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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On another thread I mentioned that I would start a new post with homemade winger information, so here it is.

First and foremost, Kwicklabs and other RTF members deserve the credit for the winger and electronics design. I just took their already established ideas and added what I thought were a few good modifications. Here are a few pictures and a general description of the ones I put together.

The back legs are 42", front legs are 48", the support leg is 30", the top is 18" square, and the base is 22" across.

A couple pictures show how I made bushings instead of rotating cylinders for the hinges. The bushings were made from 3/4" straight fittings cut in half, which fit over 3/4" pipe but inside the 1" T fittings. All of the PVC pipe is 3/4".

There are two pictures of the electronics boxes. The picture of the outside of the box shows a siren on the top, an on/off switch on the front, and a trailer connector on the side. The six channel transmitter is laying in front of box. The picture of the inside of the box shows the two channel receiver, a 12 volt rechargeable battery, and the wires that connect everything.

The primer assembly was made from the design on Kwicklabs website except I zip tied the rubber bands behind the 1/4" to 1/8" fitting so that I did not have to unhook them every time I reloaded. I also located the primer assembly on the base instead of one of the legs. The assembly is shown in a couple pictures.

The picture of the base shows the door lock actuator and the bow release system as well as another bushing system which allowed me to glue everything together instead of having loose joints held together with zip ties. The bushing system also allowed me to add short legs to get the release system up out of the grass.

The transmitter and receivers were ordered from Cary-mart, the batteries were ordered from Battery Shark, the sirens, switches, and wire were purchased at Radio Shack, the pipe, fittings, and hardware were purchased at Menards, the bow releases and door lock actuators were purchased from e-Bay, and the pouch, pulleys, and tubing came in a kit from Dogs Afield.

If you need more detail, let me know.

Kendall
 

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I didnt see the other thread yet but was wondering whats the farthest youve used them at and how far do you estimate they throw a wet mallard?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have used them at over 150 yards. Range depends upon the electronic equipment you buy. I bought a 1,000 meter transmitter and receivers with an external antenna. They are rated using a straight line of sight, which never happens. I would like to think they would go half their rated distance, which is twice what I need.

I didn't use a tape meansure, but stepping it off they will throw a wet mallard 23 yards. I had to add a shorter set of hooks to throw dummies as they would go sky high.

Thanks,
Kendall
 

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I made some of these 4 years ago and used them pretty heavily. For electronics I bought Dogtra with the idea of upgrading when i had the money. They worked great and definately served thier purpose. If you plan on upgrading to a zinger or Gunners up in the future look at buying your electronics now it allowed me to pay as I had money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Danny,no problem. If you have any questions let me know.

Eric, I have the same thought. I am going to use the homemade electronics for a while then upgrade to commercial electronics. There is nothing wrong with my electronics, but it would be more convenient if mine would match the rest of the training groups. I like the my winger's performance, so unless something changes I'm going to stick with them.
 

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Kendall,

What do you think these would cost to build without the electroniocs?
Would you be interested in building a couple of these to sell?
I have a couple of new Tri-Tronics releases but don't have wingers (and cannot really afford new), and don't really know how the releases would be hooked up, as I have never used these before as far as setting them up. A friend of mine has some, but I have only seen them in operation once and did not pay attention to how they hook up (and he does not live real close by).

Thanks
 

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It never ceases to amaze me that the 2004 thread on PVC wingers still generates interest. One of the early questions revolved around "How could this PVC structure/design hold up?" and Doesn't PVC flex too much?"

The prototype wingers that were built in 2004 are still working. The electronics are original, too. Here's a photo of the eight year olds used in a training session on April 17, 2012. They've been used extensively in the training of my four dogs. The only components replaced are the batteries and rubber bands.

"the four original Kwick Wingers"
 

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It never ceases to amaze me that the 2004 thread on PVC wingers still generates interest. One of the early questions revolved around "How could this PVC structure/design hold up?" and Doesn't PVC flex too much?"

The prototype wingers that were built in 2004 are still working. The electronics are original, too. Here's a photo of the eight year olds used in a training session on April 17, 2012. They've been used extensively in the training of my four dogs. The only components replaced are the batteries and rubber bands.

"the four original Kwick Wingers"
Hey Jim,

Is that camoflauge duck tape around those wingers? I like the looks rather than my white wingers.

ALSO, I made my wingers from KwikLabs design and I agree, they are very sturdy and not had problems. However, here is a winger PVC made from conduit

http://media.photobucket.com/image/conduit winger/MikeBons/Winger046.jpg
 

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i just wanted to say thanks for the ibfo on your home made wingers. building three and cannot wait to try them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Fishn,

I would plan for a higher cost than the $80 mentioned above. The pouch/pulley/bands kit from Dogs Afield is $50. If you want Zinger Winger brand, their kit is $90. A Tru-Fire patriot bow release is $20. PVC pipe and fittings will be $30 give or take. The small items like a car door lock actuator, hooks to hold the bands, bolts to attach the actuator and hooks, PVC cleaner and cement, zip ties, etc. will add up to $30 give or take. This is just for the winger assembly.

Your Tritronics release will operate the door lock actuator. A trip to Radio Shack for a plug and a bit of wire and your set. You will have to build some type of bracket to velcro your reciever to one of the legs.

Kendall
 

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Kendall is probably right. I had a few items like glue, wire, butt connectors and zip ties that I didn't have to buy. My bow releases were $12. I found plastic pulleys from Farmtek for $.99 each that were suggested by someone on this site.

As others have stated, I really appreciate KwikLabs spending the time to post the info on these wingers. It is a genius idea.
 

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Thanks everyone, especially Kwiklabs and Kendall for sharing this info. I didn't think launchers were going to happen this year, now, maybe so, Good Lord willing! Thanks again
 

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Kendal,
Can you buy releases from Gunners up or someone like that and incorporate it into this design. I am going to try to build 4 of these. If I could get releases pouches and bands for these I could do as many have mentioned and get some better releases at a later time.

I as other appreciate you sharing this, it will save me a ton of money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
John,

I checked the Gunners Up and Zinger Winger web sites and it looks like they do not sell their release system separately. They do sell replacement pouches, bands, pulleys, etc. If you are talking about upgrading to commercial electronics, both Tri-Tronics and Dogtra electronics will operate the car door lock actuator.

I appreciate the positive comments,
Kendall
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I received pm's requesting a parts list, a cut list, and instructions. Since I started with Kwicklabs idea and a trip to Menards, I don't have any of these. What I did do is write down a general overview, which is posted below. I hope that between the pictures I posted a couple days ago and the thoughts posted below, anyone that's interested can start off on the right foot.

Thanks,
Kendall


Winger Items

6 ¾ 90-degree fittings
6 ¾ by ¾ by ¾ T fittings
5 1 by 1 by ¾ T fittings
3 ¾ cap fittings
3 ¾ straight fittings
3 10-foot sections of PVC pipe

Release Items

Bow release
Car door lock actuator
Heavy pound fishing line
Small eye screw

Electronics Items

Two channel receiver
Six channel remote
Small 12-volt battery
Siren or Buzzer
Single pole single throw automotive switch
Project box
Velcro with adhesive backing
Black and red wire
Crimp connectors

General Winger Dimensions

Back legs 42”
Front legs 48”
Support leg 30”
Top square 18”

General bushing design

Cut the ¾ straight fittings in half making sure to remove the stop from inside the fitting. This creates six bushings.

Using a hammer and wooden block, tap the bushing onto the appropriate section of PVC pipe far enough to allow the 1 by 1 by ¾ T fitting to be clear of the ¾ fitting that is to be cemented to the end of the PVC pipe.

After the cement cures, slide the 1 by 1 by ¾ T fitting over the ¾ fitting that was just cemented and tap the bushing inside the 1 by 1 by ¾ T fitting until it hits the stop. Using a Q-tip place cement in the gap between the bushing and PVC pipe avoiding the fitting.
 
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