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7pntail

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I got some general info today, and would like to hear from those of you who have one. My scenario is a pit bull that scales six foot fences and has roamed the hood for quite some time. I assume the training procedure is to collar condition to "here" then install e fence and hope the "Hobo" doesn't blow through it. My biggest question, is the distance for installation--can it be on the ground, or is the top of the fence a better fit?

Any information would help me make an informed decision.

Thanks, John
 
For a stubborn dog that may run through it, use the wireless system that keeps getting them for X amount of time before shutting off. Basically, it is a constant "on" collar that is switched off by the radio field. Leaving the field lets the collar stimulate so the dog can't run through the barrier. I had dog that would run through the barrier and went to the radio wireless fence and he tried it only to make an arc about 30 yrds out and come back to safety. One or two more tries and it was not a problem....

they do create CC issues and a heightened sense of E to space that can create problems in force training - IMO.
 
The gizmo didn't workout for one of my dogs.

When I moved to my current house, the back yard was fenced. The length of the back of my yard was 6 foot stockade. The front and sides were 3-rail split rail fence with wire mesh solidly secured to the wood fence.

Jumping the fence was no problem for my female Drahthaar. So, I decided to get an Innotek fence. I did it the easy way and staple the wire to the underside of the top rail. The claim was that the fence had "Run-Through Prevention".
Run-Through Prevention – This INNOTEK® system includes a unique "run-through" prevention so that your dog cannot escape the pet fencing field without activating a strong stimulation. The collar automatically increases the stimulation when your dog continues more than 1/3 of the way through the pet fencing field, regardless of the trans- mitter stimulation level setting. For example, if the signal is detected 12 feet from the wire and your dog enters the pet fencing field, this feature is activated when he is approxi- mately 8 feet from the wire. At this point, your dog auto- matically receives the highest level of stimulation.​

The audible alarm on the collar went off about 12 feet back from the fence. It didn't matter. The dog would still jump the fence if it saw a squirrel or groundhog in the neighbor's yard. When I caught my dog in the neighbor's yard and explained to her that I wasn't happy, she learned to jump back into our yard (taking the hit from the collar again) before I got to her.

The thing was cranked up to full power. It was absolutely secure to her neck. My kids told me that sometimes she would vocalize the fact that she was taking the hit. It didn't matter. It didn't stop her if there was something she really wanted to get.

She never did it if I was in the back yard. But, once, she didn't know that I was in the front yard and she jumped back over once she saw me. She figured that if she was in our yard, I couldn't correct her. She was right.

The solution? I replaced the split rail fence with vertical 5 foot picket fence. The dog couldn't see as easily through the fence and never tried to jump it.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
The gizmo didn't workout for one of my dogs.

When I moved to my current house, the back yard was fenced. The length of the back of my yard was 6 foot stockade. The front and sides were 3-rail split rail fence with wire mesh solidly secured to the wood fence.

Jumping the fence was no problem for my female Drahthaar. So, I decided to get an Innotek fence. I did it the easy way and staple the wire to the underside of the top rail. The claim was that the fence had "Run-Through Prevention".
Run-Through Prevention – This INNOTEK® system includes a unique "run-through" prevention so that your dog cannot escape the pet fencing field without activating a strong stimulation. The collar automatically increases the stimulation when your dog continues more than 1/3 of the way through the pet fencing field, regardless of the trans- mitter stimulation level setting. For example, if the signal is detected 12 feet from the wire and your dog enters the pet fencing field, this feature is activated when he is approxi- mately 8 feet from the wire. At this point, your dog auto- matically receives the highest level of stimulation.​

The audible alarm on the collar went off about 12 feet back from the fence. It didn't matter. The dog would still jump the fence if it saw a squirrel or groundhog in the neighbor's yard. When I caught my dog in the neighbor's yard and explained to her that I wasn't happy, she learned to jump back into our yard (taking the hit from the collar again) before I got to her.

The thing was cranked up to full power. It was absolutely secure to her neck. My kids told me that sometimes she would vocalize the fact that she was taking the hit. It didn't matter. It didn't stop her if there was something she really wanted to get.

She never did it if I was in the back yard. But, once, she didn't know that I was in the front yard and she jumped back over once she saw me. She figured that if she was in our yard, I couldn't correct her. She was right.

The solution? I replaced the split rail fence with vertical 5 foot picket fence. The dog couldn't see as easily through the fence and never tried to jump it.




Makes sense and THANK YOU BOTH. Here is a picture of one section of the fence in question--have about 3/4 of an acre of it. Most of it has flora but not this section, and that is his launch point. Good insights---don't like gizmo's. I do think I might tag team a gizmo with a black hole fence(tarp perhaps). Again thanks, and would love to hear more thoughts.

Take care, John





Image
 
Well, we put one in at the wife's insistence...i.e. condition of gettin' anudder dawg...

Innotek as well. I took a month (longer that Innotek tells ya) of walking him around the perimeter with the collar on and him on a leash. Every time he got to the tone, you turn and run into the safety of the yard. Then when you put the active collar prongs in and train with the real thing, you repeat the same thing except they get a zap before running back to the safety of the yard. Then you leave the flags up for another month or so, then every week after that take out every other flag 'till they're gone. He was trained this way at about 6 months old.

When I take him for a walk, we go down the driveway to the wire, he sits, I stand there and point at the wire crossing the drive, say 'Bzzzzzzzzzt' like I'm some magician turning it off for him to cross, and he's off like a rocket for our walk.I bet its been 6 months since he's even had the collar on.

My lab was terrible about staying home before the fence, now he never leaves the yard...and I don't even have the efence collar on him. YMMV
 
I have stubborn dog coller made by pet safe, I think they work well. I have the wire, wire tied to a barbed wire fence. These collers go from level 1 to level 5 if the dog doesn't get out of the fm field. The collers also vibrate and beep, I have 6 none of my dogs will run thru them. The collers on the receivers are junk, you have put good collers on the receivers boxes.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Again thank you . Will give it a try. will do cc work next week. I think it it could work! Appreciate your experience.

Take care, John
 
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