My question is how would a person work his dog on marking without a helper. I have a launcher and that is how i do it how do you.
marking without a helper
timn
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I am pleased to see so many interested in Training Retrievers Alone. My new DVDs on this topic are now done. The 75 page manual has a lot of detail and is undergoing print lay-out this weekend. With any luck, we should be able to begin production and be ready to release sometime in February. I'll let you all know on RTF when you get get it at www.ybsmedia.com. After all this time, I'll be as glad to see it out as you might be:razz:
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Cheers
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i was worried that a remote release could teach my dog some bad habit i am not yet aware of, but from seeing you guys use it with success i am encouraged. i have done mostly as a second bird, launching one remotely then i throw the "go bird", and we walk back to the line and go for the memory bird.
have also done it when taking action photos, so i may as well do more marks also!
great thread!
have also done it when taking action photos, so i may as well do more marks also!
great thread!
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RN- thanks for the "close-up"!! i like the archery release idea....is that the patriot sure fire?
got out solo today...picked a field that we hadnt worked yet and just so happened had what i was looking for, flat/ bare slightly elevated sending line, cover knee to hip high for the flight out and flat/ sparse fall zone. used the wingers and "bill's" bumper boy.
worked out just great!! even had a place for my "kwick" bucket!
http://picasaweb.google.com/coachcarroll/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCKH38YT27d6SEQ#
got out solo today...picked a field that we hadnt worked yet and just so happened had what i was looking for, flat/ bare slightly elevated sending line, cover knee to hip high for the flight out and flat/ sparse fall zone. used the wingers and "bill's" bumper boy.
worked out just great!! even had a place for my "kwick" bucket!
http://picasaweb.google.com/coachcarroll/DropBox?authkey=Gv1sRgCKH38YT27d6SEQ#
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Very cool thread...I will be ordering from Dennis as soon as it is available. These ideas, thanks Kwick, also offer promise for small training groups.
Snick
Snick
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I attended a Mike Lardy seminar a couple years ago in Georgia and watched Dennis demo some of the techniques he employs while training alone. Great demo! Been using what he demo'd ever since. Can't wait for the video.
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My pups are early on introduced to a place board by feeding them on one. It is a daily "fixture". When doing early OB they walk across one, sit on it and will begin remote "sit/here" off it. A great side benefit is repetitive "square facing" sits.
However, with an older dog (that is not imprinted early on), getting them comfortable (on and off) using OB and remote sits is the simplest. Once they "adjust" and if they can "handle" (take casts), the easiest way to transition to remote marking (where you stay in the field) is to "ladder" yourself away (throwing marks) and casting back from increasing distances. At first, you may have to walk the dog back and "help" him understand the routine. Making a game out of it and teaching is very effective. However, they need to be comfortable getting "on and off"........first.
The initial command from a distance is "place/back" (if they know what "back" means). The sooner you can transition to simply saying "place" (as a cast) the better. I think it is important for a dog to understand the difference in the "place" cast as opposed to "back" (for bllinds).
Now if the dog is not skilled in handling (young), it is still possible to teach the dog a routine where they will return on their own. I always use a place board when doing three handed casting. They learn quickly where they have to "go and be" to continue the drill.
The best approach is based on reading a dog's skill level and designing the proper teaching mode to achieve the desired expectation. It is my experience a "What's next?" dog that loves to train will catch on quickly at most any age.
"solo/remote line X-Box plus two marking drill (angled in/back & flat singles)"
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However, with an older dog (that is not imprinted early on), getting them comfortable (on and off) using OB and remote sits is the simplest. Once they "adjust" and if they can "handle" (take casts), the easiest way to transition to remote marking (where you stay in the field) is to "ladder" yourself away (throwing marks) and casting back from increasing distances. At first, you may have to walk the dog back and "help" him understand the routine. Making a game out of it and teaching is very effective. However, they need to be comfortable getting "on and off"........first.
The initial command from a distance is "place/back" (if they know what "back" means). The sooner you can transition to simply saying "place" (as a cast) the better. I think it is important for a dog to understand the difference in the "place" cast as opposed to "back" (for bllinds).
Now if the dog is not skilled in handling (young), it is still possible to teach the dog a routine where they will return on their own. I always use a place board when doing three handed casting. They learn quickly where they have to "go and be" to continue the drill.
The best approach is based on reading a dog's skill level and designing the proper teaching mode to achieve the desired expectation. It is my experience a "What's next?" dog that loves to train will catch on quickly at most any age.
"solo/remote line X-Box plus two marking drill (angled in/back & flat singles)"
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