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WRL

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Looking to put concrete in my kennel building in the next few weeks.

Was told the simplest way to heat the floors was running glycol through pipes imbedded in the concrete that circulates as a closed system through a hot water tank.

Has anyone used this type of system? Is it the best?

I don't need to "heat" the building per se but need to keep it from freezing and heat the floors enough that they dry fairly quickly.

Any ideas?

WRL
 
Lee,
Butch put the radient heating system in the floors of his kennel.I love it. We went training one day and wanted to say by to our dog before we left. I thought he would be soaked still but, he was already dry...I love it. My hubby is a plumber and he says that would be the most efficient way to do it. I think it's the wirsbo(SP) system.
 
I have a system very similiar to what you describe. Mine is very simply and basic and has worked fine for 10 years with little service. From what I can remember ..........I put down stone (compacted), then a few inches of sand and tamped and leveled. Then a vapor barrier (roll of clear plastic), next 2" blueboard insulation and then wire mesh on top of that (I think 6"square grid pattern). I tyed the tubing to the grid pattern of the wire mesh w/ tyes that the manufacturer supplied in an "S" pattern. I was told to leave the mesh at the bottom of the pour (without pulling it up into the concrete as you pour). I also used reinforced (fiberglass) concrete. I use a hot water tank and circulating pump (I had a plumber do this part) w/antifreeze/water mix.

I am in a cold area and have running water in the kennel that never freezes......however I will probably put a furnace in when the hot water tank goes. I keep the kennel around 60 degrees - but in Jan/Feb with the wind howling outside and all the little inefficient dog doors it can get down around 50

I am sure others can give you directions for more elaborate systems ..... but that is what works for me. Hope that helps
 
I believe if you do a search on radiant flooring you will find a ton of info on it.

If nothing else just put the pipes in your new floor now and finish the system when the time comes. I am getting ready to build a kennel and am going to do just this. It is quite a bit of cost up front, but in the long run it is one of the best ways to heat a building that is being drafted by doors, wind, or just airflow in general. A lot of farmers around here are heating their machine shed shops with this system.

How big is the kennel? If you're just looking to keep the floors warm and not really heat the area, you might be able to get by with just a regular hot water heater.
 
Look at a web site: http://www.warmlyyours.com

The advantage to doing this with electricity is that you don'r neeed any pumps or any moving parts. I have warmly yours floors in bathrooms in the house. They are terrific. Thermostat and timer controls. It can be put down by a homeowner. They will design it for you. Details on the site.

Eric
 
Hello everyone,
My name is Jack. I’m new to training (6mth blm) I’ve been lurking and learning a lot thanks to all of you. I am in the trade of plumbing/HVAC. Anyone building a kennel or anything requiring heat, I would recommend hydronic in floor heat.

Pasquatch, before you install a furnace check out an aqua coil. Physically it looks like a furnace but instead of burning a fuel into a heat exchanger. It has a coil inside. Hot water is generated by a boiler or water heater and circulated through the unit. It’s the same principle as a car radiator except the heat gets blown through duct work or they are available in a ceiling hung unit without ductwork.

Also, if you use a boiler you have the option to have hot water through an indirect water heater.

Google Heating Help It’s a site where professionals hang out and talk shop. There is no registration and I have no affiliation with the site other than talking shop. Go to the section “find a pro” type in you zip code and get pro’s in your area.

Sorry this was a long post. I got excited that I finally had something to contribute. Good Luck…..Jack.
 
A trainer friend had her brother, who is a contractor, suggest an overheat some type of system instead of floor and it's really hot. I think it is heated air?
 
Looking to put concrete in my kennel building in the next few weeks.

Was told the simplest way to heat the floors was running glycol through pipes imbedded in the concrete that circulates as a closed system through a hot water tank.

Has anyone used this type of system? Is it the best?

I don't need to "heat" the building per se but need to keep it from freezing and heat the floors enough that they dry fairly quickly.

Any ideas?

WRL

In-floor hydronic radiant heat is the only way to go unless you qualify for reduced farm rate electric.
Use PEX tubing, I prerfer Wirsbo, a hot water heater and circulating pump. If you use an anti freeze, be sure it is for boilers. In most cases, it should not be needed.
 
In floor hydronic works great. I use it in my large garage/shop with indoor dog houses. My advice is to talk with a heating contractor and a concrete contractor in your area. Someone must be familiar with it. Work with someone experienced. Some concrete contractors would rather not work with the stuff. I do not heat my five outdoor runs with it because I thought it would cost too much to heat in our winters and heating the indoor houses is enough. My system uses and mini-electric boiler on an "off-peak" plan not a water heater. As long as you put in the tubing now, you have many heating options including a hot water heater and a gas or electric or wood boiler. I would be wary of the electric wires that can be used in floors. I had that installed in my house and it went bad and once that happens you are out of options. I am sure that some of that stuff works well for small interior jobs, but I would have to do a bunch of research to be convinced that it would work well outside in a colder climate.
 
Put in radiant floor with my new pole barn / kennel and love it. Used a foil/foam/foil insulation under pad with a commercial water heater and pumps with a glycol, water mix. I also used a wire mesh to tie tubing to which serves two purposes, holds tube down when concrete is poured and helps heat raidiate away from tubing. If I ever move I'll do the same again.
 
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