What is the best way to handle a very fast dog? She seems to run by everything wont slow down always at warp speed factor off the scale. I have tried to wear her down when I do brain will kick in and her breeding and talents will really start to show what she is capable off. She is 13 months old.
speed
Brandi Weinman
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What is the best way to handle a very fast dog? She seems to run by everything wont slow down always at warp speed factor off the scale. I have tried to wear her down when I do brain will kick in and her breeding and talents will really start to show what she is capable off. She is 13 months old.
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does she run past a duck? how far are the marks? are they tossed from a tosser or a real live person out in the field? how about cover?
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won't run past a bird when shot but put a mark out or working on long pile she will run past turn around and pick up went back reinforced force fetching and basic's and it seems she gets more cranked up if use the collar on her. Lately if she does it correctly that is all she gets and i make her sit alot. She seems to let her feet to the work not use her head.
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a little fish hook is to be expected. how far past and run back? lenght of the dog past or to the end of the field past?
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It all depends how amped up she is that day lets say you better have whistle in mouth and be ready to blow also the longer marks she way better just 30 to 40 yards is the ones she blows by.
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She sounds enthusiastic!
Would say there's some things to factor in as far as where your dog is in training,..level-wise, in terms of being able to Push, Pull, or Stop her.
To go a no- pressure route with it, we sometimes do the same thing for over- running the handler on a return. The assistant will toss a mark close to a barrier, (such as a fence), starting at around 8-10 yds., and then shorten it up.
But it surely depends on the particulars, and not to become a substitute for fundamental basics in place, in order to Stop the dog with some control.
Also like to challenge the speed with some obstacles for the dog to negotiate enroute, as well as on a return with some of the more "challenging" Singles.
Would say there's some things to factor in as far as where your dog is in training,..level-wise, in terms of being able to Push, Pull, or Stop her.
To go a no- pressure route with it, we sometimes do the same thing for over- running the handler on a return. The assistant will toss a mark close to a barrier, (such as a fence), starting at around 8-10 yds., and then shorten it up.
But it surely depends on the particulars, and not to become a substitute for fundamental basics in place, in order to Stop the dog with some control.
Also like to challenge the speed with some obstacles for the dog to negotiate enroute, as well as on a return with some of the more "challenging" Singles.
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As far as pushing or putting pressure on her this really takes it with stride and keeps going but will learn from her mistakes. I sent this dog to a trainer for 3 or 4 months, I hope my expations are not too high with this dog. Trainer said half the problem is me the handler so I am learning to handle a very high energy dog with different handling methods. I am used to dogs devolping their enthusiam as we train. This dog really goes ie. whisper commands when at heel and release she really responds so you have to watch your voice inflections in your commands been tough none the least . I mean slow way down even sometimes not enough.
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May be I don't understand your comments, but wouldn't think FF has anything to with your issue. To progress this type of training, it's best to do so with the same path/set-up as where you did pile work. The dog will know the destination & that there is something there to retrieve. Also remember that the shorter the distance, the better the control (add distance with success). Run a couple of blinds to the pile to let the dog know there is something to retrieve there. Then add a thrown bird half way to the pile. No your dog off the mark, pick up the blind (that the dog is already familar with), then pick-up the mark. There are several phases or advancements to this drill (Evan Graham has a "4-phase" drill) for this purpose (if I understand your issue).
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as the sportscaster Dan Patrick says "...you can't stop him...you can only hope to contain him...", use caution with a fast dog, you will have to anticipate quicker, even before you go to the line...when Star was young and before her TPLO injury she was as fast as they came. She left Clint with very little room for error when it came to decision making time,usually sent her with a whistle already clenched in his teeth..
Slowing down a fast dog may not give you the dog you want, they arent like a car where you can adjust speeds on the throttle..quite a few old time trainers that turned speed demons into slow pigs and most lived to regret it
Slowing down a fast dog may not give you the dog you want, they arent like a car where you can adjust speeds on the throttle..quite a few old time trainers that turned speed demons into slow pigs and most lived to regret it
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In birds, while your not going to slow them down it helps if you can turn on the brain to keep up. We sort've solved this with one of the rockets, by running a lot of in birds, then random changing the position of the throw, 45in, straight over, 45 back etc. the dog learned to check back. He still overruns but now at least it's not by 50 yrds 
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In birds she don't overrun she nails them almost all the time, I know on the bumbers I think she thinks it is a game almost with the bumbers put birds in front all business. Also I took her guiding last year to get experience did very well to say the least. Is it wrong to hunt pheasants with a dog you hope you can run senior hunt test and possible masters with?
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I am starting to wonder the same thing about my new puppy. He is 14 weeks and is as fast as lightning. It is unbelievable how quick he is. Every time he does a mark, he ends up ___ over tea kettle trying to slow himself, and then on the return I have had him run full bore right into my shins... He looked up at me like WTF WAS THAT!?!?!?!
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My other lab does samething, he clobbered me so bad one day,my fault. I was picking up the dummiesand he came back samcked me in the head. Knocked me so hard I seen stars for a couple of minutes. He likes to run right at me plants about 3 feet in front of me and spins to heel in one motion. I buckle my knees at him when he does this so he dont slam me and knock me back so that slows him down a little.
Hi Brandi,
I have two that can travel at about Mach II on a calm day. I wouldn't try to slow them down I would recommend stepping up your reaction time to handle them quicker. Like the jitterbug versus a waltz. It takes a little time (it did for me) but it is worth it when you get on time with them. 13 months is still young and if you step up your timing you will have a great time running a dog that goes hell for leather every time out of the gate.
I have two that can travel at about Mach II on a calm day. I wouldn't try to slow them down I would recommend stepping up your reaction time to handle them quicker. Like the jitterbug versus a waltz. It takes a little time (it did for me) but it is worth it when you get on time with them. 13 months is still young and if you step up your timing you will have a great time running a dog that goes hell for leather every time out of the gate.
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Ah yes, speakly quietly to the dog does wonders. I've been working with a trainer, he is telling and showing me the samething that is working very good. Also making sure that I give my commands very camly don't get excited because that just cranks up the dog more. I say my commands so quite that people next to me can barely hear me giving the commands to the dog. This works with this dog some dogs you have get more excited but you will get more out dogs in general speaking very softly they just plain respond.
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