My nine month old male pup is doing great. Except for a nice square whistle sit. Is it better to physically walk out and reposition him or use the whistle to get him square? My goal is for him to handle like a corvette not a dump truck!
How did you get him to this point? Did you do 3-handed casting and convert it to Mini-T? Did you do this with a rope/check cord? If so, that's how you square up and sharpen the sit.My nine month old male pup is doing great. Except for a nice square whistle sit. Is it better to physically walk out and reposition him or use the whistle to get him square? My goal is for him to handle like a corvette not a dump truck!
I know the come-in whistle is a popular treatment, but I would caution you in a couple ways. First, it doesn't tend to produce lasting results. That's very important. But in place of the crooked sit will tend to be the expectation that your dog now has that when you call him ("toot" - "toot") he only needs to come a couple feet.I'm using Tri-Tronics Retriever Training with Jim Dobbs, I know, old school, but it works for me and is easy to understand. We are currently doing double T work ( weather permitting) and he does a good job except for sitting square at the intersections. I can square him up with a come in whistle and a quick sit whistle. I just don't know if this is the right thing to do. Guess I can always go back to the rope!
Yup. My dog did exactly what Evan describes here. I now only use the whistle to straighten a crooked sit in must do situations.I know the come-in whistle is a popular treatment, but I would caution you in a couple ways. First, it doesn't tend to produce lasting results. That's very important. But in place of the crooked sit will tend to be the expectation that your dog now has that when you call him ("toot" - "toot") he only needs to come a couple feet.
I've seen so many that did that be virtue of this treatment, and they won't come when the handler needs them to, especially at the end of blinds when they've passed the bird, and instead of coming as called the dog goes into a hunt.
It may work fairly well, but there are more efficient ways.
Evan
I am pretty sure I read in Lardy's material that you do not worry too much about this if the dog cast well from a crooked sit. It is all about the cast.I'm just wondering how many think the square sit thing is overrated/over-emphasized. I say that because I've seen the tendency in most dogs to sit pretty squarely near the handler and more askew farther away from the line after they've gained momentum. In Lardy's videos, few of the dogs sit perfectly squarely. In Open trials, few of the dogs sit squarely. Yet, most of the dogs handle very well.
I'm not saying or even implying that it shouldn't be something taught to the dogs in the early going. What I'm saying is that at some point, if the dog is handling well, how much is really to be gained by trying to square up the sit at any distance in relation to the time involved?
Guess it all depends on whether you are training or testing.I'm just wondering how many think the square sit thing is overrated/over-emphasized. I say that because I've seen the tendency in most dogs to sit pretty squarely near the handler and more askew farther away from the line after they've gained momentum. In Lardy's videos, few of the dogs sit perfectly squarely. In Open trials, few of the dogs sit squarely. Yet, most of the dogs handle very well.
I'm not saying or even implying that it shouldn't be something taught to the dogs in the early going. What I'm saying is that at some point, if the dog is handling well, how much is really to be gained by trying to square up the sit at any distance in relation to the time involved?
I am pleased with your goals!My goal is for him to handle like a corvette not a dump truck!
I'm using Tri-Tronics Retriever Training with Jim Dobbs, I know, old school, but it works for me and is easy to understand.!
One of the best, most efficient, and useful tools in a dog trainer's arsenal.I really hate rope!
Come on, D. Lardy's dogs aren't "trained to the highest standard" because he's not correcting for angled sits in advanced training??? Many of the machine-like Open dogs I've seen smoking blinds are somehow trained to a lower standard because they may sit at a 45 degree angle or more? That's basically what you're saying. As Lardy put it in his "Marking" videos, at some point you just accept a dog's idiosyncracies as long as they're not interfering with his or her performance even in training. As long as a dog is handling well, it just seems most pro trainers think there are bigger fish to fry than straight sits from 200 yards away.Guess it all depends on whether you are training or testing.
During training I'd want to make sure the dog was trained to the highest standard possible, but during a test/trial it's all about results. Yes/No???
J, of course Lardy's dogs are trained to the highest standard. Just remember, gward is not talking about advanced training. I'm simply trying to address gward's original post by saying he/we ought to be training to the highest standards. And IMHO, that means training a young dog to sit squarely. You ought to at least start out teaching a young dog to sit squarely on the whistle...Yes/No???Come on, D. Lardy's dogs aren't "trained to the highest standard" because he's not correcting for angled sits in advanced training??? Many of the machine-like Open dogs I've seen smoking blinds are somehow trained to a lower standard because they may sit at a 45 degree angle or more? That's basically what you're saying. As Lardy put it in his "Marking" videos, at some point you just accept a dog's idiosyncracies as long as they're not interfering with his or her performance even in training. As long as a dog is handling well, it just seems most pro trainers think there are bigger fish to fry than straight sits from 200 yards away.