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Thread: Marking...question from Retrievers Online article from 2013 first issue

  1. #1
    Senior Member suepuff's Avatar
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    Default Marking...question from Retrievers Online article from 2013 first issue

    This is in reference to Dennis' article in the first edition of the year dealing with marks and blinds tight to guns. I need to improve this skill....or rather my dogs do. Some questions:

    This is in reference to the first set up in the article, two guns.

    A. When setting up the double, short bird thrown to the right as a single, followed by long bird thrown left, then making it a double; when teaching, the far gunner should be hidden until after the short single has been picked up? Then when doing the long bird, should the gunner from the first stay in place? Water the best way to decide if the gunners are visible or not?

    B. if the dog flares the gun going for the long bird, you should increase the distance from the gunner? I have a dog that does flare some and I would like to fix this. At what point do you hold the dog responsible for their flaring? They have not be corrected off the gunner.

    C. If, when setting it up for the double with this scenario, the dog picks up the short bird, then goes for the long bird, but just before the gunner, veers to the old fall (short bird) what would you do?

    I train alone or with a small group. We are all amateurs though do train with trainers some. We tend to default to minimal interference (in fear of screwing the dog up) but I want to reduce the number of things I'm doing wrong and be more pro-active. I want dogs that go tight and straight by the gunner, for a mark or blind. I want to reduce flare.

    These are dogs training for master that are working multiples and blinds. I don't do field trials so I'm not sure if the gunner being visible or not will make a difference as to how to train.

    Thoughts and discussion?

    Sue Puff
    Sue Puffenbarger
    Wirtz, VA
    www.boynelabradors.com

  2. #2
    Senior Member Wayne Nutt's Avatar
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    Sue I posted a three or four videos of me and Rowdy doing the tight lines marks. Might want to look at the comments that I got in response to the post. I will look up the link.
    http://www.retrievertraining.net/for...-tighter-lines

    http://www.retrievertraining.net/for...dy+tight+lines
    Last edited by Wayne Nutt; 08-07-2013 at 03:59 PM.
    Wayne Nutt
    Go Nutts with dog training

    HRCH Patton's Parker Co. Shadow "Shadow"
    HRCH Clineline Hijacker "Jack"
    HRCH Marks a Lot Midnight Hudson, SH "Hudson"-retired
    Castile Creek's Rawhide, SH "Rowdy"

  3. #3
    Senior Member suepuff's Avatar
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    Thanks Wayne, will check it out. Haven't been on much lately....so I missed those.

    Sue Puff
    Sue Puffenbarger
    Wirtz, VA
    www.boynelabradors.com

  4. #4
    Senior Member Breck's Avatar
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    Sue
    Just 1 comment for now.
    When teaching marking concepts it would serve your group well to train like a field trial group. All guns visible (until retired) or hidden behind umbrella if lesson focus is on another gun. All bird boys in white.
    Trying to do conceptual stuff with hidden guns, camo and stuff like that is not a good idea.
    More answers later.
    Cheers.
    "Darla" AFC Candlewoods Lil Smokin Tequila (2002-2013)(fondly remembered)
    "Smoke" Smokin Auggies Menace, QAA (2003- )(retired nut case, ask Rando)
    "Simba" Humewood Simba (1999-2014)(my 1st dog)

    .
    Per favore, non mi rompere i coglioni.
    Grazie




  5. #5
    Senior Member Erin O'Brien's Avatar
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    I think what he was trying to get across is you don't want to inadvertently teach your dog to not look long. So if you're gonna shoot them as singles and shoot the short bird first, then you want the long gun retired until you're ready to shoot it. If you're going to shoot the long gun 1st, you can have both guns standing out. Or if you've already done the short mark, you can have both guns out. He says something similar on his training alone video when doing the all in one triple.

  6. #6
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    Some have used BB blinds to get the dog going close to a gunner ...I use a diversion drill and blinds to get the point across....Have you tried a chair drill to get the dog running close to objects..? Steve S
    "Your dog learns as much by doing his work right,by your praise and encouragement, as he does by your displeasure and correction." DLWalters

  7. #7
    Senior Member suepuff's Avatar
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    Thanks Guys! Doing the above drills, just saw Dennis's article though and was intrigued about having another tool for the toolbox. Flares aren't bad I'd just like to improve. Thanks for all the suggestions, both here and private!

    Sue Puff
    Sue Puffenbarger
    Wirtz, VA
    www.boynelabradors.com

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