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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi.
First of all, thanks for a really good forum with alot of experienced trainers and handlers. If my english is abit off I apologize this - I'm Norwegian.. ;)

I have a question conserning training in water. My dog (17 months) is a "retrieving maniac". He absolutly loves it! The problem is when we do waterworks. Almost everytime he is coming out of the water he drops the bumper, shakes, before he picks the bumper up and delievers to hand. I've heard different solutions that might help to this, but just wanted to hear if anybody has any drills that has worked especially good for them? I dont do FF, but he is good at "HOLD". I've heard some people say that I should start running backwards as the dog is returning - making him nervous that I will disapear and therefore rushing out of the water to be with me (still holding on to the bumper). Another approach is to stand close to the wateredge, catching the bumper as the dog is coming out of the water and not giving him the chance to shake. This could also be done with having a steep edge from the water and up to me, forcing the dog to really work before he gets by my side.

Any thoughts?
 

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Welcome, or is it velkommin? Pretty sure we can do a mutually beneficial cultural exchange - we'll get you first-rate retriever advice in return for a size XXL Bama football shirt. You know, Bama Gruppen, sponsor of Norway's national futbol team http://www.bama.no/eway/no/csr/index.aspx

And you got it right on retreating from the water as the dog is about to exit with a dummy - just be more methodical in your movement. (Walk, don't run.) And then reach down while still on the move and take the dummy or bird from your dog while it's on the move, too. This will require a little gymnastic ability but in 'Bama terms, you'll cotton on to it.

MG
 

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Most people start water retrieves right from the water's edge. After I've introduced my pups to water and have good mechanics of returning with the bumper, I start my real water retrieves with the young pups 25+ yards from the waters edge. The pup naturally comes out of the water and runs to you never thinking of stopping until he gets to you. Now you can encourage the hold, try to get the bumper before he drops, immediately put back in his mouth, etc. Dog is less prone to shake because much of the water is shed during the run on land.
 

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Hi.
Almost everytime he is coming out of the water he drops the bumper, shakes, before he picks the bumper up and delievers to hand.

but he is good at "HOLD".
Any thoughts?
I would agree with both previous suggestions . If the delivery is 100% on land before you 'Train' for a perfect delivery from water.
Sending the dog from the bank and as the dog picks up the bumper turn around and start walking away,if the dog has a good recall then this can also be applied as it 'hits the bank' . If you have perfected a 'sit delivery' in front or the side then ,kneel down beside the dog and give praise 'Without taking the bumper' and reinforcing 'sit- Hold' .Use the release command 'give/dead' whatever and the dog will shed water from it's coat. If it doesn't ? (some don't ,then wait it out) when it does , give the dog the bumper straight back. The other poster is correct that the longer the run to you the dog is already loosing water from it's coat , a dog also can't shed water when it's sitting ;). It's how I would approach it ,but then you may have to change it slightly ?
 

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Your English looks to be better than mine. Welcome.
You spelled out all of the best fixes for your dog. This is a common training concern. Don't panic and keep working on it, using one or more of the techniques you already described. He will figure it out.
 

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I would agree with both previous suggestions . If the delivery is 100% on land before you 'Train' for a perfect delivery from water.
Robt. and new Norse friend, you can also "cheat" - not cheat the water, but cheat the retrieve delivery, just like the NFL used to -



by adding stickum to your bumpers so they "stick" in the dog's mouth and can't be shaken out.;) That's a joke, new Norse friend, only a joke, and it probably won't go over very well in Oslo...

MG
 

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Your English is better than most people on this site including me. I'm also Norwegian being the 2nd generation born in the states grew up with grandparents who spoke mostly Norwegian. As far as your question goes I would continually give the hold command when exiting water when the dog drops the bumper I would immediately comand hold and put the bumper back in its mouth and tap under their jaw commanding hold again. Hope this helps and welcome
 

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Everyone has given great suggestions; just want to welcome you and say good luck w/ your training.
 

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It is fairly simple to teach the "shake" command. It is allowed to happen after I get the bumper as in a "reward sequence". With consistent applications, it becomes an automatic expectation.....after delivery.
Lol ..Now if that same philosophy was used with every task we would not have so many questions ;)....
I never did like the 'verbal' command 'shake' however........as the dog was ''''''gonna do it anyway'''' but I'm sure some folks like to be in ear shot of others :cool:..
You could insert 'Sit' ? or any other ;-)
 

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Hi.
First of all, thanks for a really good forum with alot of experienced trainers and handlers. If my english is abit off I apologize this - I'm Norwegian.. ;)

I have a question conserning training in water. My dog (17 months) is a "retrieving maniac". He absolutly loves it! The problem is when we do waterworks. Almost everytime he is coming out of the water he drops the bumper, shakes, before he picks the bumper up and delievers to hand. I've heard different solutions that might help to this, but just wanted to hear if anybody has any drills that has worked especially good for them? I dont do FF, but he is good at "HOLD". I've heard some people say that I should start running backwards as the dog is returning - making him nervous that I will disapear and therefore rushing out of the water to be with me (still holding on to the bumper). Another approach is to stand close to the wateredge, catching the bumper as the dog is coming out of the water and not giving him the chance to shake. This could also be done with having a steep edge from the water and up to me, forcing the dog to really work before he gets by my side.

Any thoughts?
Wow...Welcome big time. :)
Yes some folks will walk backwards and give verbal "Hold".
If as you say that dogs "Hold" is rigid, then the light bulb will come on to the dog and will shake while bumper is still in his mouth while you are commanding "Hold".
Just be patient. :)
Enjoy the journey.
 

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Lol ..Now if that same philosophy was used with every task we would not have so many questions ;)....
I never did like the 'verbal' command 'shake' however........as the dog was ''''''gonna do it anyway'''' but I'm sure some folks like to be in ear shot of others :cool:..
You could insert 'Sit' ? or any other ;-)

I teach shake, because I'm not a fan of having water thrown all over me when it's 15 degrees in the duck blind :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks everyone! I'm sure he'll figure it out pretty soon ;) I dont make him sit next to me before delivery, he is just tought to deliever to hand in front. Think I'll just focus on the WALKING away-process as this seems to be the preferred method.
 

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The walking away as the dog got out of the water didn't work for me, as soon as all 4 feet were on dry ground she was going to shake. What worked for me was, while standing at the waters edge as she got close but before she got out of the water I'd start saying hold, just like I did on land when teaching hold. If she dropped it a firm NOOOO! And back in her mouth with the hold command with pressure on her chin. Worked for me.
 

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Since I quit throwing the warly marks right from the ponds edge, no more problem.
10-12 week old pup making 25 yard entries + 5 yard swims and returns all the way without stopping.
Stopping at the edge is learned by throwing marks from the waters edge. Don't teach it and won't need to fix it.
 

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Since I quit throwing the warly marks right from the ponds edge, no more problem.
10-12 week old pup making 25 yard entries + 5 yard swims and returns all the way without stopping.
Stopping at the edge is learned by throwing marks from the waters edge. Don't teach it and won't need to fix it.
This is something everyone should put in their note books. I don't always have that much room where I put my pups in, but at least 15 yards. If the pup drops it, I just walk over, point at it say " fetch it up" and let them run around with it for a few, Kneel down and call them by their name. Also it is fun, where I have to catch them as they try to fly by me.

Keith
 

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My solution is to meet pup at the waters edge , or slightly in the water, in a place where I can get a hold of the collar in one hand and enforce the hold command with the other by tapping them under the chin. Let pup calm down a bit, take the bumper using the give command. Release the pup and command shake. Repeat until pup gets the idea then you can back up about five feet on land this time you enforce the sit at heel holding the collar if need be and repeat above. If pup drops the bumper just put it back in their mouth. Holding the pup by the collar gives me a better control so they aren't allowed to shake until released. If they try to shake just pick pup up so front feet are just off the ground.
 

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My solution is to meet pup at the waters edge , or slightly in the water, in a place where I can get a hold of the collar in one hand and enforce the hold command with the other by tapping them under the chin. Let pup calm down a bit, take the bumper using the give command. Release the pup and command shake. Repeat until pup gets the idea then you can back up about five feet on land this time you enforce the sit at heel holding the collar if need be and repeat above. If pup drops the bumper just put it back in their mouth. Holding the pup by the collar gives me a better control so they aren't allowed to shake until released. If they try to shake just pick pup up so front feet are just off the ground.
I don't know, witch topic you are responding to. When the pup is 12 to 24 weeks or 17 months. Dose your pup already have OB.

Keith
 
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