Pulling and Choke Chains - Page 3
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Thread: Pulling and Choke Chains

  1. #21
    Senior Member 1tulip's Avatar
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    I don't have any ax to grind... but I have noticed that Mike Lardy uses a choke collar on the dogs doing basic Obedience in TRT.

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  3. #22
    Senior Member Henlee's Avatar
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    I have trained this a couple of times and I think I have a fairly soft method that seems to work and is quite simple. When I take my dog out for a walk and he starts to pull I first slow down as the leash begins to tighten and then stop as soon as he pulls. If need be I set my feet and make sure he can not move an inch when he is pulling. in the dogs I have tried this with they have not tried to pull after they see I am stopped and not going anywhere. As soon as the leash gets slack in it I then start to walk again. I try to remain as consistent as I can to this. The learned lesson is that a slack leash allows the dog to move forward again. Most dogs seem to get it very quick. There is no snapping of the leash and all the pressure is applied by the dog in regards to neck injury. I hope this helps.
    "It’s hard to win an argument with a smart person, but it’s damn near impossible to win an argument with a stupid person." - Bill Murray

  4. #23
    Senior Member twall's Avatar
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    The pinch/prong collar is nice because the dog self-corrects, timing and intensity.

    "Choke' collars are very effective training tools but most people don't know how to size them or use them correctly. To fit properly they should sit right behind the dogs head. Most used are too big and slide down the neck where a dog has more muscle and it takes more effort to give a proper correction. Link size on the chain also is important. The smaller the link size the bigger the correction. Think of someone poking you with a needle vs their finger.

    When you use the correct size collar in the correct position it is very easy to give a proper correct with a 'pop' of the lead. When a dog gets a proper correction it will not pull or tug on the lead.

    Tom
    Tom Wall

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  6. #24
    Senior Member John Goode's Avatar
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    I know of dog groomers who are anti-e-collar but use prong collars for "self control"
    John

  7. #25
    Senior Member windycanyon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henlee View Post
    I have trained this a couple of times and I think I have a fairly soft method that seems to work and is quite simple. When I take my dog out for a walk and he starts to pull I first slow down as the leash begins to tighten and then stop as soon as he pulls. If need be I set my feet and make sure he can not move an inch when he is pulling. in the dogs I have tried this with they have not tried to pull after they see I am stopped and not going anywhere. As soon as the leash gets slack in it I then start to walk again. I try to remain as consistent as I can to this. The learned lesson is that a slack leash allows the dog to move forward again. Most dogs seem to get it very quick. There is no snapping of the leash and all the pressure is applied by the dog in regards to neck injury. I hope this helps.
    If you look at the video I posted above, this is really what it's all about. That was a rescue dog in the video who had no training.

  8. #26
    Senior Member EdA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1tulip View Post
    I don't have any ax to grind... but I have noticed that Mike Lardy uses a choke collar on the dogs doing basic Obedience in TRT.
    So is it the teacher or the tool?

  9. #27
    Senior Member Sharon Potter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eda View Post
    so is it the teacher or the tool?
    ^^^^ nailed it.
    Sharon Potter

    www.redbranchkennels.net

    Chesapeake Bay Retrievers...too many to list.

    Team Huntsmith

  10. #28
    Senior Member TBell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henlee View Post
    I have trained this a couple of times and I think I have a fairly soft method that seems to work and is quite simple. When I take my dog out for a walk and he starts to pull I first slow down as the leash begins to tighten and then stop as soon as he pulls. If need be I set my feet and make sure he can not move an inch when he is pulling. in the dogs I have tried this with they have not tried to pull after they see I am stopped and not going anywhere. As soon as the leash gets slack in it I then start to walk again. I try to remain as consistent as I can to this. The learned lesson is that a slack leash allows the dog to move forward again. Most dogs seem to get it very quick. There is no snapping of the leash and all the pressure is applied by the dog in regards to neck injury. I hope this helps.

    x2 If the pup is pulling, stop! No chokes, pinch collars, etc. needed.
    Tammy Bell

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  11. #29
    Senior Member KwickLabs's Avatar
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    "There is no snapping of the leash and all the pressure is applied by the dog in regards to neck injury."

    Frankly, I'd rather be the one in charge of "regards to neck injury"....not the dog. Then again, when training a retriever there many different "yellow brick roads".
    Last edited by KwickLabs; 12-02-2014 at 08:17 AM.
    Jim Boyer KwickLabsii.com

  12. #30
    Senior Member TBell's Avatar
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    As long as other end of leash is in your hand, you are in charge. You are simply stopping any forward movement when the pup is pulling. Once pup stops pulling against you, proceed. If pup pulls again, stop. Simple and very understandable by dog.....black and white.

    Pups catches on fairly quickly that he will only get to go at your pace, otherwise, everything comes to a halt. No fancy choke, pinch, or e-collar needed, simply patience.
    Tammy Bell

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