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Introduce the structure and expectations of a formal training session early. "Manners' training (don't jump on people, etc.) is 24/7, but formal training is a little different.
Puppy has to learn to quietly wait his turn AND that his turn will come AND that his turn will be fun. The first training sessions are only with puppy and the other household dog(s). Puppy is in a wire crate or X-pen watching the other dog. Puppy's turn never comes when puppy is barking or whining, only when puppy is being calm. At first, you might have to be ready to quickly end the session with the older dog to get the puppy out after he's been good for a few seconds. After he is getting the concept of waiting his turn with the other household dogs, you can move up to including him in training sessions with a training group.

First lessons are short and fun, fun, fun. Only real requirement is that puppy is gently directed to pay attention to training during his session. Initially, I would do foundation lessons for both competitive obedience and hunt training: fun recalls, going to a platform, waiting on the platform, restrained retrieves, restrained recalls, and gradually becoming more formal and more specific to the activity being trained.
 

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I did very similar to this with Oakley. Drive has never been her issue. Judges always think she was going to break on blinds when I say dead bird.

Did you do anything at a young age to work on tight sits? I did a little fun bumper drill teaching my son's dog as a puppy. I think it helped a lot.
Well, I'm not Chad Baker with a couple NAFC's, or even a Bubba Joiner, lol, but I got a new pup last spring. Maybe this is what you did with your son's dog? But it really worked well for me.

I am not a Hillman-ite, but someone recommended to me to try a Hillman drill for whistle sits during the relatively early puppy stage (well it was late puppy stage, but I believe prior to FF). I guess it was a segment during his traffic-cop stuff (which I am sure you are familiar with). Essentially, you are standing in front of the dog, throw a bumper, release the dog and you start by stopping them with the whistle before they pass you. But then as you continue, you then whistle stop them after they pass you. The first time I tried to stop him when he passed me, my dog turned on a dime and sat and looked at me. It was kind of amazing actually and then I casted back to the bumper. Lots of freebies mixed in of course. The dog had a ton of fun doing it and I truly think it helped with understanding whistle sits before getting to pile work. Anyway, just something to think about trying.
 

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Part of the daily routine!
Marks and blinds then blinds and Marks !!
Singles every third setup for life!!!!
I know that the force to pile work is so much better when they have already been to the pile a 1000 times without pressure.
Not all dogs are ready for this type of training so read your dog!!!
You are building a pattern blind field, you will go back to it often when teaching new concepts or reinforcing old ones.
Thanks Chad
I have a really nice male pup coming in a week out of clooney and a AFC bitch i wanna work on this set up alot more with this pup
 

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I'm sure others swear by them, but I have been training for roughly 40 years and never, ever used treats to train a dog. Repetition and lots of praise got me the results I wanted/needed. Just wasn't something that was done back in the day when I was learning the game and I never picked up the habit. Carry on...
 

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They have to learn to carefully taste from the whisky glass so they don't sneeze too much
 

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I start pile work very early if the pup has a lot of drive as early as 9 weeks, teach the pile at 10yds,15 20, 40, 60,80,100, 150,200. I like 2 different piles almost opposite directions they learn BACK as a release under very little pressure. Then the next week I ad logs, pipes , haybales when they are big enough, mow strips at angles 2 different directions. Read your dog, stop before they lose interest, you can repeat this twice a day, its a baby pattern blind that you can't handle on. Use it that way, after the blind throw a mark away from the line, then repeat the blind. Jim and Mike both said that I needed 3 dogs to keep from wearing the pads off a good one. This drill also wears them down for easier lead training. Reflecting back I really think that the pups learn to go longer at a earlier age with more confidence by teaching these basic piles which I feel is a great think to be able to compete in Trials today.


How do you initially start getting the pup to go to the pile? Is it as simple as setting out the pile and tossing a bumper into it a few times before the send and then try without the toss?

Do you see bumper shopping problems early on? I guess a check cord could be used to lightly coerce them back to you from the initial 10 yard phase and hope that standard sets in.
 

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How do you initially start getting the pup to go to the pile? Is it as simple as setting out the pile and tossing a bumper into it a few times before the send and then try without the toss?

Do you see bumper shopping problems early on? I guess a check cord could be used to lightly coerce them back to you from the initial 10 yard phase and hope that standard sets in.
For me - yes to your first line of questions ... And, in conjunction with that, I have used 'jealousy' to get pups going to a pile. Send an older dog a couple of times to a very visible pile while pup is tied or held by someone else, watching. Alternate sends once pup decides they want what the 'big dog' has.

If the pup doesn't have the desire to go pick up a bumper that hasn't been thrown, I don't try to force the issue. Some pups have enough drive to run to a pile over and over again. But some don't. (Which, btw, doesn't mean that the pup is a dud) That is probably why Chad indicated you have to read the dog.
 
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