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Question - cleaning shotgun with Break Free CLP

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rhill14

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, so I just bought a new SX3 and just gave her the initial cleaning to get all the junk off the factory puts on it. Called winchester customer service because I was worried about what to clean with and they told me break free wont hurt the dura touch finish if I get some one there so thats what I went with. First time ever using break free by the way - which is where my question comes from. Broke it down completely trigger group, bolt, mag spring etc. and cleaned it really well with break free and let it air dry for about 20 mins and went back and gave it a second coat of break free. It seems like theres virtually nothing on it - very thin film, that I can barely feel when I run my finger over it. Im used to my 870 using just regular hopps liquid oil, not the aerasol like break free is and it leaves a considerably thicker coat of oil on the gun. Do I need to thicken the coat of break free up on all the internals? Anyone that uses break free I would love some knowledge and also any SX3 shooters does the gun run better with it heavily lubed or just the thin film I described?

Also for SX3 shooters - the winchester CS guy told me to also the the butt pad off and take the buttstock off to get into the bolt recoil spring and clean it also, but the manual didnt mention anything about this. Did any of you guys do this? Is this an in - depth take down and put back together? Thanks for any help
 
#2 ·
I don't have a winchester, but for my semi-autos I do clean with the clp, but I add a heavier oil to coat. I stay away from Rem oil though as it can get gummy in cold conditions. I have had no issues, with using hopes oil, just like what you mentioned. FYI

Kevin
 
#6 ·
I have used CLP in every shotgun I own for about as long as it has been available to us civies. Don't fret, it will do a great job.
 
#9 ·
Regarding the but stock, yes, the bolt carrier slides back into there and there's a spring inside that as well. Typically in my Maxus I'll do regular cleanings throughout the year and then bring it in to my gunsmith to have him go over it super good after spring snow goose season. For the $40 it's worth it and then they can inspect spring tension or any strange wear areas that should be addressed.
 
#10 ·
rhill14 said:
cleaned it really well with break free and let it air dry for about 20 mins and went back and gave it a second coat of break free. It seems like theres virtually nothing on it - very thin film, that I can barely feel when I run my finger over it.
Click to expand...
Just making sure here, not attempting to insult you.
You did use Break-Free CLP and not just Break-Free(Cleaner) right?

Don't laugh! I've seen it done lol

Guy thought he was applying some sort of Dry-Lube spray. Turns out it was just cleaner and not a lubricant.

I run a Sportsman Gun Forum, I've seen and/or heard it all before.

Just checking :wink:
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the info guys. I thought it was probly fine but its a brand new shotgun and the last thing i want to do it screw something up before even gettin to use it for a season.

Ya, DustinD, its break- free CLP. Just never used a all in one product like that.

Thanks again for the help.
 
#12 ·
Dustin D said:
Just making sure here, not attempting to insult you.
You did use Break-Free CLP and not just Break-Free(Cleaner) right?

Don't laugh! I've seen it done lol

Guy thought he was applying some sort of Dry-Lube spray. Turns out it was just cleaner and not a lubricant.

I run a Sportsman Gun Forum, I've seen and/or heard it all before.

Just checking :wink:
Click to expand...
The Break Free scrubber stuff is BAD BAD news on the coating of the outside of shotguns these days. It'll take that coating material right off the metal in no time flat. Even overspray of their PowderBlast, I believe that's what it's called, will leave little white marks discoloring the coating.
 
#13 ·
Most people tend to overlube shotguns. A light coat of CLP will be fine for the weapon. Clean it regularly and you won't have an issue. Make sure to take care of the recoil spring if there is one in the buttstock as they tend to be gunk collectors which cause semiautos to slow down and malfunction in cold weather if left untouched.

1911's and M4's (all AR variants) are meant to be run wet as possible unless you use Frog Lube, which is a dry lube.
 
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#14 ·
On a shotgun clp is fine. On a rifle its ok to lube with , but not as a cleaner. It will get some of the powder fouling and such, but will not touch the copper.

I've fell in love with a product called wipeout. I've got a tikka that copper fouls bad, but this stuff takes it right out.
 
#15 ·
sleeperls said:
On a shotgun clp is fine. On a rifle its ok to lube with , but not as a cleaner. It will get some of the powder fouling and such, but will not touch the copper.

I've fell in love with a product called wipeout. I've got a tikka that copper fouls bad, but this stuff takes it right out.
Click to expand...
For cleaning, I use Hoppe's copper and Hoppe's #9. I've also used Powder Blaster, which works okay to clean out debris in the trigger assembly. It also works well on the M4 and AR's.
 
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#16 ·
Try the wipeout Mike. I too love the smell of hoppes, but i literately Love this stuff.

I spray it down the bore and wipe it out in the morning. I really dont even have to brush if i dont shoot alot. It also has a rust preventative in it, but i still run a patch or two of clp.

I lube my M4's and 1911's with this.

http://www.weaponshield.com/page2.htm

It might still work, if you email them and request a sample they send you a 1oz pen applicator. I've had it for two years and just now about halfway gone. It does not take much, and stays wet unlike clp.

I always do a base layer of clp then go over with the weapon shield.
 
#17 ·
sleeperls said:
Try the wipeout Mike. I too love the smell of hoppes, but i literately Love this stuff.

I spray it down the bore and wipe it out in the morning. I really dont even have to brush if i dont shoot alot. It also has a rust preventative in it, but i still run a patch or two of clp.

I lube my M4's and 1911's with this.

http://www.weaponshield.com/page2.htm

It might still work, if you email them and request a sample they send you a 1oz pen applicator. I've had it for two years and just now about halfway gone. It does not take much, and stays wet unlike clp.

I always do a base layer of clp then go over with the weapon shield.
Click to expand...

Interesting stuff. I looked at that when I decided to change lubes on the 1911's. No matter what, BF runs to a degree which gets into the gun leather and breaks it down a bit. I put two of my Kimbers into Frog Lube and so far so good. No hint of galling on the stainless so I'll probably move the Colt Delta Elite to Frog Lube and eventually do the same to the M4 and CAR A3.

I am a little concerned about the black guns as this stuff appears as if there is no lube on the weapon at all. Put a heat gun to the parts and watch the stuff come out fo the pores. Pretty amazing, but a more time consuming process.
 
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