I would put a pit blind in the middle penninsula on #2 and cover it up completely where a dog could run over it in the off season. Might even think about hauling dirt to put on top and then removing it come duck season. I would round some of the corners on number two. You only need a few square corners to teach cheats. I would angle in one of the outer long banks to make a long sweeping "point". Teaches a dog that casting into the water isn't always black and white. Islands are nice, but not necessary. If you depress the penninsula about five yards from the end it will appear as an island when the pond is full and like solid land when not full. You can also wade out to it when full to trim it.
Try to build it so that it gives different looks when the water level is going down, especially if you are not going to pump it. Down here in OK you have to have a well and a pump on a small pond due to water evaporation. Just a few thoughts.
for dog training ponds i'm not so good at but for duck ponds (if you are indeed going to use it for one) then remember one thing. ducks dont like to land on straight sided bodies of water. it's un-natural and will stick out. i assume your drawing is rough but just keep in mind the banks need to be jagged and not just a straight line. little cuts here, little peninsulas there, rounded edges etc
duck hunting wise i'd go #2 probably same for training as well but like i said i'm not up to snuff on building training grounds. i'd go with pit blind on the peninsula for those days the wind wouldn't cooperate for your planned NE corner blind. keep prevailing winds in mind too