This is in reference to Dennis' article in the first edition of the year dealing with marks and blinds tight to guns. I need to improve this skill....or rather my dogs do. Some questions:
This is in reference to the first set up in the article, two guns.
A. When setting up the double, short bird thrown to the right as a single, followed by long bird thrown left, then making it a double; when teaching, the far gunner should be hidden until after the short single has been picked up? Then when doing the long bird, should the gunner from the first stay in place? Water the best way to decide if the gunners are visible or not?
B. if the dog flares the gun going for the long bird, you should increase the distance from the gunner? I have a dog that does flare some and I would like to fix this. At what point do you hold the dog responsible for their flaring? They have not be corrected off the gunner.
C. If, when setting it up for the double with this scenario, the dog picks up the short bird, then goes for the long bird, but just before the gunner, veers to the old fall (short bird) what would you do?
I train alone or with a small group. We are all amateurs though do train with trainers some. We tend to default to minimal interference (in fear of screwing the dog up) but I want to reduce the number of things I'm doing wrong and be more pro-active. I want dogs that go tight and straight by the gunner, for a mark or blind. I want to reduce flare.
These are dogs training for master that are working multiples and blinds. I don't do field trials so I'm not sure if the gunner being visible or not will make a difference as to how to train.
Thoughts and discussion?