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Ben this is good question. Unfortunately it is not necessarily an easy answer. There are some factors to consider, here are a couple that immediately come to mind.

The test setup – Some tests lend themselves to lining up the dog focused more on the memory bird. Long retired guns require the dog to really focus on the mark, as compared to a really short, go bird flyer. Lining the dog up on the go bird in this instance may result in the dog not watching the long bird or flash marking. It may also result in unsteadiness. Reverse the situation and make the long retired gun the flyer and this could change how you sit the dog. If the test is a double for example with a 180 swing then you again may line the dog up differently.

Training goal – If the test setup is designed to train on something like primary, secondary selection you may line the dog up to help enhance that aspect of training. If the test is teaching multiple marks, then again you would line the dog up differently.

The dog- I listed the dog last as I believe this is the most important aspect. Each dog will have strengths and weaknesses that need work on. Your goal for the training session for that dog should be to enhance the weakness and reinforce the strengths, as well as teach new skills. Much thought should be given to how you run the dog, and what setups will best accomplish your goal.

So as you can see its really a quite simple answer. Walk up, sit the dog and call for the birds…

:shock: :lol:

/Paul
 

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BenQuick said:
On multiple marks do you line the dog up on the memory bird, go bird or split the difference?
I would generally line the dog up with the most difficult bird of a setup (retired, etc.), but I might shade the dog towards one they would have difficulty seeing or might miss because of the order of the throws.

I believe Dave Rorem says to line them up towards your "money" bird in his DVD. Who am I to disagree with him?
 
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In general, split the difference. In theory dog's butt and feet should stay PARKED til all birds go down. Only head should move... So that's my standard in training.

But at a test, or trial when I run them (not often), I will have the dog lined up first: in a manner that he can see all the birds as they fall period and second: in a manner that the focus is on the money bird. So my dogs will favor the money bird as charles mentioned.

In some cases, like the 180 degree swing, I'm usually going to put them on the side that let's me push them.

There's no hard and fast rule and part of it is knowing your dog...

But in training, split the difference (partly because you're calling for your own birds and can correct headswinging if it happens). On the weekends, favor the key bird(s) and put your dog in a position to be able to focus on all falls...

-K
 

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BenQuick said:
Excellent replies. Thanks.
Whatever you do don't line them up on the go-bird and lock them in and call for the birds, makes for a heck of a time picking up the memory bird....not that I've ever done that :roll: :oops:

Donated an Entry Fee Regards,

FOM
 

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Line the dog up on the memory bird. I actually walk to the line heading for the first bird down, if I can.


Our dogs are taught to pivot with us - their butts don't move, but the front half may swing with us as we pivot.

Might not make sense. . . but it works.
 
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msdaisey said:
Line the dog up on the memory bird. I actually walk to the line heading for the first bird down, if I can.


Our dogs are taught to pivot with us - their butts don't move, but the front half may swing with us as we pivot.

Might not make sense. . . but it works.
It makes total sense.

In training, I don't let my dogs feet move at all, unless we're doing a very severe turn to another bird. Other than that, their feet should stay planted and only their head move. This is part of Ted's post about line manners a while back...

when I pivot in training, their HEAD should turn... but not their feet. But they should always respond to MY movement to the next bird. just not with their whole body. :)

I don't allow pivot or pitter patter of front feet because I know I'll have to give a little on the weekend. I feel that if I allow pitter patter or pivot in training, I'll get butt movement or more on the weekend.

BUT, obviously you have had success at trials.... So just two different standards in training that get each of us what we want. I just agree that it's important that your dog moves with you.

-K
 

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Kristie Wilder said:
obviously you have had success at trials....
-K
Dear heavens, I can barely remember back that far!!! :lol: If I could just quit this @#$%%%^ job, I would have a lot more. :wink:

Just following my partner's methodology, and HE'S had the success.

Ah, someday . . .

and no dancing on line allowed!!! Just a bullride in the holding blind with the one dog. :lol:
 

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All I can humbly add to this is remember to use your body to help. If the flyer station happens to be close and on the left, put the dog on the right. And line yourself up before the dog gets back, for the next mark. And decide before the dog comes back what side you will have the dog come to heel on, to maximize its success on the next bird. If your toes are pointed right at the next bird you want the dog to get. Then when dog comes in and sits it is already lined up for the next bird. And don't be snatching that bird away. Let the dog settle down a second and look out, "Yea, I know where I'm going next" Then take the bird and send.
Ken Bora
 
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