From 12 weeks old my male has been highly socialized he is alittle over 2 now and is very aggressive towards other new dogs. At 1.2 years old he was attacked at a training day and has never been the same since. He is great with new people and kids. My question is has anyone been successful training dominance toward other dogs out of a male. Or do you just keep him out of the situations like I have been doing. Thanks for any help.
Semi aggressive dog?
east tx hoghunt
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From 12 weeks old my male has been highly socialized he is alittle over 2 now and is very aggressive towards other new dogs. At 1.2 years old he was attacked at a training day and has never been the same since. He is great with new people and kids. My question is has anyone been successful training dominance toward other dogs out of a male. Or do you just keep him out of the situations like I have been doing. Thanks for any help.
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You can do it but it takes lots of dicipline. It may not be worth the trouble. I would just keep him out of harms way.
Some dogs just don't want to get along with another dog. I saw Jim Gonia go through the exercise and after he was done the two dogs would sit beside each other but not look toward the other dog.
Some dogs just don't want to get along with another dog. I saw Jim Gonia go through the exercise and after he was done the two dogs would sit beside each other but not look toward the other dog.
It could be a fearful response also,,not uncommon for dogs who are attacked to go on the offensive,,,being defensive.
You need a very high level of the control commands,,,there are only 3 you need to start controlling this.
Learn how to manipulate the situation,,and read your dog then counter his thinking.
There are lots of people who are successful . Its takes work and commitment. You must make a habit of this and when you do you won't even realize it and it won't seem like work anymore If you have a passion to learn how,, it will also make you a better dog handler. I would think with all the people in Texas there has to be someone who specializes in this
Pete
You need a very high level of the control commands,,,there are only 3 you need to start controlling this.
Learn how to manipulate the situation,,and read your dog then counter his thinking.
There are lots of people who are successful . Its takes work and commitment. You must make a habit of this and when you do you won't even realize it and it won't seem like work anymore If you have a passion to learn how,, it will also make you a better dog handler. I would think with all the people in Texas there has to be someone who specializes in this
Pete
I agree with Pete on all counts, especially on the "counter his thinking" part. It is also a good possibility that his problem isn't that he is trying to be dominant towards other dogs, but is actually afraid due to the attack he suffered. What you might be seeing is a big show to keep other dogs out of his space. To a dog like this, the best defense is a good offense.
I have a blue heeler like this, and Pete is right - it is a lot of work and commitment to help them. But it can be done. Even with all the work, I still manage the situations I put him in.... I really don't want to take a step backwards and undo all the good training if I can help it!
I have a blue heeler like this, and Pete is right - it is a lot of work and commitment to help them. But it can be done. Even with all the work, I still manage the situations I put him in.... I really don't want to take a step backwards and undo all the good training if I can help it!
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I think you have gotten some good advise from everybody so far. First and foremost do not put him in a situation where he can fail. Thenwork with him being honest, but fair and keep your standards high. IF he were the only dog in the house and his nly job was to be a companion and hunt (without any other dogs) then you might be ok to just deal with it. However, if you are going to run tests/ trials, you have other dogs around and hunt with other guys who might have a dog you will need to deal with it.
The very lsat thing you want is a fight in the holding blind, or him breaking on honor and it going downhill fast. Pete was probably spoon when he said that someone in Texas should be able to help.
The very lsat thing you want is a fight in the holding blind, or him breaking on honor and it going downhill fast. Pete was probably spoon when he said that someone in Texas should be able to help.
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I do know when there have been unforeseen in counters is first reaction is to growl and be aggressive but if the dog is passive then 2 minutes later they are running and playing. This happened while duck hunting one day He was on the bank while we were picking up deks and a ranch dog showed up out of no where. And after the initial in counter they ran around and played for 15 min before we left.
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It was A male also just a mild mannered one.
If this is the case,,,then you have a cake walk. If your dog doesn't jump through plate glass windows or take nose dives off of 2nd story decks to kill another dog which is 200 yards away,,, then you got it easy. This is what I would call very aggressive,,(,this being true to fact is meant here as a figure of speech.)
Your dog sounds somewhat normal in range of behavior. Insecure is all.
Has your dog ever torn another dog to screds,actually tearing into as if to kill. Stomach,haunch,heel bites
Pete
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Lol. The only scrap he was in neither dog broke skin.
My female sounds like she was similar, maybe a little more aggressive even, never did get it out of her but never really looked into a program to try and see if I could, was pretty unpredictable sometimes it was no issue and other times watch out. As stated above i usually just tried to avoid situations that would cause issue.
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Thanks all for the replies.
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Have you tried a class geared toward the Canine Good Citizen or such? Some dog training or kennel clubs host these. Part of that program is to teach a dog to not be reactive to other (well behaved) dogs. It sounds like he's got the foundation for behaving around people but just needs to understand how to act and work in the presence of other dogs. He's still young, so don't give up on that.
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Et hog.
If your refearing to when my dog jumped yours. it was all my fault I didnt realize your dog was out. My dog is agresive mostly to un neutered males, he has alwys been that way. I ussually try to make sure no males are running around close by when I let him out of the truck. Or keep a lead on him.
Hope I didnt cause problems. But you remember when I brought Roux over to your house and your dog played with her, I know it was before the attack
If your refearing to when my dog jumped yours. it was all my fault I didnt realize your dog was out. My dog is agresive mostly to un neutered males, he has alwys been that way. I ussually try to make sure no males are running around close by when I let him out of the truck. Or keep a lead on him.
Hope I didnt cause problems. But you remember when I brought Roux over to your house and your dog played with her, I know it was before the attack
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That is a very good sign. Shows that your dog has bite inhibition, and doesn't necessarily want to harm, but wants others out of his space. I've worked with and "rehabalitated" quite a few dog aggressive dogs. Results vary depending on age of dog, how long the issue has been going on, and how assertive and consistent the handler is. You can generally work with a dog like this pretty safely. Everyone is giving a lot of good advice, find someone in your area who specializes in this type of work and seek help. Since the dog is young, and probably not as bad as you think, it may be worth your time to correct the problem vs just avoiding all situations.
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I had the exact same thing happen to Gunny. It progressed to sudden, short aggressive actions toward my other three dogs when in the aring yard and a couple of times when out training. The "last straw" was when he bit me because I was "petting his head" the "wrong way". I rationalized that this "stuff" would just go away. Being slow on taking a proactive approach was a mistake.
I did a lot of soul searching for awhile. I wallowed in "Why Me? for awhile. There is something very un-nerving about having the dog you raised from a pup, trained every day and suddenly finding blood streaming down your finger after a simple pat on the head.
Fortunately, the idea that aggression is NOT the correct way to deal with aggression was in place. The plan was to clearly define pecking order in my "four pack" and make every single moment of the day a predictable routine. Personal OB 24/7 for Gunny became his "protective umbrella".
Gunny always has a leash on when we go anywhere. When airing they all sit at the door to the airing yard and Gunny is the last to go out. He is fed last and never trained first. When training I always carry a leash with me and he is immediately placed on that leash if any strange dogs appear.
All my dogs are fed in their crates (even before this came up) and they are not just loose in the house without direct supervision. I am retired which makes this simpler.
For almost two years (time flies when you are having fun), there have been zero "events". Gunny went to several hunt tests and had no problems. As was mentioned, I know the "triggers" and avoid them. The other three "know him". When I am supervising EVERY airing session, they give him a wide berth and I occasionally use an indirect pressure by saying "Gunny" if I spot him targeting anyone. It is a 24/7 routine that is working well.
Yesterday, I carelessly did a test (for the want of a better description). It wasn't planned. It just happened. I allowed them to all walk down to the entry to their airing yard without Gunny on a leash. Daisy got too near Gunny and he jumped with a nasty growl and snap. She's part mongoose....no blood...no foul.
What I've learned is Gunny's "issues" are manageable....but it requires a consistent 24/7 approach. I can do this because 99.9% of the time he is just a really talented, fun dog to be with AND I'm retired. He is not my wife's favorite dog.
I did a lot of soul searching for awhile. I wallowed in "Why Me? for awhile. There is something very un-nerving about having the dog you raised from a pup, trained every day and suddenly finding blood streaming down your finger after a simple pat on the head.
Fortunately, the idea that aggression is NOT the correct way to deal with aggression was in place. The plan was to clearly define pecking order in my "four pack" and make every single moment of the day a predictable routine. Personal OB 24/7 for Gunny became his "protective umbrella".
Gunny always has a leash on when we go anywhere. When airing they all sit at the door to the airing yard and Gunny is the last to go out. He is fed last and never trained first. When training I always carry a leash with me and he is immediately placed on that leash if any strange dogs appear.
All my dogs are fed in their crates (even before this came up) and they are not just loose in the house without direct supervision. I am retired which makes this simpler.
For almost two years (time flies when you are having fun), there have been zero "events". Gunny went to several hunt tests and had no problems. As was mentioned, I know the "triggers" and avoid them. The other three "know him". When I am supervising EVERY airing session, they give him a wide berth and I occasionally use an indirect pressure by saying "Gunny" if I spot him targeting anyone. It is a 24/7 routine that is working well.
Yesterday, I carelessly did a test (for the want of a better description). It wasn't planned. It just happened. I allowed them to all walk down to the entry to their airing yard without Gunny on a leash. Daisy got too near Gunny and he jumped with a nasty growl and snap. She's part mongoose....no blood...no foul.
What I've learned is Gunny's "issues" are manageable....but it requires a consistent 24/7 approach. I can do this because 99.9% of the time he is just a really talented, fun dog to be with AND I'm retired. He is not my wife's favorite dog.
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Lol. Your not supposed to out yourself on the Internet !!! Who knows if it would have been different anyway.
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