Just got a new Canon Rebel t3i and wanting to be able to use it while hunting and training the dogs. I am looking at getting a telephoto lens, but will be far in the future before I can do that more than likely. What are some tips to help a newbie to the canine and wildlife photography world out. Tips, tricks, settings, or cheap camera accessories to help me improve.
Let's talk dog pictures
rotcsig443
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That could be a reason why you aren't getting the sharpness you want. When I switched to digital, I kept the same lens, and I saw a degradation in the ability to focus.
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Well shoot! You must be right. There is a focus lock green light that comes on when I half depress the shutter button and it has been lighting up.
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Wayne I think you have a equipment issue, no offence because I know you are trying really hard at this but I can get sharper, more in focus pics with my phone..
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Todd, look at the second photo above. Obviously shot in really flat light so not a lot of snap, but compared to the previous efforts, this image is pretty sharp. Look at the dog's eyes and the stitching on the collar. MUCH sharper than they have been. The dog doesn't look like he is particularly enjoying it, but the image is relatively sharp, you can see the vibrisi (sp) and everything.
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Hugh, That was them best shot of about 50 that I took at various times during the day. I used every possible combination of settings that have been suggested. I think Rowdy was getting worn out.
I think I am going to start researching new equipment.
I think I am going to start researching new equipment.
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Howdy Wayne!
I am not at all familiar with Sony cameras, but both Canon and Nikon (and I suspect newer Sonys) have multiple, selectable focusing points (what I referred to as pippers). They also have assignable buttons that allow you to separate the autofocus function from the shutter button so that you can activate the autofocus by pushing one button and then releasing that button and then using the shutter button to take the photo. Also, many newer lenses have image stabilization which helps eliminate camera induced motion blur. I am a big proponent of previously owned equipment (purchased from a reputable dealer) and I think I have seen Todd voice the same opinion. I personally like KEH.com in Atlanta, and Roberts Imaging in Indianapolis.
I am not at all familiar with Sony cameras, but both Canon and Nikon (and I suspect newer Sonys) have multiple, selectable focusing points (what I referred to as pippers). They also have assignable buttons that allow you to separate the autofocus function from the shutter button so that you can activate the autofocus by pushing one button and then releasing that button and then using the shutter button to take the photo. Also, many newer lenses have image stabilization which helps eliminate camera induced motion blur. I am a big proponent of previously owned equipment (purchased from a reputable dealer) and I think I have seen Todd voice the same opinion. I personally like KEH.com in Atlanta, and Roberts Imaging in Indianapolis.
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Hugh, Thanks for all your help. I am going to try one more test to determine if it is the body or lens. In my library I have some photos that are focused very well using my smaller Sony lens.
If that fails then off to the sites you mentioned for a new camera.
If that fails then off to the sites you mentioned for a new camera.
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Good thing about KEH, you get either a 90 day or six month warranty (can't remember which).
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What do you think? In the originals you can count the individual threads in the collar. So, do you think it is a question of my old Minolta lens not matching with the Sony body?
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It is very possible that the Sony lens is better optically than the old Minolta lens, however, short lenses are easier to use than telephoto lenses generally (greater depth of field, less subject to camera shake induced motion blur), and that might also account for some of the difference. I don't know anything about the Sony lens lineup, but, depending on how old your current tele-zoom is, there may be a newer version with better engineering. The other thing that is in play here is that Todd and I are using lenses that retail new for over $1000.00, and if I remember correctly,Tony Zappia is shooting a 300 F:2.8 which retails over $3000.00. There is a reason folks are willing to pay for those lenses. The optics are noticeably better than the kit lenses. You can get very acceptable results with the kit lenses, but it is a bit unfair to compare them head to head with the "pro" lenses. Pro lenses for Canon and Nikon at least, are usually available previously owned for about 3/4 to 2/3 retail price. Same may be true for Sony.
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Thanks Hugh.
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No problem. It wasn't clear which photo was the old one and which was the new one.
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JMO Wayne....
The ribbons are crisp, but your dog is not...
Just saying.
If you have been following, you know that's what we are working on at the moment. Since he is a full day's drive away from me, and since we can only base our advice on what we can see on the screen (looking at a pretty small file) it is a bit difficult to be sure exactly what is going on. (wish he lived closer)
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Should I get a 70-200 f2.8 or 300 f4? I've read excellent stuff about that 70-200 and have seen them priced pretty affordable used. I haven't read much about the 300. It is less expensive but not as fast. Right now I only have a 17-55 f2.8. The 70-200 would be a little more versatile for me at the moment and I could maybe get a teleconverter later on to reach out a little further. I don't know anything about teleconverters though. Not sure if its worth the cash or just save and buy bigger glass. What do you guys think?
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