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Darrin........I choose to side with caution with youngsters, they can be forgiving BUT they also remember things you will forget down the road.
Yes, that was one of the first things I learned when I was bringing Ozzy through the program. He came out with a great attitude running hard as a result. Too hard for the newbie handler, as you witnessed a few times. Now after seeing a load of dogs now trained by a bunch of people, I know you guys are absolutely right about it.

Hopefully I have this formula correct with me new girl. She seems like she has tons of potential and I don't want to squander it.

Looking forward to more of your insight on this one you're working with.
 
My answer is you and Sammy need to get chessies and then let your wife train them. She's a good handler.
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
AGE: 6 months to present(10 months)
Noise got to be worse so as the owner was taking the pup thru the program all marks for a period of time were surprise marks..meaning as the dog and owner came around the side of the truck towards the line as soon as the dog saw the thrower they threw the bumper(dog doesn't have time to anticipate the retrieve)
Noise went away when we did that...(took his mind out of the trained response, see bumper make noise)
If the dog had a genetic noise problem he would have barked anytime he was sent to retrieve or as soon as he saw the gunner but he didn't, so I went back to the original thought that the pup was running the show which is a real easy fix..to be continued...
 
AGE: 6 months to present(10 months)
Noise got to be worse so as the owner was taking the pup thru the program all marks for a period of time were surprise marks..meaning as the dog and owner came around the side of the truck towards the line as soon as the dog saw the thrower they threw the bumper(dog doesn't have time to anticipate the retrieve)
Noise went away when we did that...(took his mind out of the trained response, see bumper make noise)
If the dog had a genetic noise problem he would have barked anytime he was sent to retrieve or as soon as he saw the gunner but he didn't, so I went back to the original thought that the pup was running the show which is a real easy fix..to be continued...
Great point, Randy! many people don't even stop to analyze noise like this....
 
I agree with Darrin, absolutely nothing if there is noise-a small whine counts as noise. If I can hear it and it came from his mouth, everything stops and we go back to square one of whatever we were dealing with.

I had a lot of fun with this around my property when he was a teenager-he would give me this horrible, loud bark to get me to hurry up and I would instantly turn around and go inside shutting the door in his face. I still do it in regards to my back yard or gates to pastures etc, if he's behind a gate and I start walking towards it-if he barks, I turn and go the other direction. Usually by the third repetition, he is quiet even if the others are barking. Just cracks me up. It's way too late to stop my shelties from barking, and they don't do field work anyway-but that little lab better be quiet or he's not getting ANYTHING from me.
 
AGE: 6 months to present(10 months)
Noise got to be worse so as the owner was taking the pup thru the program all marks for a period of time were surprise marks..meaning as the dog and owner came around the side of the truck towards the line as soon as the dog saw the thrower they threw the bumper(dog doesn't have time to anticipate the retrieve)
Noise went away when we did that...(took his mind out of the trained response, see bumper make noise)
If the dog had genetic noise problem he would have barked anytime he was sent to retrieve or as soon as he saw the gunner but he didn't, so I went back to the original thought that the pup was running the show which is a real easy fix..to be continued...




Post# 1: " I bought into a litter .....knowing that some would have noise issues"



Randy,

Based on your above statements is this pup "genetically noisy" or "just noisy"????

You state that you thought you may have problems with noise, based on the lineage.

Then when you find that you have noise and do a diagnoses. You find it is NOT do to lineage.

Was it do to training or lack of? Or technics?


This is NOT a wise arz$ question.

I have a pup (7 mos.) that is the most vocal pup I have ever owned (I've owned dozens). However she is vocal everywhere EXCEPT when working.

Her pedigree "suggests" (Cosmo) that she maybe somewhat vocal.

Thank you, Randy
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
RND there were 8 in the litter and I get to see 5 almost everyday of my life...interesting how the 2 males with me full time act alike and the 2 females that I actually own act alike BUT the boys and girls are worlds apart. The one other male(on this thread) is totally different than all the rest so far. The pups are all crazy to retrieve but sensitive, combination I don't get to see alot. The hardest dogs I ever had to fix for noise were Runnin With The Devil and Chavez dogs..WOW WOW WOW..The overall approach was a combination of watching the littermates......more to come
 
I watched the puppy come in for training 4 to 5 days a week for months, hardest part was not really knowing if the basics were solid but was 99% sure they were...
AGE: PRE 6 MONTHS
I watched the owners get yanked to the line for marks...(pup is running the show)
I watched the dog get pulled off the line back to the truck..(pup is to intense to be taught?)
I heard the dog barking in the truck when the owner would get another one of their dogs out to work..(intensity or disobedient towards owners??)
I watched the dog airing away from the line on a rope while other dogs are working...(pup didn't care one bit about the other dogs working at that time)
My attitude towards the pup prior to 6 months was that he was crazy to retrieve but I was not willing to do anything about it yet. Life for him was retrieving...retrieving..retrieving...he was the man to say the least! to be continued
AGE: 6 months to present(10 months)
Noise got to be worse so as the owner was taking the pup thru the program all marks for a period of time were surprise marks..meaning as the dog and owner came around the side of the truck towards the line as soon as the dog saw the thrower they threw the bumper(dog doesn't have time to anticipate the retrieve)
Noise went away when we did that...(took his mind out of the trained response, see bumper make noise)
If the dog had a genetic noise problem he would have barked anytime he was sent to retrieve or as soon as he saw the gunner but he didn't, so I went back to the original thought that the pup was running the show which is a real easy fix..to be continued...
Goes back to my theory of more early obedience training for a high, vocal pup than marks. MARKS, MARKS, MARKS are just like giving a kid candy every time they go to school.

Imagine if they started training pup with obedience and very few retrieved marks at home. Marks are a very small part of the 'Balanced' or 'Total' retriever if you will. Many marks can be thrown with very few retrieves in order to teach patience and obedience.

On days that they came to 'school'......more obedience around truck, around other trucks and people. NO CANDY, or I mean MARKS. This sort of 'off site training' goes on several times before an actual MARK is ever thrown for the pup until it is calm and controllable around others.

Walk pup to the line several times just to watch others calmly, so it learns that each trip to line does not get CANDY. Only when pup can sit and watch mark thrown calmly and quietly does it actually get to retrieve.

For dogs who are already out of control going to line and on the line, this will also work wonders. Back to basics to regain control. Dog must learn that they are not in control. Only when they have complied with master's wishes does he get CANDY!
 
Goes back to my theory of more early obedience training for a high, vocal pup than marks. MARKS, MARKS, MARKS are just like giving a kid candy every time they go to school.

Imagine if they started training pup with obedience and very few retrieved marks at home. Marks are a very small part of the 'Balanced' or 'Total' retriever if you will. Many marks can be thrown with very few retrieves in order to teach patience and obedience.

On days that they came to 'school'......more obedience around truck, around other trucks and people. NO CANDY, or I mean MARKS. This sort of 'off site training' goes on several times before an actual MARK is ever thrown for the pup until it is calm and controllable around others.

Walk pup to the line several times just to watch others calmly, so it learns that each trip to line does not get CANDY. Only when pup can sit and watch mark thrown calmly and quietly does it actually get to retrieve.

For dogs who are already out of control going to line and on the line, this will also work wonders. Back to basics to regain control. Dog must learn that they are not in control. Only when they have complied with master's wishes does he get CANDY!
I personally think all you're doing here with a young one is setting yourself up to have a dog that is out of control at a trial.
 
I personally think all you're doing here with a young one is setting yourself up to have a dog that is out of control at a trial.
Quite the opposite actually. BEFORE I did this my dogs were out of control at trials and I've run quite a few dogs and trials......unfortunately I have years of experience with high, vocal dogs.

Doesn't take long on EE to do a little research.
https://www.entryexpress.net/LoggedIn/viewPersonHistory.aspx?t=h&q=Tammy+Bell

or the AKC Judges directory
http://classic.akc.org/judges_directory/

My dogs now walk to the line and sit nicely.

Bad line manners are no fun, and unfortunately I've had a lot of experience with it.
 
It's funny that Randy mentions Running with the Devil dogs. Mine is a grandchild and she is a whiner in the hunting blind, but quiets right up when birds are working. She is a whiner in the holding blind, but started to develop a yelp when marks were going down. We started immediately with noise control, and it's still not gone. I basically gave up on an tests, and conceded that maybe when she's older and better trained I could start again.
 
There were some funnies!!
 
Goes back to my theory of more early obedience training for a high, vocal pup than marks. MARKS, MARKS, MARKS are just like giving a kid candy every time they go to school.

Imagine if they started training pup with obedience and very few retrieved marks at home. Marks are a very small part of the 'Balanced' or 'Total' retriever if you will. Many marks can be thrown with very few retrieves in order to teach patience and obedience.

On days that they came to 'school'......more obedience around truck, around other trucks and people. NO CANDY, or I mean MARKS. This sort of 'off site training' goes on several times before an actual MARK is ever thrown for the pup until it is calm and controllable around others.

Walk pup to the line several times just to watch others calmly, so it learns that each trip to line does not get CANDY. Only when pup can sit and watch mark thrown calmly and quietly does it actually get to retrieve.

For dogs who are already out of control going to line and on the line, this will also work wonders. Back to basics to regain control. Dog must learn that they are not in control. Only when they have complied with master's wishes does he get CANDY!
In terms of the part of your post that I bolded, I think about it quite differently. For me, it's not at all about the dog learning that it's not in control. The dog always has a choice, especially when you're standing there on the line or on an honor with the dog off leash. I want my dog to learn that SELF control is the ONLY route to getting the retrieve. I think good training involves enhancing the odds that the dog will make the choice you want. For the very young pup, I don't think of it as obedience, but rather the pup learning that quiet self control is the gateway to what it desires in life. You do this by allowing the pup to make choices and learn that different behavioral choices have different consequences. Of course, you carefully control the consequences so that the pup is reinforced only for the choices you like, and not reinforced for the choices you don't like.

I started playing Susan Garrett's "Crate Games" with my pup the day she came home. Crate Games is a really well thought out protocol for teaching a pup that their behavioral choices have consequences, and that self-control leads to good things. The pup learns that sitting quietly in its crate after the door is opened is what makes its release word happen. You never ask them to sit. You go through a series of steps that conditions the pup to offer a quiet sit. Then, if the pup lunges forward or moves a paw as you're opening the door or after you open it, you simply close the crate door. The pup learns very quickly what it needs to do.

My pup also learned that sitting quietly made me put her food dish on the floor, while bouncing around made it go away; same deal for going outside, getting a toy, and so on. I never asked her to sit, just let her make the choice. So from day 1 the key lesson she was learning was that sitting quietly got her what she wanted. Any other behavior got her nothing. You have to be obsessive about controlling your pup's access to reinforcement, so they're only reinforced for the behavior you like, but it's really not hard. You also need to set and maintain criteria. It's actually fun for the pup, because they learn it's easy to get what they want....all they have to do is sit quietly. They learn quickly because they get immediate feedback on their behavioral choices. You've begun to establish the foundation for self control as a life-long habit.

Everything else my pup has learned has built on the foundation established with these little puppy learning games. I'll admit that what I'm doing is a first-time experiment for me, but I really like the results I'm getting.
 
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