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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do you guys speed up a remote sit. Working on whistle sit to the pile and he is really slow to sit at the whistle.

He has been CC to sit as well as with a heeling sit
 

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When you blow the whistle the first time watch his body language for acknowledgement of the the sit whistle. As soon as he acknowledges the whistle (by slowing down, starting to turn, etc), then hit the sit whistle again and nick him. Don't nick him on the first sit whistle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its ok to nick him in the field like that, will these lead to some bad popping issues later? He does have a tendency to pop once in awhile
 

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I would put him on one then and start from there. Then use the rope and collar in transition. Once that's solid you then have the tool in place for the dog to understand the collar correction you'll be asking for as Wayne pointed to.
 

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I work on this while working on obedience as well. While doing a walking heal I will blow the whistle (crop behind my back) and tap them on the rear. Some dogs will need a firmer tap. I still do this on occasion but i did it before every workout that required a remote sit. I was having the same problem and this worked for me. As for correction in the field go with the nick on the second whistle as Wayne suggested. Good luck
 

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I do it similarly to what Wayne posted.

Begin with walking sits at heel; blow the whistle and immediately give a verbal SIT. Do that until I can do away with the verbal command - be certain the dog understands the whistle is the same command as the verbal.

Then I use the collar to quicken the response. Sounds like I use the collar differently: Instead of a nick, I use continuous stimulation at low intensity. Begin again with walking heel. Blow the whistle and simultaneously apply collar. As soon as the dog's butt is on the ground, turn the collar off.

Final step is blow the whistle, and give the dog about 1 second to respond. If you don't see an immediate response to the whistle alone, then apply collar with a firm verbal SIT, until the dog's butt is on the ground. If/when the dog does respond immediately to the whistle, then he gets no collar stim. The delay between the whistle command and the collar stimulation will teach the dog that if he responds immediately, he will avoid the collar. Otherwise, if he hesitates the collar turns on.
 

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Just like collar conditioning to here you can collar condition your dog to sit start off verbally and then integrate the whistle in as well. It is in Evan Graham's program (and probably just about any other program). Wayne's advice is an excellent correction for this as well I have used both!
 

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I'd get that rope.
 

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Sounds like the dog is in t work right now and frankly I wouldn't worry too much about. Right now your working on momentum so it can confuse the dog to try both. I'd wait for now, typically it balances itself out. As the dogs gets to advanced work, if a problem I'd do bird boy drills to speed it up


/Paul
 

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before I use the collar for remote sit i like to get them to sit with a verbal command with out and physical help ie. pushing their butt down, or a tug on the leash. once I can do that I then extend enforcement with a quick tug on the leash and a tap with the heeling stick, once they are sitting quickly I then give light stimulus with the collar and a tap on the butt and give the sit command and release when they are sitting - so they learn to turn off the pressure.

I was told to do it this way so the dogs realize what the collar correction is for as many dogs are collar conditioned to "here" many dogs think they have to come in when they recieve the stimulus. plus it does it step by step and fewer reasons for them to not understand.

good luck
 

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I think that could be some of the problem in his slow sit, yes he is in t work. And yes his momentum is poor
the Janitor has often told us all the RTF can be a lot like panning for gold.
By your post here, I'd say post 11 is your nugget. And scan the member list Find Miriam and read her sig line. Have fun with your pup.
 
 
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I Second Post 11
 

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Its ok to nick him in the field like that, will these lead to some bad popping issues later?

.....
It could, if you overdo it. Read the dog and maintain "balance".

To quote a famous dog guy: "
Work to achieve balance in training. Training that enhances one aspect of training diminishes another (almost always)."

Meaning: if you get overzealous in enforcing a quick sit, he may begin to anticipate. (That would be a pop.)
JS
 

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I third post 11. I just wish I would have seen it before I worried too much about this with my dog on the TT. It's showing up in the pattern blind teaching I am doing right now. Good thing he takes a good line, so I can let him run and work it out of his system. He doesn't pop, but he is having some slow-goes that I think are his way of making dadgum sure he sits down if he hears the whistle.

But he is gradually getting better, so I have that going for me. Which is nice.

Question: does anybody see any unintended consequences from using actual birds in the morning on the two outside legs of the pattern blind before teaching the middle leg? My thinking is that the birds would help his momentum on the blinds.
 

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Question: does anybody see any unintended consequences from using actual birds in the morning on the two outside legs of the pattern blind before teaching the middle leg? My thinking is that the birds would help his momentum on the blinds.

I have used birds on paterns and on back piles of T. "Unintended"
suction, scent, dragback, needing to be mindfull of the walk out to plant.
and mixing birds and bumpers is ruff, with a young dog, at times.


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Thanks Ken. For some reason it just seemed like it would end up causing more problems than it might solve.

I ended up not using birds this AM. Momentum was better anyway.
 
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