[Shawn Riggs]

Does anyone know of a way to teach a dog to stop running through Barbed wire fences? The injuries inflicted by the fence its self has not been enough to discourage her from going through them. She just keeps doing it. Usually she is unharmed, but four different times she has been scraped or nicked, twice pretty badly. The last one was on her muzzle and very close to one of her eyes. We have never thrown a mark that required her to go through a fence to pick it up, so I don’t know why she thinks she needs to.
I had the idea to stop her just before she were to go through it, give a correction, and then have the gunner throw another bird. However, if her intention was not to go through the fence I just gave her an unfair correction; and she is a sensitive, unforgiving, moody, yellow bitc……

Any ideas?

 

[Guest]

Does anyone know of a way to teach a dog to stop running through Barbed wire fences? The injuries inflicted by the fence its self has not been enough to discourage her from going through them. She just keeps doing it. Usually she is unharmed, but four different times she has been scraped or nicked, twice pretty badly. The last one was on her muzzle and very close to one of her eyes. We have never thrown a mark that required her to go through a fence to pick it up, so I don’t know why she thinks she needs to.
I had the idea to stop her just before she were to go through it, give a correction, and then have the gunner throw another bird. However, if her intention was not to go through the fence I just gave her an unfair correction; and she is a sensitive, unforgiving, moody, yellow bitc……

Any ideas?

I wouldn't do anything except to stop throwing marks near barbed wire fences... Or anywhere that the fence is in the hunt area (larger area for a young dog).

IF we end up "having" to throw a mark near something questionable (which we don't do often), the gunners are in charge of giving a hey-hey if the dog approaches the area we don't want them in.

In the end, it's not worth the risk...

 

[subroc]

Does anyone know of a way to teach a dog to stop running through Barbed wire fences? The injuries inflicted by the fence its self has not been enough to discourage her from going through them. She just keeps doing it. Usually she is unharmed, but four different times she has been scraped or nicked, twice pretty badly. The last one was on her muzzle and very close to one of her eyes. We have never thrown a mark that required her to go through a fence to pick it up, so I don’t know why she thinks she needs to.
I had the idea to stop her just before she were to go through it, give a correction, and then have the gunner throw another bird. However, if her intention was not to go through the fence I just gave her an unfair correction; and she is a sensitive, unforgiving, moody, yellow bitc……

Any ideas?

You have the responsibility to protect your dog. If you are throwing marks consistently in the area where there is a barbed wire fence and your dog has crossed it many times and 4 times that have caused injury. I doubt it is the dogs fault.

Train elsewhere or stop the dog before it crossed the fence.

 

[Kenneth Niles Bora]

take down the fence or.......

stop throwing marks near barbed wire fences...

:roll:

 

[lablover]

It's the handlers responsibility to make sure the grounds are safe for the dogs.

I believe that a dog on a high speed run to a mark cannot see a fence until the last minute....... which may be too late for the dog.
We KNOW what fences are. The dogs are not so educated.

Please be careful, and stay away from fences.

 

[Misty Marsh]

Is there really a need to train close to a barbed wire fence, the two just don't mix. I helped stitch together a CLM who ran into a barbed wire fence after loosing track of a happy bumper in the air, not good at all, and lucky that a lady I know is a vet and had supplues to do it in the field because we were a hell of a long way from a vet!

 

[Shawn Riggs]

IF we end up "having" to throw a mark near something questionable (which we don't do often), the gunners are in charge of giving a hey-hey if the dog approaches the area we don't want them in.

This is what is usually done, but the problems happen on retired marks. But I do need to remember to give better instructions on this to people who I don’t always train with and not assume that they know to do that.

take down the fence or.......

-don’t think the land owners would like their cows all over the place.

I am not sure if everyone understands how large a hunt pattern is on a 250+ yard retired memory bird with even the best of marking dogs.
I know it’s not the dogs fault, but I need to figure out how to teach her not to go through them. My male who runs much hard than my female will turn and not go through a fence. There is no question that he sees them and understands what it is.
In Texas there aren’t too many pieces of property that don’t have barbed wire. I’d love to train somewhere with no cows, no fences, no snakes, and no mesquite but that’s not anywhere around here.

 

[Misty Marsh]

I don't know about you, but many people on this forum do know the size of a acceptable hunt pattern on a retired 250 yard mark and it's not very big. Sorry, I feel for you and a lack of quality training gorunds, but it's not worth tearing up a dog if what you have is too close to barbed wire fences.

 

[Guest]

IF we end up "having" to throw a mark near something questionable (which we don't do often), the gunners are in charge of giving a hey-hey if the dog approaches the area we don't want them in.

This is what is usually done, but the problems happen on retired marks. But I do need to remember to give better instructions on this to people who I don’t always train with and not assume that they know to do that.

take down the fence or.......

-don’t think the land owners would like their cows all over the place.

I am not sure if everyone understands how large a hunt pattern is on a 250+ yard retired memory bird with even the best of marking dogs.
I know it’s not the dogs fault, but I need to figure out how to teach her not to go through them. My male who runs much hard than my female will turn and not go through a fence. There is no question that he sees them and understands what it is.
In Texas there aren’t too many pieces of property that don’t have barbed wire. I’d love to train somewhere with no cows, no fences, no snakes, and no mesquite but that’s not anywhere around here.

I think all of us know what an acceptable hunt pattern is on a 250 yard mark... I'm in Georgia where there's lots of barbed wire and much smaller fields than what you probably have in Texas.

I wouldn't want to be throwing marks up near fence lines anyway as tends to create an "enclosed" area for a hunt.

I really don't think you can "teach" a field dog to not go through a barbed wire fence without screwing something up. There are times when you may need her to pass carefully through one. i just don't see the point in teaching it in fairness to the dog.

Put your marks somewhere else or find some different property to run on.

I just can't see having to run on top of fences that frequently. Something's wrong... You either need to find some new property or shorten your marks up if that's all the property you have to work with.

 

[flywaylabs]

My dogs learn a "fence"command as puppies. I leash them, bring them near the wire fence, Sharply say the command, firm correction, call them in and reward for the recall. As pups they hear "fence' they turn away toward me. As they get conditioned "fence" stops their forward movement, I give a sit and they wait for a command to go through the fence with my help.

As they become more expereinced they learn to watch for fences and know how to get through safely. If they find a tight wired one they wait till we come and help them through.

We use this hunting, not testing/trailing.

 

[DH]

Most of the places I hunt are covered in barbed wire. With my previous dogs I went through a long procedure to teach them about the fences. Put the dog on one side of the fence and stand on the other with a checkcord attached to the dog. Have a helper hold the bottom strand of wire up and call the dog through the fence. With each repitition let the helper lower the level of the bottom strand. If the the dog ever lets the wire touch its back have the helper grab the dog and pull it back to the starting point. The checkcord is to make sure the dog doesn't start trying to avoid the fence by going around. Pretty soon the dog will figure out to belly crawly under the fence. Do it a couple times in a couple places and they get the idea. My brittany got to where he could belly under a fence and barely slow down.

If you're going to hunt quail in Texas this is a must learn for the dogs. I not sure what impact this training might have on a field trial dog in terms of forming bad habits because I don't run trials.

When I was over in Scotland I got to see some labs that had been taught to jump over some amazingly high fences, they would even push off of the top strand on the way. I wouldn't want to do that in a lot of the places where I hunt, too much chance of the dog landing on something sharp or hard that's buried in the grass, not to mention the unneeded wear and tear on a dogs joints form doing that regularly.

DH