Pup is 11 mths old ff, cc, tt, through swim by. The pup is hard as nails, more fire than most can stand on marks. He runs as hard on marks as he can but seems to have a who cares half a$$ attitude on cold blinds. I've been using orange bumpers and dokens on his blind work. Recently thought about shackling pigeons just for his blind work to build momentum. Any thoughts, again he is new to cold blinds, we've done birdboy blinds, wagon wheel drills and he does fairly well, but send him out without the visuals he seems to lose all confidence.
Any ideas on building momentum on cold blinds with young dog
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You might try:
-short cold blinds designed for little or no handling to build confidence
-nice fresh birds at the end
-run blinds fresh out of the kennel to avoid fatigue
-time ( this is a young dog performing out of obedience it is up to you to make it fun)
Tim
-short cold blinds designed for little or no handling to build confidence
-nice fresh birds at the end
-run blinds fresh out of the kennel to avoid fatigue
-time ( this is a young dog performing out of obedience it is up to you to make it fun)
Tim
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I have the same problem at times...I ahve done pattern blinds too. Those seemed to help some, but he still goes very slow and seems unsure.
Robert
Robert
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Success builds confidence. I would recommend reading Jack Gwaltney's book focusing on the momentum chapters. Meditate on what he has written there, then go apply your thought into your training setups. I might look at my FTP work and revisit if the dog doesn't respond to the pressure when forced an route. Also, all blinds should be on flat featureless fields during the pattern work. Might want to stay on pattern field to help build momentum and teach the handling portion in a known situation. It sounds like the dog has a lot of drive, but he's unsure of what is being asked of him, simplify simplify, simplify. 70/30 rule of 70% success to keep momemtum up...
/Paul
/Paul
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try to find a long(> 100 yds) straight section of dirt road that is free of traffic. usually you can find this on a farm.
start by putting out white bumpers down the middle. from 20 yds to the end, about 15 yds apart. do your blind send routine for each send. remember to praise as momentum builds.
transition to start points further away from you til the dog is charging 100+ yds.
go back to first setup with orange. repeat progression.
go back to first setup, but put orange bumpers on the margins of the road, alternating sides. when you get to this point, if the dog is going to go all the way(you need to study it's momentum), let it. stop with a whistle and give an over to the closest bumper. if the dog starts to slow up, or starts to hunt, blow a whistle and handle BACK all the way.
finally, when you like what you're seeing, you can move the drill to a mowed field to transfer.
i think this will help a lot.-paul
start by putting out white bumpers down the middle. from 20 yds to the end, about 15 yds apart. do your blind send routine for each send. remember to praise as momentum builds.
transition to start points further away from you til the dog is charging 100+ yds.
go back to first setup with orange. repeat progression.
go back to first setup, but put orange bumpers on the margins of the road, alternating sides. when you get to this point, if the dog is going to go all the way(you need to study it's momentum), let it. stop with a whistle and give an over to the closest bumper. if the dog starts to slow up, or starts to hunt, blow a whistle and handle BACK all the way.
finally, when you like what you're seeing, you can move the drill to a mowed field to transfer.
i think this will help a lot.-paul
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I go out to a big, featureless field and put four 300-400 yard blinds out there, spread out, downwind.
The field is so large it encourages a dog to run "somewhere".
Whatever line the dog goes, you handle from there. You may switch from one blind to another blind, but by the time you do two or three, the dog's momentum builds. There is no right or wrong, just running to a blind.
I do these right out of pattern blinds and it really helps build "mo".
The field is so large it encourages a dog to run "somewhere".
Whatever line the dog goes, you handle from there. You may switch from one blind to another blind, but by the time you do two or three, the dog's momentum builds. There is no right or wrong, just running to a blind.
I do these right out of pattern blinds and it really helps build "mo".
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I would second what Howard said with the Birdboy blinds. Evan G. demonstrated them for us in a workshop this past weekend with 3 or 4 young dogs, and the transformation in confidence was amazing. The drill really built a fire under the nervous and uncertain dogs in just a few minutes.
BB blinds are covered in detail in Smartwork Vol. I .
BB blinds are covered in detail in Smartwork Vol. I .
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What is a birdboy blind?
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blinds
When we were going through FTP I would finish each session with a shackled pigeon, as he progressed to the "T" I would alternate when he would get the pigeon (always at the back pile). Now he is so excited by blinds I have to worry about him breaking on the blind
Rich
When we were going through FTP I would finish each session with a shackled pigeon, as he progressed to the "T" I would alternate when he would get the pigeon (always at the back pile). Now he is so excited by blinds I have to worry about him breaking on the blind
Rich
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Transition your dog.
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Bird Boy Blinds are a great start. The BB drops a bumper at the closest point, leaves it and moves to the second spot and waits until it's retrieved. No, the dog should not see it placed, but it should initially be a white bumper that the dog can see. As distance increases the visibility decreases.
When the first bumper is retrieved the BB drops another bumper and moves on to the next position and waits, and so on. As distances increase, and the dog begins to show an understanding of each cold blind, change to orange bumpers.
Extend distance by reading the dog's readiness.
Evan
Bird Boy Blinds are a great start. The BB drops a bumper at the closest point, leaves it and moves to the second spot and waits until it's retrieved. No, the dog should not see it placed, but it should initially be a white bumper that the dog can see. As distance increases the visibility decreases.
When the first bumper is retrieved the BB drops another bumper and moves on to the next position and waits, and so on. As distances increase, and the dog begins to show an understanding of each cold blind, change to orange bumpers.
Extend distance by reading the dog's readiness.
Evan
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Angie, pop ups
Thanks a million.
Wayne Dibbley
Angie, could you just describe how you've effectively used the pop up blinds...know what they are, but have a dog that would benefit from much of this thread, and would like the read exactly how you'd incorporate pop ups, post F T P.Angie B said:
Thanks a million.
Wayne Dibbley
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