[Flywheel]

I have a YLM that is breaking on the shot during hunting and also crowding me when we're hunkered down waiting for birds, so hopefully posting here will help me kill 2 birds with 1 stone. He is 1/2 way through MH tests, so he does well in training and tests (usually ), but hunting with him is turning into a pain.

Problem - 1A

He'll break on the shot, and sometimes on me or anyone nearby shouldering. I've tried (tried, real hard) not shooting and letting others shoot, and there is progress there, but the moment I shoot, we're back to breaking. I thought of giving the controller to someone else, but not sure how eager another hunter will be to interrupt their hunt and let me hunt. Plus, I hunt by myself sometimes, so still need a better solution.​

Problem - 1B

In the field, we typically hunt from the back side of a levee or ditch, and occasionally a blind. He loves to lay right up against me, or even worse right above me on the levee. He's good in that he'll sit/lay quietly the whole time, but its not fun having a wet dog laying on me for a couple hours. I've tried picking him up and moving him away (usually restricted to just 2-3 feet away), but he keeps slowly crawling back to me. Any collar correction, because of the close proximity, just makes him rush towards me instead of sticking in place.​

Problem - 2 thru infinity - his owner

I'd like to use possibly a mat or platform that could work in low-profile places like a rice field and/or adjust to deeper flooded fields, if any exist. I've also thought of a dog blind, but wonder how they work for passing birds that come in from all angles some mornings. I know staking him out, some believe leads to him honoring the stake and not me, but was thinking I could use the stake as backup and "punishment" for breaking if he's off the stake, by clipping him back up once he breaks, and not letting him get the next few birds. I just wonder if these tools help to correct the problem or avoid the problem, and so I'd have to use a platform or blind every time I hunt him?

Any tips, would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Kenneth Niles Bora]

I know staking him out, some believe leads to him honoring the stake and not me, but was thinking I could use the stake as backup and "punishment" for breaking if he's off the stake, by clipping him back up once he breaks,.

why wait until he breaks?
the joy of the rope is he, like you, is able to relax!
enjoy the hunt

 

[yellow machine]

Do you practice with an ecollar? Do you have an ecollar on the dog hunting?

 

[Gary Southall]

I agree with Ken. They made rope for a reason. I'm guessing he is a young dog being he is 1/2 way through his Masters Title. I don't think you should let him break and then try to correct that, stop the breaking and if it takes rope then use it. If it takes rope and a E-collar then use that.

 

[HNTFSH]

I've no shame staking my young dog in this first season. For lots of reasons, especially 4-6 hours in the ground blind (which is pretty big). He did decide to chew through the rope quietly.

Then after I tied the two ends together he untied the knot.

Now it's a light chain.

Not sure how old/how many hunts your dog has been on but I don't count on a blind veteran dog till about 3 years or two full seasons. Especially running Roosters one day and hunting ducks the next. Doesn't mean they can't be stellar test dogs before then though.

 

[jd6400]

I have a YLM that is breaking on the shot during hunting and also crowding me when we're hunkered down waiting for birds, so hopefully posting here will help me kill 2 birds with 1 stone. He is 1/2 way through MH tests, so he does well in training and tests (usually ), but hunting with him is turning into a pain.

Problem - 1A

He'll break on the shot, and sometimes on me or anyone nearby shouldering. I've tried (tried, real hard) not shooting and letting others shoot, and there is progress there, but the moment I shoot, we're back to breaking. I thought of giving the controller to someone else, but not sure how eager another hunter will be to interrupt their hunt and let me hunt. Plus, I hunt by myself sometimes, so still need a better solution.​

Problem - 1B

In the field, we typically hunt from the back side of a levee or ditch, and occasionally a blind. He loves to lay right up against me, or even worse right above me on the levee. He's good in that he'll sit/lay quietly the whole time, but its not fun having a wet dog laying on me for a couple hours. I've tried picking him up and moving him away (usually restricted to just 2-3 feet away), but he keeps slowly crawling back to me. Any collar correction, because of the close proximity, just makes him rush towards me instead of sticking in place.​

Problem - 2 thru infinity - his owner

I'd like to use possibly a mat or platform that could work in low-profile places like a rice field and/or adjust to deeper flooded fields, if any exist. I've also thought of a dog blind, but wonder how they work for passing birds that come in from all angles some mornings. I know staking him out, some believe leads to him honoring the stake and not me, but was thinking I could use the stake as backup and "punishment" for breaking if he's off the stake, by clipping him back up once he breaks, and not letting him get the next few birds. I just wonder if these tools help to correct the problem or avoid the problem, and so I'd have to use a platform or blind every time I hunt him?

Any tips, would be greatly appreciated.

Flywheel,if you want a well behaved dog and steady you should be prepared to put your gun down for this season and let your buddies shoot and you make corrections when needed.If your consistent (which 95% owners aren`t) and get plenty of exposure for your animal by the end of this season he should fine.

Be prepared next season to repeat process for a few hunts and you should be good to go.But always be prepared to go back.CONSISTENCY is the key.What you have explained is the norm and it`s like pulling teeth tryin to get OWNERS TO LISTEN.

Tim Doane put a video up of a dog he sold to a client awhile back......My reply was "looks like you got a good client"...That dog was a rock,and I know damn well the owner had done alot to keep him that way.

I truly believe that tying him up is going to TEACH him anything.But collar correction to "sit will. Good luck.Jim

 

[Brettttka]

tie him up or put a slip lead on him and stand on one end. My dog is steady as can be but the first few shots in the morning he wants to break as soon as the guns go off.

 

[Jay Brown]

RULE 1. You train to go hunting ! You do not go hunting to train. This pisses people off and lessens your chances to be invited back! A dog must be solid in everything to be in a blind or boat.
2. If you are not willing to tie your dog to a stake or forsake shooting while others do to control your dog, then the dog is not ready to go hunting.
3. You alone are responsible for your dogs actions, manners, etc.. Everybody wants to hunt with their dog, but there are times when everybody can not take their dogs. KNOW when it is your time to not take your dog.
JB

 

[mjh345]

RULE 1. You train to go hunting ! You do not go hunting to train. This pisses people off and lessens your chances to be invited back! A dog must be solid in everything to be in a blind or boat.
2. If you are not willing to tie your dog to a stake or forsake shooting while others do to control your dog, then the dog is not ready to go hunting.
3. You alone are responsible for your dogs actions, manners, etc.. Everybody wants to hunt with their dog, but there are times when everybody can not take their dogs. KNOW when it is your time to not take your dog.
JB

What he said!!

 

[HNTFSH]

Flywheel,if you want a well behaved dog and steady you should be prepared to put your gun down for this season and let your buddies shoot and you make corrections when needed.If your consistent (which 95% owners aren`t) and get plenty of exposure for your animal by the end of this season he should fine.

Be prepared next season to repeat process for a few hunts and you should be good to go.But always be prepared to go back.CONSISTENCY is the key.What you have explained is the norm and it`s like pulling teeth tryin to get OWNERS TO LISTEN.

Tim Doane put a video up of a dog he sold to a client awhile back......My reply was "looks like you got a good client"...That dog was a rock,and I know damn well the owner had done alot to keep him that way.

I truly believe that tying him up is going to TEACH him anything.But collar correction to "sit will. Good luck.Jim

Jim, largely agree but then I've seen dogs that break only when the handler shoots. Then there's the guys that mostly hunt alone.

I do think more handler shot flyers in training helps. As does NOT allowing the dog to break hunting by sequester. Putting the gun down early in the dogs career is a good idea, but an entire season seems unrealistic. Particularly for a shot breaking issue. And I sure has heck don't want a dog nestled up to me the whole hunt either. ;-)

Learning the 'game' in the blind is as important as learning to be steady IMO.

 

[Golddogs]

I have a YLM that is breaking on the shot during hunting and also crowding me when we're hunkered down waiting for birds, so hopefully posting here will help me kill 2 birds with 1 stone. He is 1/2 way through MH tests, so he does well in training and tests (usually ), but hunting with him is turning into a pain.

Problem - 1A

He'll break on the shot, and sometimes on me or anyone nearby shouldering. I've tried (tried, real hard) not shooting and letting others shoot, and there is progress there, but the moment I shoot, we're back to breaking. I thought of giving the controller to someone else, but not sure how eager another hunter will be to interrupt their hunt and let me hunt. Plus, I hunt by myself sometimes, so still need a better solution.​

Problem - 1B

In the field, we typically hunt from the back side of a levee or ditch, and occasionally a blind. He loves to lay right up against me, or even worse right above me on the levee. He's good in that he'll sit/lay quietly the whole time, but its not fun having a wet dog laying on me for a couple hours. I've tried picking him up and moving him away (usually restricted to just 2-3 feet away), but he keeps slowly crawling back to me. Any collar correction, because of the close proximity, just makes him rush towards me instead of sticking in place.​

Problem - 2 thru infinity - his owner

I'd like to use possibly a mat or platform that could work in low-profile places like a rice field and/or adjust to deeper flooded fields, if any exist. I've also thought of a dog blind, but wonder how they work for passing birds that come in from all angles some mornings. I know staking him out, some believe leads to him honoring the stake and not me, but was thinking I could use the stake as backup and "punishment" for breaking if he's off the stake, by clipping him back up once he breaks, and not letting him get the next few birds. I just wonder if these tools help to correct the problem or avoid the problem, and so I'd have to use a platform or blind every time I hunt him?

Any tips, would be greatly appreciated.

Put the gun away and handle the dog.

 

[tim bonnema]

First Raise your training standard. Watch the dog not the bird and if he even twitches make him pay for his sins. Only when he is rock steady do you allow him to retrieve the bird.

Second. Stake him out with a good, solid anchor point and just enough leash to allow him to move slightly (no one can stay in one place forever) then only allow him to retrieve when he is steady and quite.

My first trip to Canada I spent a lot of time on both these behaviors. This year he was a totally different dog. Far from perfect (lots of temptation when 7 guys are shooting and white birds are falling all around you).

I will always hunt my dogs but I also hold the same standard in training and hunting.

"so he does well in training and tests (usually )" This statement is why I said to raise your training standard. Yes some judges will allow a slight creep. Me as a handler I will not.

 

[Flywheel]

Thanks for all the tips, everyone. I'll give the staking out approach a shot, since hopefully that will keep me dry and teach not just to be steady, but also he'll hopefully pick up that birds fall all over, not just in front of us.

I have a stainless corkscrew stake and Mendota Versa-Lead already, but wondering if I'll need something beefier/quieter/easier to unclip for the field.

 

[Chris Bergner]

Careful with the corkscrew stakes, my brothers dog got its foot caught in the triangle and put a nice gash in her leg. It put her out of commission for a few weeks.

I have one for a stake out (training, drying off, bathing, etc), but used black gorilla duct tape to cover the triangle. Don't want to risk a stupid injury that is easily avoidable.

 

[Irishwhistler]

Flywheel,if you want a well behaved dog and steady you should be prepared to put your gun down for this season and let your buddies shoot and you make corrections when needed.If your consistent (which 95% owners aren`t) and get plenty of exposure for your animal by the end of this season he should fine.

Be prepared next season to repeat process for a few hunts and you should be good to go.But always be prepared to go back.CONSISTENCY is the key.What you have explained is the norm and it`s like pulling teeth tryin to get OWNERS TO




LISTEN.

Tim Doane put a video up of a dog he sold to a client awhile back......My reply was "looks like you got a good client"...That dog was a rock,and I know damn well the owner had done alot to keep him that way.

I truly believe that tying him up is going to TEACH him anything.But collar correction to "sit will. Good luck.Jim[/QUOTE/

Jd6400 has it completely correct. You need to put your hunting on the back burner and make your corrections with consistency and correct timing. It should make a huge difference in a relatively short period of time.

As for him laying against you, that could be him asserting his dominance upon you. You need to establish or re-establish yourself as his leader. Make sure you realize that any weaknesses demonstrated by you will likely be perceived by and transfered to the dog.

Irishwhistler

 

[DropinBack]

Yes to the Stake....

 

[metalone67]

Thanks for all the tips, everyone. I'll give the staking out approach a shot, since hopefully that will keep me dry and teach not just to be steady, but also he'll hopefully pick up that birds fall all over, not just in front of us.

I have a stainless corkscrew stake and Mendota Versa-Lead already, but wondering if I'll need something beefier/quieter/easier to unclip for the field.

Those screw don't work worth a dang, buy a true dog tie out. Most are 3/4 rod with a swivel at the top and have about 24" of cable or chain. Only draw back is you will need to take a hammer with you.
If you decide to use your screw in, put it behind your blind and use a lead long enough he can lay beside you this way there is no risk of him getting caught in it.

 

[Steve Hamel]

Sorry to say but I don't agree with staking dogs out to keep them steady. Stop hunting the dog and train to a higher standard if you can't achieve what you are looking for.

When we train young or misbehaving dogs for hunting , we often times use elevated platforms for steadiness training. We use pump shotguns with primer loads, and have birds thrown from hidden gun stations landing dirrectly in front of us among the decoys. We put alot of temptation on the dog to break. If it stays put it's rewarded with the retrieve. If it doesn't.............. well, you get the picture. Calmness, and patience on the dogs part is rewarded. Lots of honors.

If you can't achieve it consistantly in training, you wont get it in a real hunting scenario. It's hard work and alot of frustration .

 

[Hunt'EmUp]

The way I see it is you one one of 2 choices; 1) get better and perhaps harder on the collar; so he thinks about in next time, or 2) stake him out this season, enjoy your hunt and train on it when you actually have time.
I don't like the staking dogs out either; thus I've gotten pretty good with collar and gun control; I've still had dogs run through it but trust me they're getting correction all the way out and all the way back, enough that they think about it next time. But in the scheme of things; you've got a young dog, that you don't want habits becoming ingrained in, and hunting season only lasts a couple of months. So it would be forgivable to stake him out this year, and train him for it in the off-season. This way you still get to enjoy your hunting season, shoot birds and not have to retrieve them yourself; which is probably why you got a dog in the first place . I'm a hunter first; dog trainer maybe 3rd or 4th thus I have never understood the put your gun-away (work the dog) mentality, I'm sure it works (but I bought this dog to help me hunt). Dogs out there getting exposure and your out hunting nothing wrong with using tools (even a stake) to make that more enjoyable.

 

[tuckerdutch]

I've been staking my dog this season...her first for ducks. I also hunt her alone or with a buddy whose patient. If I'm hunting with a friend who's not we use his dog. It's like when I was learning golf...i wouldn't go out with scratch players or super serious golfers til I knew I wouldn't be a nuisance.