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RiverRat1

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Can someone please explain the purpose of the walking fetch in retriever training?
Can one skip this step and go to Firce to pile?

How many sessions are needed of walking fetch if it cannot be skipped?

Thanks,
MannyG
 
Can someone please explain the purpose of the walking fetch in retriever training?
Can one skip this step and go to Firce to pile?

How many sessions are needed of walking fetch if it cannot be skipped?

Thanks,
MannyG
This IS the first step of FTP. It makes the step by step transition from FF from the ground to a moving fetch to the pile which is the first step of taking a line to a blind.

Why do you want to bypass it?

JS
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I wanted to pass the Walking fetch because I couldn't see it's I'mportance but now I see what it's meant to do.

How many sessions do u recommend before I can continue to FTP? And I know it all depends on dog, but telle how many sessions it took you so that I can get an idea!!
 
You do the fetch/no fetch until the dog is reliable and sharp but don't belabor it so you bore him to death. You'll have to tell me how many days or weeks that is. ;-)

Mix in some marks every day.

You sound like you are in a hurry??? How old is your dog? Don't get in a hurry ... that's a recipe for trouble down the road. Stay focused on what you're doing today and understand how it fits into tomorrow. Baby steps.

Good luckl.

JS
 
This IS the first step of FTP. It makes the step by step transition from FF from the ground to a moving fetch to the pile which is the first step of taking a line to a blind.

Why do you want to bypass it?

JS
+1!
It's an important component of FF'!

I wanted to pass the Walking fetch because I couldn't see it's I'mportance but now I see what it's meant to do.
Yeah, you don't want to start skipping around your training material. Each concept has it place in building up the fundamentals.

Not only does it lay out some ground work as J.S. mentioned, you're also hammering home the idea to your pup that FETCH is a command, not something pup will do with every bumper it sees- not all birds "belong to you" .
 
+1!
It's an important component of FF'!

Not only does it lay out some ground work as J.S. mentioned, you're also hammering home the idea to your pup that FETCH is a command, not something pup will do with every bumper it sees- not all birds "belong to you" .
Exactly. It's very much about control. I like to use a variety of different bumpers/sizes/shapes, since dogs have their favorites...it gives me just a little more opportunity to make my point regarding which bumpers they get to pick up. I'll have a mixed bag of Dokkens, Averys, canvas, DT, and maybe a half filled water bottle or a wooden buck.
 
It also generalizes FF by adding the motion. Even without FTP as a next goal, walking fetch helps make FF practical, it provides application.
Absolutely correct. Movement tends to disrupt a young developing dog's concentration on a task. Walking Fetch provides motion to FF, which will cause errors the trainer can quickly and efficiently correct to deepen the skill set of FF. There is no distance between dog and trainer to slow down or impede any needed corrections because the dog is still by your side. You want that as solid as possible before assembling the fundamental obedience tasks with those of FF into FTP, which is the fully trained retrieve. This is all Carr-based principle, and represents a vitally important area of sequential development. I would caution against skipping steps, while expecting a top quality result.

Evan
 
Whenever you can break training down into its simplest form to teach proper response and behavior it should be taken. This is a step that only should take a few days, maybe a week. There is nothing to lose and a lot to gain by doing it.

/Paul
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Waking fetch

This really makes a lot of sense. Thanks for all your input guys.

As you can see I'm very green to training retrievers, this is my first dog. I want to learn the concept behind the training and by starting this thread I now have a very good understanding of the Concept of the Waling Fetch.

I also figured that walking fetch might help with bumper shopping by learning to pick up the bumper that it encounters first in the pile just like when doing the Walking Fetch.
 
I also figured that walking fetch might help with bumper shopping by learning to pick up the bumper that it encounters first in the pile just like when doing the Walking Fetch.
Doesn't always work like that.
But that's a bridge you'll cross when you get to it.

Re-enforcing HERE as the dog begins to shop will help.
 
That's a step a lot of folks (including pros) skip these days.
I wonder about skipping stick fetch, perhaps most would just rather do it with just the collar. I like to have multiple ways to correct a dog, seem to proof it more to me, heaven knows sometimes that collar doesn't charge up correctly, always nice to have another tool in the chest just in case ;).
 
I wonder about skipping stick fetch, perhaps most would just rather do it with just the collar. I like to have multiple ways to correct a dog, seem to proof it more to me, heaven knows sometimes that collar doesn't charge up correctly, always nice to have another tool in the chest just in case ;).
Good question. Stick fetch began with two roles to play in the process. One is distraction proofing 'fetch'. I think most trainers these days who stick fetch do it overwhelmingly to accomplish that. But it also was a form of pressure conditioning, and I'm not sure how many work up and down the pressure scale with it as a pressure tool.

I learned SF from John Hahn, a student of Carr's. He taught me the full scope of the process. But when we were doing that as a normal course of training our e-collars were A1-70's; one button, one level. We needed all the pressure conditioning we could get before strapping those on a dog. It wasn't long after the 100-A hit the market that I backed off the stick to only do it as distraction proofing. I've since eliminated it from the usual progression, and only do it with dogs that don't initially accept the collar well, which is very rare.

I don't think there is a thing wrong with doing it as a matter of course. I just don't think it's time efficient with the tools we now use.

Evan
 
You still can get multiple ways of correction if ear pinch was used during FF. I don't use stick fetch but will bump with light collar as well as touch the dogs ear. Stick fetch can be dangerous (meaning developing unwanted problems) if not done correctly. I also don't think its for every dog. JMO
 
Anybody still use a slingshot?
Some Amish trainers still use a slingshot. I was never very accurate beyond 2-3 ft so I used a BB gun during FTP at about 10-15 yds. But that was 30 yrs+ ago. We have a great e-collar technology today & such crude methods are not needed and are certainly not as exacting or effective.

I still do stick fetch because I think it is a good transition to e-collar pressure & also as a distraction. I don't see how it can be dangerous unless you are abusing the dog or swinging wildly. But I only spend 2-3 sessions at most over a 50 yd 10 bumper course. And I do it in the same place I did walking fetch. For both I might also have someone walk another dog within sight to provide additional distraction. But I have to add, I get most every pup of mine to hold & fetch on command prior to FF simply by encouraging "hold" from 6-8 wks old. And they get this encouragement daily. By 6 mos old, they will fetch and hold on command. From that point, my pups only need to be pressure conditioned to make fetch & hold compulsive and to have an introduction to pressure. With that prior "encouragement" training, I go through FF, walking fetch & stick fetch pretty quickly because the dogs are not being asked to do anything they don't already know how to do except that now they are doing it in the presence of pressure & being conditioned to or overcoming the distraction of pressure.
 
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