I have a 14 month old BLF that has been through FF, and doing very well on single T now. I am following Hillman's program. I also have Graham's dvds. There are several drills mentioned to help transition to blind retrieves. I am wondering if any are better than the other? What are your favorite drills for this progression?
Transition to Blind Retrieves
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kcbullets
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I have a 14 month old BLF that has been through FF, and doing very well on single T now. I am following Hillman's program. I also have Graham's dvds. There are several drills mentioned to help transition to blind retrieves. I am wondering if any are better than the other? What are your favorite drills for this progression?
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I have the Lardy TRT series and SmartWorks. I like both. Over the years, I've kinda created my own system. I get through TT, Swim-By and Pattern Blinds with diversions then my five point drill - modified form of a "9 Point Drill" I learned from a pro, then No-No Drills, then some walking baseball to get more over when giving overs, and the wagon wheel lining drill for lining and push - pull at the line before I ever run the first true cold blind. Even then...the first blinds are not true cold blinds as I usually walk the pup out and "pepper" an area with bumpers and go back to the line and send. After that, three peats of the same blind concept where the first is a walk-out and the next two are cold.
I'm sure everyone has their own method, but blinds are all about confidence, team work, and change of direction when whistle stopped. Maybe I am overkilling IDK, but it works well for me and I like for the pup to be a confident blind runner before kicking pup off on his first real-world cold blind.
I'm sure everyone has their own method, but blinds are all about confidence, team work, and change of direction when whistle stopped. Maybe I am overkilling IDK, but it works well for me and I like for the pup to be a confident blind runner before kicking pup off on his first real-world cold blind.
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My feeling is that the main thing is to build confidence. I have used these in my drills: pattern blinds, sight blinds, bucket and white stake blinds, bumper lean to, walk around blinds, dummy string blinds---all of these to help the dog understand that he will always find something at the end. I particularly like the walk around blinds and dummy string blinds because of the high success rate I have had with these but I still use them all.
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Well here is my favorite link... 
http://dannyfarmer.com/dannyfarmer..../dannyfarmer.com/Training_Tips_files/Starting Cold Blinds by Danny Farmer_1.pdf
But again.... don't mix programs..
How did Hillman and Graham compare with FF?
Swim by?
http://dannyfarmer.com/dannyfarmer..../dannyfarmer.com/Training_Tips_files/Starting Cold Blinds by Danny Farmer_1.pdf
But again.... don't mix programs..
How did Hillman and Graham compare with FF?
Swim by?
Graham uses the traditional ear pinch method and Hillman does not. Hillman uses completely different method. My lab was FF by someone else, utilizing Lardy's method which I believe is same or similar to Graham. When I got her I began orientation get her to Hillman's methods, to include Traffic Cop. Also used Hillman's basic handling drill for casting and single T.
Ok...
So,,the first paragraph from the link I posted..
Before I even consider starting a young dog on blinds I make sure there is a very solid foundation in the dog's basic training. This means he is well force broke, collar conditioned and has spent a long time mastering the double-T. He should be forced from your side, forced en route to the back pile and casting to two sets of overs. The first thing I do after completing the double-T is to teach the dog handling and casting wagon wheel. This is a drill with eight bumpers spread out like a clock. You first teach the dog to line each of the bumpers. The distance here is about an easy toss of a small white bumper away from the center point of the clock. Use white bumpers in short grass so the bumpers are easily visible to the dog. Work very hard to teach the dog to heel both clockwise and counterclockwise. Be very precise is staying exactly on your center pivot point. This will force you to make the dog heel with you, move with you, not you moving to the dog.
The BOLD is only IF there is a very solid foundation in the dogs basics..
Are you certain the FF ,CC and T (TT) has been mastered?? What about swim by?
The two wagon wheels are useful tools and drills.. Do these BEFORE you run blinds..
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If your dog has been through FF and doing well on single T then You are doing well with the 14 month old . (What does the T DRILL mean to you or the dog? or better , what does the T teach your dog?) ...Hmmm?
Why not stick to one program ?
Several drills on transition may not be right for you or your dog (at this time) .?
...
Anyhow, 'Gooser' ..The only reference a dog has on a 100% cold blind (that would be one where the dog has never been before and there is no foot scent from human or dog previous to that place and there is no bird boy or hide or marker or pole or any shot etc) .The only reference the dog has on a blind is the cues and triggers conditioned in training that the dog 'got the retrieve' with this process. That's the transition (imo) ..Well , the dog just keeps on truckin ,if it don't hear the stop whistle it must be on the right line ?
ps. Had two beers tonight in celebration of a youngster at 9 months going out like a train . Nice to see.
I am certain FF, CC, and T are solid. I've started on 7 bumper lining drills and getting much better by the session. I plan to rewatch Hillman's video. I don't recall him doing the TT, however I may be mistaking. I realize tHere are several drills leading up to blind retrieves. I was curious on which ones seem to work best. I am new to retriever training and realize all dogs are different. I'm continually in the learning mode. Appreciate all the replies.
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Yea , well the T and TT Has nothing to do with retrieving . It has everything to do with he collar . But You knew that anyway right .?
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I was Amish for a long time. I did these drills with my non-collar dogs. It is true that today these drills are usually done by someone who uses an e-collar, but it is not a requirement by any means.
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True, but if one is following a program then perhaps it is .
You are wrong sir.
Possible you are sampling a bit too much of the local Whisky?
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Yeah, this is not at all true. T and TT are where a dog is introduced to handling/taking casts on a larger scale after 3-handed casting and/or mini-T. If you think they are only about the collar, you are doing it wrong. The last dog I put through T-work, I never had to use the collar one time. He always gave me a good sit and gave me the correct cast > 90% of the time. Not sure if you really believe the above, or are just stirring the pot. Neither would surprise me.
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Been a long time since I have been on the T. I follow Lardy and he reintroduces force to the back pile a couple of times in the beginning. But that's about it.
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