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Seabass77

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Hello all,
I have a deposit down on a pup that should be coming home sometime in May. I have been doing research on this site and there is a tremendous amount of information available. The difficulty I am running into is that most information seems geared toward training a dog for competition or trials.

I am looking for just a meat retriever. I hunt 5 -15 times per year, mostly waterfowl, a little upland and the rest of the time is family time.
I have the Hillman’s training a retriever puppy at home, how much further will I need to go from there? Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Joe
 
If you want an obedient dog that will retrieve for you, the beginning of the process to get there is pretty much the same as the beginning of the process to build a hunt test or field trial dog, and the programs will work for both.

I'd just start following one of the programs and stop when you feel like you've gotten your dog to the point where you're satisfied. The benefit of taking that approach is that when you decide you want to teach your dog more, or that you do want to run hunt tests etc, you'll have a good foundation to build on.

I'd go through Hillman's program - since you have it, and when you get toward the end of it, then decide where you want to go from there.
 
My advice is to use one of the programs available. Training is training and the dog won't care what it is being trained to do. Option B is to do basics, force fetch and obedience then fill your pockets with rocks before you get to the duck blind.
 
I really cant think of one aspect of training for ht or ft that is not applicable to training for the duck blind. Granted, most waterfowlers don't have the need to marking 300-400 yd downed birds or running a 350yd cold blind. However, the line manners, handling, marking skills etc all translate to the waterfowl retriever. Sounds like your on the right track already with Hillmans DVD. I'm guessing once you start getting into it, you'll want to really see how far you and the pup can really go. Good luck and have fun.
 
My advice is to use one of the programs available. Training is training and the dog won't care what it is being trained to do. Option B is to do basics, force fetch and obedience then fill your pockets with rocks before you get to the duck blind.
HAHAHAHAHAHA, Pretty epic..... Rocks are way cheaper than shells.

Everything stated above is very very true.
Ex;
Your dog is marking a bird on the far right spread and your buddies down two on the extreme left. Would you not want a dog to be able to run a line for x number of yards and grab them two without throwing rocks or shells?
In all honesty it really only takes 20-30min a day or every couple days to achieve this....

Follow Hillman, most of us have used then find a program that works for you, I think Fowl Dawgs is the cheapest and is a good one.... I used it for a few weeks before switching over to Lardy. I just like the ways Mike explains everthing in a group setting and you get to here people asking questions.
 
My advice is to use one of the programs available. Training is training and the dog won't care what it is being trained to do. Option B is to do basics, force fetch and obedience then fill your pockets with rocks before you get to the duck blind.
mark,
i am not too sure about the need for the basics, force fetch and obedience part of your "option b", but i do thank you for endorsing one key element of my soon to be released training dvd! "chunkin' rocks for retrievers" available in spring 2013.
 
I wonder if we could patent a Retriever Handler Flagged Rock Chucker. It would accurately launch a flagged rock on a high arching trajectory with a big (biodegradable) flag that would land on the downed bird. It would then squeal, quack, whistle, kick, flash, and splash and generally make a fuss until the dog (wearing a sensor attached to his collar) got near enough, at which time it would turn off, sink under the water and swim itself back to the blind. The dog would then see the downed bird, and return it. Would you endorse that in your book Roseberry?
 
Hello all,
I have a deposit down on a pup that should be coming home sometime in May. I have been doing research on this site and there is a tremendous amount of information available. The difficulty I am running into is that most information seems geared toward training a dog for competition or trials.

I am looking for just a meat retriever. I hunt 5 -15 times per year, mostly waterfowl, a little upland and the rest of the time is family time.
I have the Hillman’s training a retriever puppy at home, how much further will I need to go from there? Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Joe
Sounds like the same place I was at 3.5 years ago, Now I have 4 Labs run in every Hunt Test I can manage to get too, so my advice would be, beings you already have Hillmans puppy video go get Chris Akins Duck Dog Basics 1 & 2 Cost you about $50 for both and see where you are at, in say 6 months. At which time if the Retriever bug has bit you, buy one of the more extensive training programs Lardy, Evans, Stawski and there are others. Good Luck
 
mark,
i am not too sure about the need for the basics, force fetch and obedience part of your "option b", but i do thank you for endorsing one key element of my soon to be released training dvd! "chunkin' rocks for retrievers" available in spring 2013.
Just be sure to give me credit as one of the innovative pioneers of this great training technique. You can even put me on the cover in exchange for a small portion of the proceeds.

I remember having a lot more time and extra money when I was using this training program:p
 
Sounds like the same place I was at 3.5 years ago, Now I have 4 Labs run in every Hunt Test I can manage to get too, so my advice would be, beings you already have Hillmans puppy video go get Chris Akins Duck Dog Basics 1 & 2 Cost you about $50 for both and see where you are at, in say 6 months. At which time if the Retriever bug has bit you, buy one of the more extensive training programs Lardy, Evans, Stawski and there are others. Good Luck
Akins Duck Dog videos will work well for your situation. I would also get with a nearby training group or AKC/HRC club and participate. You and your dog will benefit if it is only a meat dog. By way, in almost all meat dogs is a dog that would like to be running HT's.
 
I will tell you this,I cant stand the average guide dog that breaks.I have been all over with my past dogs and killed countless birds with control.If it takes you to put the gun down and take care of the dog do it!It will be the most rewarding thing in the end.Force fetch is for sure and blind work a must in my book.it does take experience in the blind but nothing worse then a dog that breaks on every shot.I used to tell the guides leave those dogs at home!I'm working on another now.
 
"Meat Dog"......... I hear this a lot, What is exactly is a Meat Dog ?
A dog that is used strictly for hunting.
Some use this as a derogatory term to mean a dog with little or no training.
The term, most likely goes back to the market hunters days, when a dog was one of his most valuable assests. A dog that would consistently bring back the meat.
A true "Meat Dog" is not a untrained dog, but a trained dog that does not play dog games.
 
A dog that is used strictly for hunting.
Some use this as a derogatory term to mean a dog with little or no training.
The term, most likely goes back to the market hunters days, when a dog was one of his most valuable assests. A dog that would consistently bring back the meat.
A true "Meat Dog" is not a untrained dog, but a trained dog that does not play dog games.
Good job. They do exist.
 
A dog that is used strictly for hunting.
Some use this as a derogatory term to mean a dog with little or no training.
The term, most likely goes back to the market hunters days, when a dog was one of his most valuable assests. A dog that would consistently bring back the meat.
A true "Meat Dog" is not a untrained dog, but a trained dog that does not play dog games.
Well said. I've got one of those and he's as valueble as my gun.
 
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