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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
my lab will not run a straight line while running the blind portion of the drill. she is avoiding my son who is hiding behind a blind (throwing stations) who is throwing the bumper for the mark retrieve portion of the drill.
she does not have any problem with executing the drill as far as picking up the correct bumper. its as though she is avoiding the throwing stations (doesnt matter which direction that he throws the bumper, over, under, to, and away).
what can i do to correct this?
 

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Have you given a strong correction near any of the bird station/holding blinds?
 

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my lab will not run a straight line while running the blind portion of the drill. she is avoiding my son who is hiding behind a blind (throwing stations) who is throwing the bumper for the mark retrieve portion of the drill.
she does not have any problem with executing the drill as far as picking up the correct bumper. its as though she is avoiding the throwing stations (doesnt matter which direction that he throws the bumper, over, under, to, and away).
what can i do to correct this?
Several things. But I have a couple questions first. Why is he hiding when a visible gun is part of what makes the drill work to its potential? How much time did you spend having your dog lining the pile before beginning to put guns in the field on this drill? Is he throwing birds, or bumpers?

Evan
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I have done the drill without a blind for him to hide in and i got the same result, thought it might change the outcome. This dog has lined blinds before, never thought to put out white stakes and just run the blind without a throw. He is throwing bumpers.
 

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I'm Adrain you're confused about the drill. Do you have the material explaining g it?
 

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I have done the drill without a blind for him to hide in and i got the same result, thought it might change the outcome.
That depends on what outcome you're seeking. The purpose of the drill is to give your dog a basic education in running blinds in association with marks, and to do that in the four standard diversion mark concepts. Two important items make that work; visible guns, and real birds. Beating the drill by hiding the guns and using bumpers instead of birds goes against those objectives.
This dog has lined blinds before, never thought to put out white stakes and just run the blind without a throw.
There are lining drills like that to deflare, and that's good training also. But it's not the same thing as diversion mark training.
He is throwing bumpers.
If you have birds, use them It makes a real difference, escpecially to a quality dog. I think it's good to simplify the application as things go along to make it possible for the dog to learn. But dumbing down the drill in order to beat it is not the same thing.

As I understand your explanation, your dog is flaring the gun. Great! Time to train the dog! Send the dog for the mark. When the dog delivers the bird, send for the blind. Let the dog flare and handle. Instead of casting, walking our on line to a point even with the gun (should be right next to the gun), call the dog to you. Let her know it's okay to be there. Send the dog to the pile from there. Do this several times, each time backing up from the pile.

Begin again. It is not important at all that you run all the marks (40,60, and 80 yards) in a single session. What is important is to train the dog. Progress is generally over a course of a week or so with this drill. Sometimes several weeks. No poison bird work until this is all worked out in standard order.

Evan
 
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