So gonna start working in some ladder blinds one question I have is if the dog looses the line should a "sit" "recall" and restart happen or would you "sit" and cast "back" in the appropriate direction? Just want to have my ducks lined in a row before I start. I'm using building a retriever for my drills and it has solutions but doesn't really go over if you should recall a line break or recast.
Ladder blinds
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So gonna start working in some ladder blinds one question I have is if the dog looses the line should a "sit" "recall" and restart happen or would you "sit" and cast "back" in the appropriate direction? Just want to have my ducks lined in a row before I start. I'm using building a retriever for my drills and it has solutions but doesn't really go over if you should recall a line break or recast.
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IMO this drill teaches the dog to run blinds with his nose to the ground. After all, he's been rewarded with a bumper every few yards. Running blinds with his nose to the ground is a very bad habit.
Much better to start at the end by identifying a pile of bumpers and work back from there. Start at 25 yards or so. Toss a bumper on the pile, send dog on name. Receive dog in front finish, cast to pile on "back" back up 10-20 yards to receive dog for next send. Repeat as you move back to desired distance. This way the dog has no expectation of finding bumpers along the route, is not affected by scent along the way, and has the expectation that bumpers are at the end of the field.
Either way you choose to proceed, recalling a dog crushes momentum. You are trying to establish or build momentum. Don't recall unless you get a really flagrant flare on the initial line. Like if dog pointed at 12:00 and dog's initial line is to 3:00, recall and move up and/or reidentify the pile or line.
Much better to start at the end by identifying a pile of bumpers and work back from there. Start at 25 yards or so. Toss a bumper on the pile, send dog on name. Receive dog in front finish, cast to pile on "back" back up 10-20 yards to receive dog for next send. Repeat as you move back to desired distance. This way the dog has no expectation of finding bumpers along the route, is not affected by scent along the way, and has the expectation that bumpers are at the end of the field.
Either way you choose to proceed, recalling a dog crushes momentum. You are trying to establish or build momentum. Don't recall unless you get a really flagrant flare on the initial line. Like if dog pointed at 12:00 and dog's initial line is to 3:00, recall and move up and/or reidentify the pile or line.
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Makes sense but I've been working a back pile for awhile now and I'm up too 100yd backs but his line sometimes has a slight curve out and back in its not anything crazy just a yard or so off line then back on line when closer to pile. I was reading that the blind ladder helps with keeping a dog on line.
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and your concern is what again ??
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As cptn jack mentioned, the drill is fairly useless. I think anyway. It is pretty dated and training methods have improved.
In your FTP - did you force en route? If so, the slight flare may be the result of that force.
Heck - I don't know any people that can walk a 'perfect' line for 100 yds. LOL
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What "Modern" training program are you using?
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This (a yard or so off line) is a non-issue. Suggest moving on to your next step. If you a true flare pops up as you move forward, just back up to where you are and address it. For slight flares, I move up a bit, and sometimes have forced through the flare to straighten it up. For a bigger flare, I'll set a chair at the point of the flare. This will cause the dig to either stay on line or, more likely, to flare wider, at which point you can recall or maybe recall with a nick.
These are just ideas for reference, I don't think your dog needs this right now.
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Building a retriever--Drills and More is out of date? Im not following a specific "modern" training program at this time i have my own program i used on my prevoius dog that i got from a pro, but since then i have aquired a lot more literature and knowledge on different drills and techniques i can use. My pup is the testing type that required me to use a lot of different methods. idk how we got to this topic lol i was just curios to know more about ladder blinds and what to do on specific line break. I was thinking of using this drill on a flat field with 6 bumpers spread 15-20yds apart in a straight line. so the first few from starting point would be visible and as he progressed further to each one he would see the next building confidence in the line and knowing that if he keeps going back straight he will find another. Its just the begginer level not hiding them in tall grass and making him hunt, this is what the book says to do to make it easier for the pup to understand.
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I've done that and it can work. Do what works for your dog, don't sweat the small stuff.
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Actually, handling the dog is the way to keep them on line en-route to the blind. WAG isn't a substitute for an actual training program and neither is drills.
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This^^^^^^^
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WAG? The program I'm using is just like any other program it has a set timeline of what to train and what fundamentals that need to be instilled and at what time. It's not all very detailed because it was hand written and just for getting a pup ready to be a bird dog. So it's probably missing a lot of finesse but it works, I just like to read and see different ways you can teach something, there is a million ways to crack open a pecan but does that mean you should Have to follow a specific method or try different ones that work too?
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Keep in mind that some ways the pecan comes out whole, and some ways it comes out in pieces. You have past experience that may allow you to piece together a program or rather add to the program you're following, but for most new trainers, it just leads to a confused dog and frustrated handler. Good luck.
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Ah Grasshoppa, programs don't have timelines. It's done when it's done and not a minute sooner or later.
WAG; Wild Ass Guess
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haha figured, and timeline as in a guesstimate of where a pup should be at roughly, I know they all learn at different speeds and some can be slower and some faster. Guess I should just call it a schedule that goes in order starting from the basics. Also I didn't make the program this was given to me by a friends father that has trained duck dogs for over 20yrs
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i enjoy your wisdom lol in all your post
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But this is your duck dog and your duck dog is relying on you.
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