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Thread: pup is glued to me

  1. #1

    Default pup is glued to me

    I have a six and almost half blm. He is a great pup, already has two NAHRA started and one AKC junior passes. However I have been working on his collar conditioning. Well he does great with his sit, heel, and here. When I have him sit I can usually walk 60 70 yards away and call him here. He does great and hustles to me. So I have been trying to get him to walk ahead of me and explore while working on his here. So I blow the whistle a couple of times right after or right as i nick him and he was doing great. Well now he doesn't want to leave my side cause he doesn't want to get away far enough to get a nick and here call. I was trying to only call him back if with here command when he ranged out too far or if I wanted to change directions. I was thinking about taking him out with my other dog because she will range out about 30 40 yards and I can bring her in easily. Is that a good idea? I really just want him to hustle to me when I give the here command. I upland hunt a lot so I don't want him attached to my hip too much. Minor problems, but I just don't want to create any bad habits. Should I go about it differently? Thanks for your read!
    My pup-Kanyon's Rambo With A Cause (Rambo)
    And my 2 year old- Ollie (my lab husky mix, she is a pheasant tracking machine! And the reason I started bird hunting!)

  2. #2
    Senior Member copterdoc's Avatar
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    Don't use the e-collar for recall in the field. Just in the yard.
    Have it on the dog. But don't turn it on.

    You can teach the dog to quarter in the field, by planting dead birds and letting the dog find them on it's own.
    If recall is an issue, use rope not electricity.

  3. #3

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    FYI will still retrieve his single marks great. It is just when we are walking. I totally get why he would stay by my side. I just think I should maybe change while we are early in the process. Also I had been going by tri-tronics book, by Jim dobbs I believe, for collars conditioning. After reading around it sounds like it is very out dated with the direct vs indirect pressure.
    My pup-Kanyon's Rambo With A Cause (Rambo)
    And my 2 year old- Ollie (my lab husky mix, she is a pheasant tracking machine! And the reason I started bird hunting!)

  4. #4

  5. #5
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    When you cc to here its only natural for the dog not to want to leave your side. It's the safe spot. Get a helper and cc the dog correctly.

  6. #6
    Super Moderator FOM's Avatar
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    When I let my dogs explore, that's what I do - I will sneak in 2-3 "here" in an hour walk, but that's it and I also do it with the lowest possible correction/reinforcement level as possible to get the desired reaction. I will also mix in several "here" with no correction/reinforcement. I will also use a happy bumper toss when they come to me when called. I'll toss a single one, then take delivery and stick in my back pocket and make them go on and play - they have to also learn that just cause I have a bumper they don't get it thrown and they aren't to jump/grab for it....but the happy bumper reinforces the "here" command. I do this with all my young puppies - never had an issue with "here" and I do not limit here training to the yard - they need to come ANY time I call them - I also over lap the whistle with this even though at the beginning they have no idea why I'm blowing the whistle.
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  7. #7
    Senior Member HNTFSH's Avatar
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    Agreed above and put some birds out in a field and take a walk with a release word to associate hunt. There needs to be something of value in it for the dog to stretch out and at this point he sees it as risky. Like copterdoc said - separate yard work from field work right now.
    We shoot dogs with a Canon

  8. #8
    Senior Member Hunt'EmUp's Avatar
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    Of course he's gonna want to stick by you, he thinks your setting him up, your his safety net. A dog's gonna get nervous when you CC whether it's to here, sit, heel, etc. . You've introduced Lag, with the collar, the point of CC is to teach the dog to work through that lag. In CCing, You use the collar sparingly, at this point it's done to introduce lag, Not to Correct. Correction to actual commands will come later right now your just teaching him to work with the collar. In CCing you might only use one actual shock a session, there will be a lot of freebies, praise, and different methods of command enforcement (choke chain, whip etc.). When they get really nervous after collar pressure, they are going to be slow, you may have to talk him back into things, but you need to work him back to normal-comfortable before you even think about another collar use, and always end a session when they are normal-comfortable.

    You need to get his confidence back up and lay off the corrections to here, until he's back to his normal adventurous self. He needs to be encouraged to explore, and given mostly semi-freebie commands with no-collar. If he's not reliable on the here have him drag a cord, so you can get him back without collar pressure. Still I might do most CCing on lead with Sit and Heel, where you can control the dog and keep him moving forward. CCing a lot with Here, will make him, continuously worried and wanting to stay by you, not something I want to encourage in a Upland dog. You don't want to convince a pup that there are monsters in the field, you want a very bold upland dog, thus I probably wouldn't CC much with the Here command. Instead I'd correct for the Here command later after when he's very determined (aka becoming A$$-ish) in the field and he's finished CCing. It is important for a dog to come when he's called, however you don't want to mess with his boldness while hunting. Boldness is one of those things it's hard to put back in, once it's taken it out. You've got to balance it, remember you can always correct later.
    Last edited by Hunt'EmUp; 06-05-2013 at 12:28 PM.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member John Lash's Avatar
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    Get Lardy's collar conditioning dvd. Evan's may be just as good, haven't seen it.
    John Lash

    "If you run Field Trials, you learn to swallow your disappointment quickly."

    "Field trials are not a game for good dogs. They're for great dogs with great training." E. Graham

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