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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am getting max ready for his first hunt test (started). I have noticed his water marking is less than par. Are there any drills i can do with him to improve this skill?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have been doing walking singles with a mini dokken mallard. When i get to about 40 yards he loses track of the dokken. I can tell he marks it durning the flight, but at some point while he is swimming he loses trqck of it and goes deep. Im wondering if the problem is 1) visability 2) the dokken not having a strong scent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Makes sense. Thanks fin! Im also going to switch to a white bumper and see if that helps
 

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Makes sense. Thanks fin! Im also going to switch to a white bumper and see if that helps
If you are training a young dog, give him every advantage you can to be successful. You're training- not testing and seeing that bumper gives him the confidence and drive to make that swim and/or fight factors to make the retrieve. I lack a bit in some aspects of training, so don't often give advice, but I do believe that instilling confidence in marking is such a huge asset.

Trained with someone once where I saw progress in their dog from the last time we had trained and didn't feel the dog needed help and needed the experience of putting on a credible hunt. Owner wasn't happy with me for making the call of allowing the dog to hunt, but I really feel it's a balancing act. You need to read the dog and help (a second bumper or "Hey! Hey" and arm motion) when they are clearly lost, but also be willing to stand back if they don't pin the mark and allow them an intelligent hunt on a mark they have clearly marked.

Again-if you think your dog needs to build confidence in the water be sure he's rewarded for his effort by a bumper that is clearly visible when he gets to it.

Insomnia Regards-

M
 

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What kind/length of marks does your dog "normally" get logy? You mentioned that when he doesn't pin the mark, he goes deep. Does he always overrun and almost never hunt short? Does he get a regular dose of long marks mixed in with short marks? If you have been training him on mostly really long marks and are now starting to "dial him down" for Started length marks, it might make sense that he thinks everything is longer than what it is. The guys I train with have taught me to be careful to do lots of sessions where one mark is super long and the next is very short, then long, then short, etc. I think this really teaches the dog to use his eyes and not just run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How old is he?
He is almost two, I have had trouble finding water to work him in.
What kind/length of marks does your dog "normally" get logy? You mentioned that when he doesn't pin the mark, he goes deep. Does he always overrun and almost never hunt short? Does he get a regular dose of long marks mixed in with short marks? If you have been training him on mostly really long marks and are now starting to "dial him down" for Started length marks, it might make sense that he thinks everything is longer than what it is. The guys I train with have taught me to be careful to do lots of sessions where one mark is super long and the next is very short, then long, then short, etc. I think this really teaches the dog to use his eyes and not just run.
On land I am keep the marks at 75 yards at the max, but I try to change up the distance each day. He does have a tendency to over run on land.
 

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Are you training with a group? At this point your dog needs to start seeing mulitple gun set-ups to the advantage of stationed throwers helping from the field.

If you aren't training in a group you really should make every effort to do so.

Bert
 

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Are you training with a group? At this point your dog needs to start seeing mulitple gun set-ups to take advantage of stationed throwers helping from the field.

If you aren't training in a group you really should make every effort to do so.

Bert
 

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Do you train with birds? If he had natural scent he probably wouldn't over run the mark. Miriam's suggestion of a second bird is good along with training with a group with birds.
 

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If he's having trouble with the Dokkens, real ducks won't necessarily make it any easier. If the birds have already gotten wet, they'll be far less visible than a Dokken. My current Golden's first hunt test had him going after a bird that actually sank just below the surface. Neither the judges nor I could see the darn thing from the line at all. If it were me, I'd probably hold off until his marking improves a bit. It will improve as he builds confidence through repetition.
 

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Why are you training with a "mini dokken mallard"? Try training with a big white bumper. Personally I don't train with dokkens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Why are you training with a "mini dokken mallard"? Try training with a big white bumper. Personally I don't train with dokkens.
When max was a pup he got a hold of my bumpers and chewed those little valves off. Just havent had a reason to replace them until now :)

Honestly i have let to find a group close to me to train with. Moat of my training is done alone. I am getting ready to buy a couple wingers , until them ill have to keep doing my walking singles.

I do use birds quite often. Just for the time being with the water work i am using bumpers.
 

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When max was a pup he got a hold of my bumpers and chewed those little valves off. Just havent had a reason to replace them until now :)

Honestly i have let to find a group close to me to train with. Moat of my training is done alone. I am getting ready to buy a couple wingers , until them ill have to keep doing my walking singles.
I would go out and buy the big white bumpers. Easiest thing to do right now.
 

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Mine still work with the valves chewed off, no sinking, a little waterlogged.
Did you try one of your big white bumpers with the valve chewed off and see if it floats? You just have to squeeze the water out before the next throw or when you put them away. Give one a toss, I do not think that you are going to have to buy all new big white bumpers.
Colleen
 

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I would go out and buy the big white bumpers. Easiest thing to do right now.
X2 Build his confidence, make sure he knows where he's going. If you can't see the mark, he probably can't either. Only after his confidence is strong do you want to begin making marks more difficult (hard to see, hidden in cover, etc.).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Mine still work with the valves chewed off, no sinking, a little waterlogged.
Did you try one of your big white bumpers with the valve chewed off and see if it floats? You just have to squeeze the water out before the next throw or when you put them away. Give one a toss, I do not think that you are going to have to buy all new big white bumpers.
Colleen
I just assumed they would sink. Ill give that a try!

So the general agreement is to build his confidence by doing shorter marks with big white bumpers. If i feel like he is starting to get lost do a second throw. Correct?
 

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Trained with someone once where I saw progress in their dog from the last time we had trained and didn't feel the dog needed help and needed the experience of putting on a credible hunt. Owner wasn't happy with me for making the call of allowing the dog to hunt, but I really feel it's a balancing act. You need to read the dog and help (a second bumper or "Hey! Hey" and arm motion) when they are clearly lost, but also be willing to stand back if they don't pin the mark and allow them an intelligent hunt on a mark they have clearly marked.
I have a HUGE issue with this. As a handler/owner of the dog, it is MY responsibility to know if or when a dog needs help. If I call for you to help them, you better do it. If you don't, that would be the last time you train with me.

You're not training my dog. I am. And its not your call to determine if I know what I am talking about.

WRL
 
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