[lablover]

You train alone most of the time.

You need to start showing your dog some fliers, but you are retired and training friends are working.

Here's my thought.

Set the dog on the line beside a chair, that has a radio with volume turned up in the chair.

Use ATV or walk out some distance with the flier and shotgun, and get ready.

Using the radio you are carrying, Tell the dog to SIT & MARK. Dog should hear this, and pay attention. Throw flier and shoot it, and if dog has not broken, release dog using the radio you are carrying. If dog breaks, you should be able to beat the dog to the bird.

What say ye??

 

[badbullgator]

There is someone who post on here that does all their marks this way. I don't remember who though.

 

[Steve Shaver]

I guess if that's the only way you can do it it's better than nothing but not the same as in an actual testing or hunting situation where you would be standing by your dog. We use fake bird boys in the field so why not build a fake handler to stand by the dog. Kinda like a scare crow or a scare Richard if you will :lol: . Maybe a blow up doll from an adult novelty store with your close on it :lol:
Other solutions would be to use a winger or throw and shoot from the line. Or come on out to UT, I'll shoot for ya.

 

[Pete]

Lablover

I would definately not use the radio. If you always send on the radio he will be acustomed to going on the sound of the radio coming on.
If you are on line waiting for your birds to be thrown at a test,,, And a worker or someone comes on the radio which happens way to much,,, your dog has a good chance of breaking unless you spend time proofing for this scenerio.


I shoot most all of my fliers. I just call the dogs name from where I am at. The further away the louder I am.
I can see where a radio can mean trouble unless alot of extra work is done

pete

 

[Chris S.]

A friend of mine uses live wing clipped shacked birds thrown from a winger to simulate the flyer. The only trick is the duck getting out of the pouch. You can purchase the special pouches that hold live birds to prevent this.

I know it’s not as exciting as gun fire and all, that but you would be next to your dog if needed.

 

[ducksoup]

See article on training alone on RetrieversONLINE website (free) -- might have some good ideas for you

 

[lablover]

A friend of mine uses live wing clipped shacked birds thrown from a winger to simulate the flyer. The only trick is the duck getting out of the pouch. You can purchase the special pouches that hold live birds to prevent this.

I know it’s not as exciting as gun fire and all, that but you would be next to your dog if needed.

Here's how to do wing clipped shackeled ducks. Go to your vet or the drug store and get some self adhesive tape. Very thin & flexible.

Tie the birds legs together tight so they cannot use them while in the pouch. Wrap the birds head with the seld adhesive tape so that you fully cover the eyes. Place bird in winger pouch. Now bird cannot see a way to escape, so they don't use their legs to get out of the pouch. This does work, but some ducks will escape upon occasion. But they don't go far from the winger.

Thanks for the comments. I've heard of folks using radios for this with good results and poor results, and some fair results. This would only be an occasional thing.... NOT an every day training thing. I do know that one's voice does sound different on the radio that it does in person.
It might still be worth the effort for an occasional "back yard" flier. I'll report back when I test it.

 

[Steve Hester]

A friend of mine uses live wing clipped shacked birds thrown from a winger to simulate the flyer. The only trick is the duck getting out of the pouch. You can purchase the special pouches that hold live birds to prevent this.

I know it’s not as exciting as gun fire and all, that but you would be next to your dog if needed.

If you use the pouches made for throwing live birds (shackled of course), and a winger that shoots a .209 primer, you should be in business.

 

[Angie B]

Lablover

I would definately not use the radio. If you always send on the radio he will be acustomed to going on the sound of the radio coming on.
If you are on line waiting for your birds to be thrown at a test,,, And a worker or someone comes on the radio which happens way to much,,, your dog has a good chance of breaking unless you spend time proofing for this scenerio.


I shoot most all of my fliers. I just call the dogs name from where I am at. The further away the louder I am.
I can see where a radio can mean trouble unless alot of extra work is done

pete

Why would a radio be a problem? If the radio clicking on or being scratchy causes the dog to break, then work on it. The clicking on of the radio is the precursor to the send. Much like a hand down before the send.

All line noise is good noise. The more of it the better. What better way to practice focusing through distractions?

Angie

 

[2tall]

Stupid question 102. If you are in the field shooting the flier, and send the dog remotely, who or where does he return the duck to :?: :?:

 

[Pete]

Angie
To much work involve for me
You may have to correct the dog for breaking and then you might have to force the dog to go.
Just being silly right there

Its extra work thats all.. first you don't want him to go at the sound of the radio then you do.. Thats why I said that this situation need more work,,thats all.... Cold outside,,, just makin conversation

 

[Angie B]

Stupid question 102. If you are in the field shooting the flier, and send the dog remotely, who or where does he return the duck to :?: :?:

Not a stupid question at all. The dog picks up and takes it to the handler, then the handler sends the dog back to the line. The dogs catch on real fast. You can do multiple mark set-ups this way also. The dog delivers the go bird, is recent to mat. Handler walks to next mark to be picked up and sends dog, dog delivers to handler, yadayadayada.

Angie

 

[lablover]

Stupid question 102. If you are in the field shooting the flier, and send the dog remotely, who or where does he return the duck to :?: :?:

There are no stupid questions.

Really I had not thought of that, but see 2 choices. Either let the dog return to you in the field, or as dog goes to bird, walk/ride back to the line.

 

[john fallon]

Throw the mark(s) , or shoot the Flier, or do both.
Then return to the line to send the dog.
If you don't believe me.....

Just ask "LEN" regards

john

 

[Angie B]

Throw the mark(s) , or shoot the Flier, or do both.
Then return to the line to send the dog.
If you don't believe me.....

Just ask "LEN" regards

john

If ya got 20 lbs to lose, this works too....

Angie

 

[DuckTruk]

Why would a radio be a problem? If the radio clicking on or being scratchy causes the dog to break, then work on it. The clicking on of the radio is the precursor to the send. Much like a hand down before the send.

All line noise is good noise. The more of it the better. What better way to practice focusing through distractions?

Angie

I agree partially. The more situations (or new noises) that you can expose the dog to, the better. However, if the dog is taught bad habits (breaking on the sound of the radio, not the voice). Then you've got to break the bad habit.

I had a pup that developed the habit of breaking when I dropped the whistle out of my mouth. It took a few days of breaking that habit before we were back on schedule.

Exposure to new and different things is key in training the dog.

 

[Angie B]

However, if the dog is taught bad habits (breaking on the sound of the radio, not the voice). Then you've got to break the bad habit.

Why would you teach a dog to break on the radio? It's not a habit until it's been allowed to become one. Habit meaning happening repeatedly. I love it! If my dog is going to break on something in training all the better so I can correct it. Never avoid a situation where you can teach a lesson!

I had a pup that developed the habit of breaking when I dropped the whistle out of my mouth. It took a few days of breaking that habit before we were back on schedule.

You should be thrilled for the opportunity to fix the association that your dog had. It's no different than putting your hand down on the send. If the dog breaks on the hand, then fix it.

Angie

 

[twall]

I do almost all of my training alone thses days.

With dead birds or fliers my dog sits remotely. More often than not I return to him to release him. With multiple marks he has to sit and watch me walk all over the field. If he breaks I can beat him to the bird. He almost never breaks. He does creep a little when I'm not at his side.

The only problem I have had is releasing him remotely at long distances when it is windy or otherwise hard form him to hear. His tendancy is to wait and make sure his is being released instead of breaking.

Tom

 

[DRAKEHAVEN]

I train alone because of location and schedule.

My method for handling dogs is like Angie posted earlier and also dog is on line with a mat, I put out chairs/stick men, drive out on ATV throw the marks double, triple, ABC drill stuff, drive back to the line send dog for marks.

Flyers will be shot from the line or close to it when the dog is returning with a bird from previously thrown marks. The flyer can the be a poison bird to a planted blind or eraser for a remaining mark.

I will also go out and throw the marks and release dog with voice (no radio) this will let you know how good they can really hear. Breaking is not a problem for me, I will blow a sit whistle, then throw the mark, wait for a 4 count and call dogs name.

Have done this for years and have never had line manner issues with any dogs. The only time I have had a dog break is when not training them and showing up at a trial and running off Pro's truck....4th series last dog, just did the water quad. Broke on the honor with a bye dog running.

John
________
Marysville Auto Plant