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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I conditioned my dog on the e-collar a few years ago and it's been smooth sailing until recently. Our neighbors got a dog who is usually off leash. He and my dog like to play together, which is fine, when I say so. For months, my dog would look to me for permission, I'd give it and they'd go play. At some point in the last few weeks, he decided he didn't need permission anymore, he has started ignoring "come", "no" and "leave it". I have increased the intensity of stims to the point where the collar doesn't go any higher, to no avail, he doesn't even flinch. He is now ignoring me even when the distraction isn't that strong, he's just wandering around in the field behind the house, sniffing and peeing, for example. Years of training seems to have evaporated. I know that I was slow to recognize what was happening. I guess I was complacent.

I know that we need start over, but if he has learned to completely ignore even the highest level stim that I can deliver and the sternest voice I can use, is there any point in continuing to use the e-collar? Should I try a new training method? Or just go back to the check cord and e-collar?

The collar is working and it is fitted tightly and the highest stim is downright painful. He has a Tritronics Sport G3. His normal working level was a 3.5. He was never the most sensitive dog, but pretending he can't feel a level 5 stim is ridiculous because I know darn well that when I had to hit in an emergency situation a few years back that he vocalized and quite frankly, it scared him. Luckily, he's an insensitive dog and the incident was forgotten about 30 seconds later.

Not sure what to do ...
 

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You mention that the collar is working, but is it working up to the level that is desired? Example, if you have it on level 5 are you sure its giving level 5 stimulation?
 

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I am so sorry, but I am literally rolling on the floor laughing. I have often joked about my dog getting on the 'net at night and posting wild stuff. Combine that with his poor manners and my recent troubles with my ecollar, and maybe you can imagine my reaction on reading the thread title and op's name! Oh, by the way, my dog's name is Indy ;-)

Sorry for the detour, hope you get him straightened out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You mention that the collar is working, but is it working up to the level that is desired? Example, if you have it on level 5 are you sure its giving level 5 stimulation?
You got me thinking, when I tested it before, I just pressed it to my leg and hit a button, it shocked me, so I assumed it was working. I did not test each level or the buzzer. On retesting I found that it is NOT working reliably. Sometimes I'll press the momentary button and nothing happens, there does not seem to be any rhyme or reason. The buzzer doesn't work if you just tap it, you have to hold it down and even then the signal is intermittent.

It does work often enough that I find it hard to believe that he's not feeling at least some of the stims he's getting. Still, first things first, get the collar working, then retrain.

I feel kind of stupid for not doing more thorough testing ...
 

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Check out the range too. Sometimes they're fine at 20 yards but not at 100 yards.
 

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Put the collar to your ear, push the continous button, you should hear a slight beeping sound that intesifies as you turn the collar up. If you don't hear that or its intermittent then you have a problem with the collar.
 

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You mentioned "Sometimes I'll press the momentary button and nothing happens, there does not seem to be any rhyme or reason. The buzzer doesn't work if you just tap it, you have to hold it down and even then the signal is intermittent."
Sounds like you need a new collar and then if it was me I would go back to CC with continous stim. only. How does a dog learn to turn off a "momentary " nick and isn't a "buzzer" just another verbal warning? Just my humble opinion. Duckdon
 

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I have also two questions to collar training.First when I send my dog ( golden) on a blind and I give him back - nick - back he stops by the nick and he is confused and he sits. what can I do to repair this. I use Mike Lardy ( collar training DVD)
second:when he is free and I throw a ball the speed is perfect ( 4 gear) but going on a blind or Mark the speed is the 2e or 3 gear) How I get him in the 4e gear
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jeff, thank you for that testing tip. I knew there had to be a better way. I found that it is more reliable than the momentary button, but still somewhat intermittent. I'd say the momentary button is only working 10-30% of the time and the continuous button works 9 in 10 times but is intermittent.

Don, I use both buttons, I was testing the momentary button on myself, but it looks like the continuous button might also be problematic. The buzzer is very helpful during that six AM bathroom break when I want to recall my dog without waking the whole neighborhood. I trained it as an alternative "come" command.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I changed the battery in the transmitter and fully charged the collar, with no improvement. I don't really know what else to do, if anything. I emailed Tritronics customer service, obviously, they're not open for business yet, but, through the grapevine I'm hearing that they really went south after being purchased by Garmin. Has anyone here recently returned a collar for repair? What was your experience like? Am I better off using another repair service or buying a new collar?
 

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I have also two questions to collar training.First when I send my dog ( golden) on a blind and I give him back - nick - back he stops by the nick and he is confused and he sits. what can I do to repair this. I use Mike Lardy ( collar training DVD)
second:when he is free and I throw a ball the speed is perfect ( 4 gear) but going on a blind or Mark the speed is the 2e or 3 gear) How I get him in the 4e gear
Thanks
hello Mathieu,
welcome to RTF
your 2 questions
1st the collar conditioning dvd will not show you how to do blind retrieve work. Your dog is sitting on the nick as he was tought. It takes much more than I am willing to type with so little coffee left in my cup. Your next BEST step, in my opinion. would be to buy Mike's printed material for detail "how to run blind retrieve" reading.
2nd you want 4th gear, throw live birds.
Have fun with your pup, join your local retriever club.
 

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Probably a battery / charging issue on the collar, could also be an antenna issue, with the remote. You'll either need to send it in to be checked/reconditioned or purchase a new one. The opening statement of a few years, screams "battery issues" to me, Mine have only lasted a few years before they stop working correctly and need to be checked.
 

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I just had a similar issue with my TT collar (working intermittently). Sent transmitter and receiver to them they tested them, said both failed the test and are sending me replacements as we speak. Very positive experience.
 

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Tritronic sport G3 initially had a problem with the intensity dial failing(intermitantly) after a lot of use. Tritronics replaced mine for free after the warrenty had expired I think because of the problem. After recieving a new unit it too started working intermitantly and out of sheer frustration it now has a new home on the bottom of a pond.:D Remarkably after just a few days of working with a reliable collar (dogtra keeping fy fingers crossed) I suddenly had a very obedient and well handling dog again. having an inconsistant collar is worse than having no collar.
Throwing that collar away was the best thing I ever did.

You can also try the collar while holding or wiggling the intensity dial and often you can find out it is the dial that is the problem

By the way the Sport transmitter skipped twice and took about 30 seconds before sinking below the surface.
 

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I have never been a fan of the Sport series ecollars. For repetitive use I would suggest you get one of the Pro Series ecollars or Flyway Special.

Second, your dog not running blinds in 4th gear is a good thing. Running blinds is a control issue and the fast dogs can get in trouble before you can anticipate them. I prefer a dog to run more under control on blinds, like 2/3 of mark speed. Therefore, old guys like me with slower reaction times can get them stopped before they make a fool of me.

Like Ken said for improved speed on marks use birds.
 

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Amen. Now if I could also get mine convinced that he really does have to change direction on my casts I will be doing good. Is there any way to tell if the dog can really see you? I don't think this is really the issue, because he does move on my casts, but he tends just to dig back instead of taking angle backs especially. What about using a white hat to help him distinguish the two casts?

I have never been a fan of the Sport series ecollars. For repetitive use I would suggest you get one of the Pro Series ecollars of Flyway Special.

Second, your dog not running blinds in 4th gear is a good thing. Running blinds is a control issue and the fast dogs can get in trouble before you can anticipate them. I prefer a dog to run more under control on blinds, like 2/3 of mark speed. Therefore, old guys like me with slower reaction times can get them stopped before they make a fool of me.

Like Ken said for improved speed on marks use birds.
 

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First look for the location of the sun, then check your background. If still unsure go stand at the blind location. Them squat down. If you can see the line so can the dog. Digging back on casts is a pretty common issue. Dennis Voigt in his Training Retrievers Alone has a drill for that. It is called split casting. If you don't have the dvd I'll try to describe:

Put out two blind poles about 20-30 yds apart square to the line. Put a pile of bumpers at each. Back up about 60 yds or so that you are in the center of the two blind poles. Send for right pile, then send for right pile but this time stop about half way. Then give angle back cast to left pile. Keep repeating this. Then do opposite, send to left pile, stop on the way and give right angle back cast to right pile. Remember like in FTP and T don't stop every time and create a poping issue. Adjust your distances so that your stopping point and the angle back cast is about a 45 degree angle cast. This is from memory as I loaned my son my dvd for him to use on Hank while I am recovering from my back surgery.

The other way to work on this is doing walking baseball. This is one of the cheapest of Evan Grahams dvds and it is worth the money. I bought mine years ago and I think it was only about $15. It is difficult to describe in words but it will definitely help your dog.

Hope this helps.
 

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I conditioned my dog on the e-collar a few years ago and it's been smooth sailing until recently. Our neighbors got a dog who is usually off leash. He and my dog like to play together, which is fine, when I say so. For months, my dog would look to me for permission, I'd give it and they'd go play. At some point in the last few weeks, he decided he didn't need permission anymore, he has started ignoring "come", "no" and "leave it". I have increased the intensity of stims to the point where the collar doesn't go any higher, to no avail, he doesn't even flinch. He is now ignoring me even when the distraction isn't that strong, he's just wandering around in the field behind the house, sniffing and peeing, for example. Years of training seems to have evaporated. I know that I was slow to recognize what was happening. I guess I was complacent.

I know that we need start over, but if he has learned to completely ignore even the highest level stim that I can deliver and the sternest voice I can use, is there any point in continuing to use the e-collar? Should I try a new training method? Or just go back to the check cord and e-collar?

The collar is working and it is fitted tightly and the highest stim is downright painful. He has a Tritronics Sport G3. His normal working level was a 3.5. He was never the most sensitive dog, but pretending he can't feel a level 5 stim is ridiculous because I know darn well that when I had to hit in an emergency situation a few years back that he vocalized and quite frankly, it scared him. Luckily, he's an insensitive dog and the incident was forgotten about 30 seconds later.

Not sure what to do ...
Back to your question....I am assuming that you did formal OB...Never....Never give a command unless you can enforce it. You have other tools at your disposal to use until your collar is fixed. Nip this in the bud now. You are the alpha and the dog needs to understand that now and in the future. Again....Give command once and if that doesn't work, or is Ignored, them don't say anything more. Walk up to dog where you have control, and give command again and correct with the other tools you have. May it be a choke collar or choke collar and check cord or just grabbing the collar on him.

My penny worth.
 

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Also if it is the transmitter and it is out of warrenty You might consider buying a Pro 500 EXP or Pro 100 EXP transmitter only (and a charging craddle) and you can use your Reciever(collar unit) with it. It saves you a bit of money over buying a whole complete setup. Also ask them if you can turn in your transmitter for an upgrade discount (not sure if they still offer them but you can ask)
 
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