cause bugging, so just kick'em off and handle. Follow them out if you have to and strive for success. As the drill proceeds to a point where the piles are orange bumpers and the pile locations "taught", you will hopefully be getting good momentum, with improving casting and lining.
Some people don't use pattern blinds. I happen to like them and have several pattern fields I will judiciously return to, even when the dog is older, to work on casting problems, lining problems, poison birds, etc.
I think what Jennifer is referring to is her line mechanics, not "lining". The lining drill itself is called Wagon Wheel....the casting drill is called 8 Handed Cast and used to teach beginning literal casting (angles, etc).
I don't think WW would hurt, after you get some good momentum flowing.
Being perfectly candid. If this were my dog.
- I'd stop running tests and stop trying to shore up problems that are beginning to pop up by running the dog in tests/trials it's not ready for.
- Stick with the chosen program (TRT) and start building a dog with a firm foundation
- Instill proper line mechanics (such as sit means sit, learning how to pick out long guns, basic derby marking drills, etc).
- Stop looking to build a better mousetrap while pushing the dog. The program exists in the sequence it does for a reason.
Several people have suggested waiting and establishing good basics, but it seems to fall on deaf ears.
This is rapidly becoming an example of what NOT to do with your first dog.
Last edited by KNorman; 04-01-2013 at 05:39 PM.
There are many successful field trial dogs who never saw a so called pattern blind