[Nate_C]

OK did a set of three blinds.

1. Two whistle stops, good blind
2. There are two hills going down. both pulled him to the right. Corrected but alittle off to the right the whole time, ok blind
3. A mess. he kept hunting in the trees. Wouldn't take a back. I pulled him in then hard back which finally got him through it. This was the first long blind through something like that. I didn't draw the line that great. I was fighting him to get him through the gap in the trees. Kept pulling right.

My question is what is next to work on this. Run it again as a memory blind or should I pull things back? I have been keeping it pretty simple but I tried to push him today to see how he would respond. he never refused the whistle, would just take flat back so he could hunt in the trees where he thought it was. I never corrected him with the collar because I knew I was asking alot.

 

[Nate_C]

More accurate drawing

 

[Jerry S.]

Number 1 and 2 look like they were planted near trees, dog's thinking was number three must be also, especially since it was between 1 & 2 and the trees he hunted were nearly the same distance as number 2.
I would spread out my blinds a bit more since you are in teaching mode. I would also not have such a large visual, (tree), for the dog to run to. I would also vary the distance a bit more.
My .02.

 

[Ian]

I agree with Watchm with utilizing the trees as your visual for the dog to run to. If you like this setup then very the depth of the blind in line with the trees if that helps you, but more importantly is teaching your dog to push thru the barrier that he sees with Blind number 3. I would move up to simplify the blind. Keep moving forward until he pushes thru the tree line. Then back up again in 15-20 yard increments until you are back at the original line. This may take a couple days but he will learn the concept. When he has number three down try running all three again. I would also find another field that you can set up a similar test and see how he does. JMO, hope this helps!

 

[Frenchy]

Yep had the same thoughts. By running the first two, you taught the young dog that it was only so far out and near the trees.

When he started having problems with the third, what did you do? Stay put? I would of walked up closer and closer with each cast refusal until the dog took the correct cast through the trees. Just because you started from the original line doesn't mean YOU need to stay there.

 

[John Robinson]

I would start with the long one. Teach him to punch the cover (trees) first, then shorten up later after the dog has learned to hold a line through cover, water, ect.

 

[Evan]

OK did a set of three blinds.

My question is what is next to work on this. Run it again as a memory blind or should I pull things back? I have been keeping it pretty simple but I tried to push him today to see how he would respond. he never refused the whistle, would just take flat back so he could hunt in the trees where he thought it was. I never corrected him with the collar because I knew I was asking alot.

A couple points and comments.

1. 110 yards is not a long blind by most standards. Your Back pile on the T was 100, wasn't it?
2. Is this dog transitioned to a cold blind standard? If so, why would you re-run a blind?

If the dog is transitioning well on cold blinds, I like the idea of the two first blinds influencing the longer one. But how about the first two items? Is 110 yards about as long as your cold blinds tend to be?

Evan

 

[BHB]

I don't know if you have considered this... if you have then just disregard.

I have learned that if a dog gets a blind at the base of a tree once they will continually look at the base of trees for the bird/bumper. If I plant the blind between trees or out in the field beyond the trees the dog will have to learn that the bird/bumper is not always at the base of a tree. Thus, they should understand to obey rather than look on their own.

Just a thought.

BHB